Dance off dinner in a magical forest setting, sweat-out a hangover with sunrise salutations and grab the boxing gloves to pummel any lingering work concerns to a pulp. Welcome to Obonjan, a destination for purists and party-goers alike.
What was a derelict island off the coast of Croatia, is now a “wellness” destination, created by a British entrepreneur. With all the features of a wellness festival, Croatia’s sun-soaked island of Obonjan is a summer-long haven for yogis, music lovers, fitness fanatics and health devotees. Having only launched in 2016, Obonjan is trailblazing the trend for holistic holidays, offering a rolling cultural programme to fuel the mind, body and soul. The organisers behind this unique holiday proposition promise “all the things we love in one place” and as far as I was concerned, they were true to their word.
What is Obonjan?
Surrounded by the translucent emerald waters of the Adriatic Sea, Obonjan (pronounced oh-ban-yan) is an hour’s ferry ride from the historic city of Šibenik, approximately two hours up the coast from Split. Previously uninhabited, the team behind Hideout Festival have sensitively transformed this private island into an eco-friendly resort, introducing modern glamping amidst untamed nature.
Up to 500 guests sleep, relax and party under dense pine trees and roam uncultivated coastlines for secluded hideouts. With arrivals and departures catered for daily, guests have the freedom to stay for as long or as little as they like. So depending on the day, the island can feel deliciously deserted.
Accommodation
Chic and comfortable, camping on Obonjan is a stylish affair. Pinterest-perfect bell tents sleep up to four and are equipped with air-conditioning, electricity, WiFi, proper beds and even a full-length mirror. Bathroom facilities are shared and whilst they are clean, expect a walk for a pee in the night. Overall the bathroom situation was my biggest gripe; they absolutely need to build more facilities and the existing ones need to be monitored more frequently. There was always a queue for the shower and toilet paper was scarce. Speaking from experience, despite the glamping facade, do not forget that you are still sleeping outdoors, so if food is left in the tent then little visitors will come looking! If the thought of meeting a mouse on your way to wash fills you with dread then opt for a more luxurious lodge. With en-suite facilities and a personal terrace, these spacious lodgings offer privacy and pleasure. And don’t worry about struggling to wheel your case along forest floors, that’s all taken care of for you.
Activities
Upon check-in, guests are encouraged to download the island app for daily schedules and event notifications. This is a must-do to fully benefit from the line-up of talks, classes, activities and live music. A typical 24-hour programme includes island runs, yoga, meditation, poolside/beachside DJ sets, fitness sessions, stargazing, film screenings and late-night parties, plus various talks and workshops on subjects like art, mindfulness, nutrition and creativity. These activities are open to everyone and they are free, which is where the real added value of staying on Obonjan comes in to play.
I practised yoga twice a day and, on the whole, I was impressed with the level of teaching. Standout classes came courtesy of resident teacher, Charlotte Welfare, whose power sunrise sessions on the ocean platform were definitely worth the early alarm – seriously, what a way to start the day! Her classes were a rejuvenating mix of physically demanding poses entwined with spiritual reflections. There are two main yoga spots on the island: early morning practices take place on an exposed platform on the main harbour beach and then all later sessions are taught in a more intimate space, nestled amongst pine trees. A number of different classes run throughout the day covering a variety of styles from restorative yin to funky flow and inversion-heavy power sessions.
In all honesty, the talks I attended were a bit mediocre, but escaping the midday heat to sit in the shady Pavillion and listen to speakers talk about their passion subjects made for a welcome break between sunbathing. Because these sessions are free and so accessible, you find yourself trying things that wouldn’t normally appeal. For me, that involved attending a group meditation session to salute the full moon. Around 70 islanders gathered on the pebbly shore and were taken through a series of visualisations related to the energy of the moon. And you know what? It was magical – I loved it! At an extra cost, there are also water sports, excursions and healing treatments available daily. Special events run throughout the summer so check the calendar before booking to see if you can coincide your holiday with a headline DJ or world-renowned yoga teacher.
Relaxation
Of course, not everyone strives for self-improvement in the sun and the island also fully caters for relaxation and fun. The salt-water swimming pool is heavenly and huge and feels more five-star resort than a festival. For a buzzier vibe and great people-watching opportunities, head to the main harbour beach. Snoozing on oversized beanbags, sipping cocktails in the sun and perfecting the cleanest of dives is done to a soundtrack of DJ beats. With most islanders seeking some tanning time, organisers do need to provide more sun beds, particularly by the pool, where a number of squabbles arose over saving loungers.
Food
Apart from planning your daily schedule of relaxation vs. activity, the only other decision that awaits is where to eat. There are only a handful of options so if you are staying for longer than a few days, this may become an issue. Overall, the food is very good but it’s expensive. There is a good mix of proper restaurant fare and more shack-style food to go. Highlights for me included the vegetable stir fry at the poolside restaurant, lunchtime bruschettas overlooking the seafront and a delicious woodfired pizza near the Pavillion. Daily juices from The Green Bar and snacks from the convenience store do all add up and I recommend budgeting very generously for food. Whilst you can eat healthily, I was expecting a wider selection of clean-eating options, and don’t be surprised when food items run out: there were rarely berries available for the smoothies and the burger van seemed to be closed more often than not. One unexpected positive is all water on the island is safe to drink so there is no need to spend money on bottled brands.
Atmosphere
With only over-18s allowed, the island has a grown-up vibe. Overwhelmingly British, the majority of guests appeared to be young professionals with some bigger groups of school-leavers and a few families thrown in too. I would suspect that the type of crowd is determined somewhat by the special events, attracting a larger number of party-goers at points and more wellness-wannabes at others. With high-speed WiFi available everywhere, attempting any kind of digital detox would take considerable self-determination. On the plus side, the island is bursting with Instagram-worthy moments so just enjoy making friends jealous from your seafront power yoga start to the day to raving under illuminated trees at night.
Overall Obonjan is a fabulous island resort with lots of festival touches. During its first summer season, reviews were pretty scathing with guests turning angrily to social media to complain about the lack of food and poor organisation. Visiting in its second year, it’s clear that lessons have been learnt. That’s not to say it’s perfect, there are definitely areas for improvement but nevertheless, my advice is go sooner rather than later: they are keeping numbers limited for now and part of the charm of this oasis is its intimate size.
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