History when seeped in scandal is irresistible and when the relics of these times and stories are in your backyard so to speak its all the more alluring.
I had been to Kiangazi House many years ago and to its sister lodge and somewhat more famous lodge, Chui Lodge, as well a few years ago. However my second visit to the Kiangazi House in the Oserian sanctuary in Naivasha was different as it has since been refurbished and in the intervening years I had read a book called the White Mischief by James Fox.
Having read White Mischief my experience at the lodge was enhanced. The book extensively covers the trial of Lord Broughton who was accused (and acquitted) of murdering Lord Errol, his wife’s lover. The backdrop of the book describes the lives and escapades of the “Happy Valley” set who wiled away their days in a semi inebriated daze. Naivasha was a favourite for the Happy Valley set to do just that in pre-independent Kenya
Kiangazi House is located in the Oserian Wildlife Sanctuary which borders Lake Naivasha and its little sister lake Oloidien. On this land is also where Djinn Palace was built (legend has it the name comes from the copious amounts of gin that was drunk there). Indeed this was the house that once belonged to Diana Delamere (as she later was known due to her marriage to Lord Delamere), who was the lady at the centre of the affair that led to the murder of Lord Errol. The house was also the setting of many parties that were frequented by the “Happy Valley lot” and which on many occasions included the protagonists of White Mischief. The current owners of the conservancy, the Zwagers reside there now after painstakingly rebuilding and renovating the house. I did take a long shot and asked the staff if I could visit the house, but of course I was politely refused.
Kiangazi House is a boutique hotel with the three double ensuite rooms in the main house and four ensuite rooms detached from the main house. The main house, where I stayed is homely and very comfortable with a well stocked bar, dining room and library/TV room, some rooms with four-poster beds and fresh cut roses creating a romantically colonial feel. The magnificent furniture, carved from the Leleshwa tree root, has been hand crafted in their workshop. There are three double rooms in the main house and a further two doubles close to the swimming pool.There is also a good sized pool for guests to enjoy.
A full board menu where the price per person includes three meals, house wines and beer. The meals are well thought out with clearly a lot of effort put into each course. Compared to other houses/lodges in Naivasha, this lodge particularly stands out for the meals as it is not the run of the mill meals of pizza and pasta that are synonymous of many of the nearby places in Naivasha. However, if you request for these options I am certain the staff will be most obliging. The vegetarians in my group did not feel shortchanged in the slightest and the Chef and team were most accommodating with any request.
Another special aspect of this house is that you can take a game ride in the conservancy in one of their four wheeled drive cars. If you are lucky you may spot their only lion who, quite literally, is king there. A sundowner can also be arranged in their conservancy which, as you sip, you almost forget you are part of a flower farm but could quite easily be in one of the more popular national parks like the Maasai Mara.
For a refurbished lodge, I felt that some of the communal areas such as the verandah seemed a little worn out and could do with upgrading, but it didn’t take away from the very homely feel of the location. It really is a getaway with wifi available only in certain sections of the house, if you really need it, but my advise is to take the time out and enjoy your surroundings.
Naivasha in recent years has seen an influx of conference style hotels. Kiangazi House is probably one of the best accommodations in the area if you’re looking for a small compact hotel with commendable service. What really stood out for me is that it’s the only place in Naivasha where you can take a game drive. It’s a charming homely place with a wistful air about it of colonial times gone by, and a great family getaway location with children. My top tips? Book your stay in the Main House and arrange for unforgettable sundowners.
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