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Food + Drink

Restaurant Review: Sucre, Soho, London

Combining the tradition of Latin American open-fire cooking with international influences, Buenos Aires eatery, Sucre proved a winning formula. Now, it’s opened a London outpost.

A swish spot for post-work dinner and/or drinks, visit the restaurant on the ground floor for hearty fare, and after supper – should heading home not feel so appealing – venture to their moody cocktail joint, Abajo, down below.


The Lowdown 

Bestowing a certain va-va-voom, Sucre is a place that exudes both fun and sophistication. The 123-cover eatery hums with chatter on entry to its main dining room. Diners are met with vibrantly upholstered chairs, and hundreds of beautiful decanters, forming chandeliers, hang from the ceiling. Impressive as surrounds may be, it’s not a case of style over substance here. Staff are beyond friendly, and as for the food – it’s scrumptious. Scroll on for the full, lip-smacking lowdown.


What To Order

At one end of Sucre’s main dining room you’ll spot the dramatic open fire pit (“parilla” (or grill)) and wood-fired oven. Setting a theatrical tone, the menu, devised by Chef Fernando Trocca, is built on the same concept.

Showcasing the best produce, at the peak of its season, food here is largely cooked over charcoal – the Argentine way, using embers rather than the live flame. When it comes to the provenance of dishes, expect a multicultural influence with a South American root.

And so to the menu. Munch on warm, fresh bread and salted butter while you survey your options. Those in need of some prompting would do well to start with the Dorset crab tostada and the supremely fresh Agua chile – which combines stone bass, cucumber, and plantain. For mains, select a medley of plates to test and try over the course of your evening. Our top choices: the plaice, cooked with Jerusalem artichokes and lemon; the black chicken with corn, tomatillo, and chilli (despite being a chicken dish, this is a really punchy and flavoursome dish); and the black rice, with squid, clams, and smoked paprika. Fancy something extra on the side? Try the tomato salad with capers and onion or the sage-infused potato cake, served with a dollop of aioli. Dessert peaks with a moreish dulce de leche fondant – though the strawberry choux bun comes a close second.
Feeling thirsty? Ask the sommelier for their tips on what to drink. We’d recommend kicking off your evening with a Gialo spritz.

Who To Bring

Your new fling. If things go well, extend your night at the sub-terra Abajo, a trendy bar set directly below Sucre. It’s open until 1AM.

 

Photography by Carol Sachs

Photography by Carol Sachs


The Dress Code

Something snappy. Wear a glamorous number that would make Eva Perón oh-so proud.

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