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Food + Drink

Restaurant Review: Stoney Street, Borough Market, London

This sweet, under-the-radar bistro, located in bustling Borough Market, is the brainchild of Alex Hely-Hutchinson (of 26 Grains acclaim).

Unassuming and wholly welcoming, the toothsome Stoney Street is a must-visit for Londoners in search of quality, no-frills fare.


The Lowdown 

Plotted on Borough Market’s intersection, Stoney Street – named after the street it resides on – is a buzzy, casual, and welcoming spot. Its modern, rustic design mixes brushed concrete flooring with dark woods flanking the sections of the walls and counter spaces. Sweet additions of wildflowers and small tea-lights decorate the marble tabletops come evening. The top table? We recommend a countertop seat, which looks out to the sprawling market, for optimum people watching.

 

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What To Order

Taking a seasonal, ingredient-led approach, Chef Tom Cenci is currently at Stoney Street’s helm, plating up inventive fare from breakfast through to dinner.

Championing British produce, with an American twist, Cenci’s dinner menu is certain to tempt. For those who suffer FOMO when it comes to food orders, opt for ‘a bit of everything’ – a selection of seven small plates, which will cost you £65. Our scrumptious septet included: a sweetcorn crumpet topped with charred corn and spring onion, and a zesty trout crudo to start. Tasty smoked apricots served with wild rice, coconut, and jaggery followed, presented alongside mains of ‘pot-sticker dumplings’, which were generously doused in chilli oil and topped with peanut brittle. Cenci’s hearty smashed cheeseburger was served next, with a side order of fresh tomato and pickled watermelon salad for good measure. The Oreo Mississippi mud pie and the Baked Alaska (its tartness was balanced out perfectly by its creamy outer layer, and the inventive addition of peppercorn) also proved a winning combination, and the perfect note(s) on which to end.

If the above medley sounds like a little too much for one sitting (we found it ample for two people sharing), diners can always pick and choose individual dishes from the à la carte. See here.


 

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Who To Bring

Dine solo at the counter; bring your partner (or another much beloved plus one) and grab a table for two in the outdoor seating area at the front of the restaurant; or gather your crew and collect at one of the larger tables indoors.


The Dress Code

Come as you are. The vibe here is very much off-duty, anything goes, you do you.

 

Feature image: Photography by Daram Chatburn. 

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