In Mexico City, few restaurants can compete with Pujol.
Deemed the place to dine by those who know best, the waiting list is notorious and the chef, Enrique Olvera, is considered one of South America’s finest. A pioneer of contemporary Mexican food and a global gourmet influencer, in his debut book, Mexico: From the Inside Out, Olvera shares some of his favourite recipes – including the restaurant’s signature Mole Madre, Mole Nuevo.
While Pujol’s menu changes seasonally, this is a menu mainstay. It has been described as “a taste of Mexico’s past and a vision of the future, all in one bite.” Learn how to make the perfect circle of fresh mole surrounded by a larger ring of mole that’s aged for more than 1,000 days, beside a basket of warm tortillas yourself from the recipe below…
MOLE MADRE
INGREDIENTS FOR MOLE NEGRO – MOLE VIEJO
4 chiles chilhuacle rojo chiles
4 chiles chilhuacle negro
4 chiles chilhuacle amarillo
2 heirloom tomatoes
2 large garlic cloves
1/2 white onion
1 whole clove
1 allspice berry
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig marjoram
1 sprig oregano
1 small cinnamon stick
1 tbsp powdered ginger
1 star anise
2 tbsp white sesame seeds
2 prunes
1/4 tsp nutmeg
1/4 plantain, peeled
2 tbsp roasted peanuts (groundnuts)
1 tbsp raisins
2 tbsp whole almonds
3 tbsp stone-ground chocolate
2 tbsp pecans
3 tbsp grapeseed oil
1 cup (240 ml) water
3 tbsp kosher salt
INGREDIENTS FOR MOLE ROJO – MOLE NUEVO
15 chiles pasilla mixe
2 heirloom tomatoes
2 large garlic cloves
1/2 white onion
1 whole clove
1 allspice berry
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig marjoram
1 sprig oregano
1 small cinnamon stick
1 tbsp powdered ginger
1 star anise
2 tbsps white sesame seeds
2 prunes
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 plantain, peeled
2 tbsp roasted peanuts (groundnuts)
1 tbsp raisins
2 tbsp whole almonds
3 tbsp stone-ground chocolate
2 tbsp pecans
3 tbsp grapeseed oil
1 cup (240 ml) water
3 tbsp kosher salt
INGREDIENTS FOR SESAME SEED TORTILLA
1 cup (280 g) Corn Dough (page 41)
1 tsp kosher salt
4 tsp water
3 tbsp white sesame seeds, toasted
62ml water
62ml whole milk
75g unsalted butter
150g plain white flour
4 whole eggs
1g cayenne pepper
1g salt
140g grated Parmesan cheese (and another 150g Parmesan to grate over churros just before serving)
METHOD FOR MOLE NEGRO – MOLE VIEJO
Place all the ingredients except the oil, water, and salt in a roasting pan and roast in a 450°F (230°C) oven for 8 minutes, checking to see that they do not burn. Remove from the oven and finely grind.
In a pan, sauté the ground ingredients in the oil over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 45 to 60 minutes.
Add the water and cook, stirring frequently, for 25 minutes. Strain and adjust the salt.
Reheat the mole every day, adding a new batch of black mole paste every 2 days.
METHOD FOR MOLE ROJO – MOLE NUEVO
Place all the ingredients except the oil, water, and salt in a roasting pan and roast in a 450°F (230°C/Gas Mark 8) for 4 minutes. Remove from the oven and finely grind.
In a pan, sauté the ground ingredients in the oil over medium heat, stirring frequently, for 45 to 60 minutes.
Add the water and cook, stirring frequently, for 25 minutes. Strain and adjust the salt.
METHOD FOR SESAME SEED TORTILLA
Knead all the ingredients in a bowl until combined and smooth.
Divide into 12 portions a little less than 1 ounce (25 g) each and roll each one into a ball. Using a tortilla press, form into tortillas.
Cook on a comal over medium heat, turning 3 times, for 45 seconds on each side for a total of 2 minutes and 15 seconds.
PLATING
Reheat both moles.
On each plate, spread 1/4 cup (60 ml) of the old mole into a circle, using the back of a spoon. Place 1 tablespoon of the new mole in the middle of each circle of the black mole.
Serve with tortillas.
Mexico: From the Inside Out, by Enrique Olvera; £39.95. Published by PHAIDON.
Any Questions or Tips to add?