Awarded an OBE for her services to the culinary arts, Margot Henderson is a pioneer of modern British cuisine.
Spending a large chunk of her working hours at Arnold Circus, where Henderson’s restaurant Rochelle Canteen is located, the New Zealand-born chef’s menus, comprising of distinctive dishes from roast pork belly to quince and almond tart, are the talk of E2.
Here, Henderson shares her favourite places to dine in London, expands on how she got into cooking, and offers her advice to budding chefs.
How did you first get into cooking?
I got into cooking partly out of necessity and partly out of greed; my mother was a health nut. Though I was very proud of her bread and yoghurt – our cordial was cider vinegar and honey, our snacks were sunflowers seeds – I saw a need for white flour and sugar, especially for my little brothers birthdays. Birthdays were for fluffy, white things, all looking pretty. So, I started to cater. Also, I suppose not having any sugar about I was always desperate for sweet things, so baking was essential.
Then, around the age of 10, we were studying France and all the kids gathered snails from their gardens, we drowned them (not the right thing to do), boiled them, then fried them with garlic and parsley; so yummy. It became my thing, I would cook snails for my mother’s dinners – well, maybe once or twice.
What are some of your childhood food memories?
Having finished my school cert exams, my parents took me to a grand French restaurant, Le Normandie – I remember long dark velvet curtains. I had frogs’ legs for the first time; I loved them. I loved the waiters hovering around us, looking after us beautifully even though I was in a school uniform.
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Who most influenced your cooking?
Well, it depends ‘when’ really, but in the end Fergus Henderson has a major influence on my cooking and my approach to restaurants. I am his biggest fan. He taught me to cook slowly and gently, to cook on the bone and celebrate the whole beast, Nose to Tail Eating is my bible.
The food that makes you happiest and why?
Food cooked from the heart, with love. Traditional food from everywhere. Food that women cook at home – it is often gentle cooking that has been passed down with stories, food that we should be careful not to lose. Home-cooked food eaten with friends and family; and then great food in great restaurants cooked by great chefs.
Favourite cooking gadget?
Nutribullet. Great for soups, sauces, dressings… I made four soups out of leftovers the other day, then froze them all.
What’s the one ingredient you can’t live without?
Extra virgin olive oil.
Favourite cookbook(s)…
Memories of Gascony by Pierre Koffmann, I wish I could cook like him; The Essential Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan; Made in Italy by Giorgio Locatelli; The Pastry Chef’s Guide by Ravneet Gill.
How does travel influence your cooking?
Everything influences my cooking. I was just in Paris and came back wanting to cook, eat, and be more French.
Where are your favourite places to dine in London?
St John, Kiln, Boa, Noble Rot, KOL, Trullo, Brat, Maison Francois, Canton Arms, River Café, Royal China Club, and MiMi Mei Fair.
What do you always avoid ordering on a menu?
Well, nothing really. I find it hard to choose, I’m more about meat and fish.
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By contrast, must-order items on the menu at Rochelle Canteen include…
Pork chop and lentils is always a winner. Duck rillettes is a wonder. The green salad is rocking.
Why do you think it’s important to gather round the table to eat?
It’s always important to bring family and friends together, take the time to cook together, eat, drink, and, hopefully, dance. Uplifting moments of sharing each other’s company and lives. The happiest moments for me are always around a table, it could be as simple as a poached chicken, but sitting together is key.
What is your go-to meal at home when you’re low on time?
Roast chicken and vegetables; it’s a one-pan wonder and then the chicken can go on for cold chicken stock etc. Risotto is always another easy favourite.
Do you find cooking therapeutic?
Yes, if you take the time; it does take longer than you think. I find it relaxing tucked away with Radio 4 cooking up a big meal. Diving into cookbooks, making stuff up; it’s like gardening. I’m happier doing than sitting.
Advice for women thinking about starting up a business in the food or restaurant industry?
Enjoy; it’s hard work and often it can feel like a boy’s club, but I always loved it and still do. It’s been very helpful having my own business and having such a wonderful partner. We have shared so much over the years; we understand where each other is coming from. We share most problems and then the good things as well. Having our business has meant flexibility and, as we both have children, that has been very important to us. Now they are grown up we also want flexibility to follow our own interests. My advice is: have your own business and get a great partner!
Any Questions or Tips to add?