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Food + Drink

Restaurant Review: Fallow, London

Celebrating sustainable thinking and creative cooking, Fallow makes ‘the simple things taste extraordinary’.

Following the success of Fallow’s Heddon Street pop-up, former Dinner by Heston Blumenthal chefs, Will Murray and Jack Croft, decided to open a permanent address in St James’s. For all our stomachs sakes, thank heavens they did…


The Lowdown 

Expect nose-to-tail, root-to-stem dining; nothing is wasted here.

If you can, nab a spot at the seven-seat chef’s counter – that way, you’ll be right in the heart of the action.


What To Order

Peruse the extensive menu – which is composed of paper made from harvested algae, no less – choosing a combination of small and large plates, as well as melange of raw and grilled items. Kick things off with one of their flatbreads – we’d recommend the Tunworth cheese and caramelised onions version, made better only by a generous shaving of truffle. Also, the grilled ribs of sweetcorn, presented with a side of lime and dusted in kombu seasoning, are next level.

Need some guidance? Fallow’s affable staff are only too happy to offer their advice and guidance.

 

Credit Steven Joyce

Credit Steven Joyce

Showcasing British ingredients that would otherwise have been discarded, Fallow’s menu is wholly inventive and perhaps best summed up as: indulgent. That said, may we suggest you order the cod’s head with sriracha butter? Encapsulating all that Fallow represents, this dish is surprisingly delicious. Those not feeling super adventurous will find a happy alternative in the market fish or a dairy cow cut: choose from sirloin, fillet, or ribeye on the bone. For sides, try the sweetest roasted carrots we’ve ever tasted (we’re not being even a pinch hyperbolic) and the Boulangère potatoes, which are deceptively light in appearance, but rather filling. Vegetarians, you’ll be well catered to here – the hispi cabbage, which is confited in butter and doused in chive oil, white miso, and black garlic, makes a strong case for ‘best dish’.

 

Credit Steven Joyce

Credit Steven Joyce

Dessert-wise, buy yourself some digestion time by ordering the rhubarb soufflé – it takes approximately 10/15 minutes to prepare. For something swifter, try the Chelsea tart with caramelised whey, made using leftover whey from Kappacasein Dairy.


Who To Bring

Those with an interest in sustainable design are likely to be impressed by the restaurant’s considered interiors: the walls, for example, are flanked in terrazzo-esque tiles composed of repurposed mussel and oyster shells leftover from Fallow’s pop-up days.

 

Credit Steven Joyce

Credit Steven Joyce


The Dress Code

Come as you are, it’s quite relaxed here. Still, given Fallow’s leanings, an eco-conscious ensemble (think PANGAIA or Maggie Marilyn) wouldn’t be out of place.

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