So, has hanging out with Gorillas been on your bucket list for a while? Are you wondering just how you are going to be able to achieve this lifelong dream of trekking through a forest to take some time to hang out with these majestic primates but do not have the slightest idea where to start?
Here goes! I recently had the pleasure of experiencing magical moments with the Mountain Gorillas in Virunga, Rwanda and I am so excited to be able to share this practical guide with all of you savvy female travellers!
What do you need to know before you go? Indeed, this is a once in a lifetime trek, and I know that the cost of the permit isn’t exactly pocket change, but I promise you it is worth every cent to get to experience an hour with these gentle giants. Although Mountain Gorillas are found in Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, they all reside on different sides of the same mountain chain known as the Virungas and the easiest access point is through Rwanda.
Travel and Accommodation Logistics
You will fly into the capital city Kigali, which has a pretty decent airport and is served by almost all international airlines. It is possible to check into one of the many luxury hotels in Kigali and take a day trip to see the Gorillas if you are short on time, but my top tip is to set aside a day or two and stay in the Virunga area. There are a couple of lodges that you can choose from, ranging from luxury to rustic, depending on the experience you are going for.
The trekking permits cost USD 300 per day for East African Citizens, USD 450 per day for a foreign resident in East Africa, and USD 750 per day for non – residents. These permits are limited to a mere 80 per day and are sold on a first come, first served basis and grant you one hour with the Gorillas. Sighting is guaranteed, however the fine print here is the trek itself: it all depends on how deep in the jungle the primates are on that day and how long your trek takes for you to spot them. There are a number of good travel agents that can make your travel arrangements, including obtaining the permits to make things a little less stressful.
What to expect the morning of the trek
Your day starts at the Volcanoes National Park Headquarters in Kinigi at 7am, and if you are anything like me and not a morning person, it is really much easier to spend the night before in the environs of the Virunga rather than wake up at 4 am and travel up from Kigali! The starting point of your trek isn’t the headquarters as this is simply the point where you will be “sized up” by the rangers based on what they presume are your fitness levels and then placed into a group of between 8-10 trekkers and allocated a gorilla family to trek with. No doubt you will have done some research and may have a specific family in mind, that you want to see. My top tip for you is to pass this request to the rangers through your driver and you may just get lucky.
While at HQ, you can indulge in a cup of hot tea or coffee (complimentary), use the incredibly fast Wi-Fi and watch the Intore dancers as they beat their drums, sing and get you in the mood for what you are about to experience. The loos are modernised and clean, so be sure to use it before you go. I would also recommend that you hire some gaiters which are available here at USD 5 a pair, from one of the many sellers that will convince you that you need them and once on the trek, you will be quite thankful that you ceded to their pleas. As soon as you have been allocated into a family, you are taken by your guide to the specific area of the headquarters designated for your group, introduced to your team members and your guide, and briefed about your band, before you bundle back into your jeep and drive to the actual trekking start.
The trek
Your starting point will depend on the family you are allocated to, and the specific volcano they inhabit. Karsimbi is the furthest volcano and the groups that live on its slopes take almost 8 hours to hike to! Porters may be hired from trek bases and they are worth their weight in gold on the actual trail. Sturdy hiking sticks are provided at base camp at no cost.
The trekking trail begins on the lower mountain slopes, taking you on a gentle incline through community farm land, amidst beautiful pyrethrum and potato fields until the boundary wall that separates the jungle from the farms. If you are fit as a fiddle then this will be an easy walk, but if fitness isn’t your forte then don’t fret, I promise you that this is a “doable” trek. The initial part of the trek takes about an hour (could be less) depending on the fitness level of your group, and the muscle leg work begins once you climb over the wall, and start the steep ascent up the slopes of the volcano in search of your family. Before you start the ascent, your guide will give you a briefing about what to expect once the Gorillas are spotted and how to behave amongst them.
The terrain is perhaps what makes the trek a little tough. When you start ascending the volcano you are deep in the jungle with vines and roots intertwined on the earth floor, and stinging nettles everywhere. Once you start to make your way to your family, you are off any kind of trail and rely solely on the trackers and your guide for direction. The trackers will literally hack through the thick forest to get to where the Gorillas are, completely exhilarating as you step closer and closer to this once in a lifetime experience.
The porters, thank God for the porters! Although they take the weight off your shoulders by carrying your daypack throughout the trek – on the mountain, they help you climb up the steep trail by giving you a hand.
Once you are close to your family, you leave all your belongings (except your camera) with the porters who will take it to the end of the trek where they will be waiting for you.
My Experience with The Umubano Group
I was allocated the Umubano Group which has 13 members in all: 3 Silverbacks, a baby, black backs, juveniles and females, which live on one of the steepest volcanoes known as Mt. Bisoke; a 20 minute drive away from the headquarters. When we arrived, the largest Silverback was having a snooze in the sunshine, the females were eating, and lounging in a canopy, and the other 2 Silverbacks and black backs were lazing. The baby was swinging from branch to branch and just having fun. The sight is overwhelming, and I had mixed feelings of excitement, anxiety and awe all in one. You try your best to stick to the 7 metre rule, but the Gorillas don’t t know any better and will constantly breach this but your guide will know exactly what sounds to make to comfort the Gorillas and will tell you what to do every step of the way. A little juvenile came and hugged my leg. I forgot to breathe for a brief moment! The hour that you spend with your family flies by and is over before you know it.
My top tips:
- Eat a hearty dinner the night before, because you may not be able to eat very much at breakfast and you need the energy for the trek.
- Get yourself a good pair of gardening gloves. You will need them to push past the stinging nettles once you are off the trail and trekking to your family.
- Wear long sleeve t-shirts (not too thick) and thick pants to protect yourself from the stinging nettles, and a good pair of hiking shoes. The terrain can be tough in places and shoes with a good grip are a must
- Spray yourself liberally with a strong insect repellent before getting into the jungle, as you will not be allowed to do this once you are on the trek.
- The gaiters are well worth it to protect your shins from the nettles and the red ants from climbing into your pants and can be hired from the Park Headquarters.
- Get yourself a Porter. They help you carry your stuff, and help you on the trek with the steep ascents. Plus you are being a responsible traveller and giving back to the community by giving someone a job for the day. They cost USD 10 each but I would also give them a discretionary tip.
- Finally, at some point, put away your camera and observe the Gorillas in their surroundings, and enjoy being in the moment. You can really appreciate nature at its best, deep in the heart of the jungle on an ancient volcano, amidst fascinating creatures. An hour will be up before you know it so you don’t want to have spent the entire time behind a lens.
Any Questions or Tips to add?