Discreetly opulent, untouched by tourism and home to its first luxury hotel, Palazzo Durazzo, now is the time to visit Genoa.
Genoa might not be the first Italian city that springs to mind, but spend 24 hours exploring its cobbled streets and you’ll start to wonder why not. A historical landmark in its own right and the first truly exquisite hotel in this underrated medieval city, Palazzo Durazzo is the jewel in Genoa’s crown. Add a stay to your bucket list now.
The Vibe
Palazzo Durazzo is special. The seven-story palace was built 400 years ago as a second home for the Durazzo family – a place to welcome high-profile guests from all over the world. The property remains in the family, but to say walking through the entrance is like arriving at a home falls short. Not many family homes are as spectacular as this.
Emanuela Brignone Cattaneo, the wife of Giacomo Cattaneo Adorno – a descendant of the family who built it – led its seven-year renovation. A celebrated architect and visionary, Cattaneo’s passion for the city influences every interior detail.
Her goal? To create a space that celebrates and respects Genovese tradition and puts her hometown on the map. It’s certainly luxurious but forget glossy interiors, state-of-the-art technology and an insta-friendly neutral colour palette. This is timelessness at its best.
The palazzo is inconspicuous from the street, much like many of Genoa’s most grandiose architecture, but behind each door lies an education in ancient Italian creativity. At the entrance, a carpeted stone staircase leads to the first floor and a bar. Here, soft lighting, a floor-to-ceiling bookshelf and a striking 12-part artwork series by Sam Falls sets the tone. After a long journey, the sense of calm this lounge omits, combined with the plush burgundy velvet sofa and a cold glass of Italian sparkling, is the perfect remedy. Hello Genoa.
The Rooms
Each of the palazzo’s twelve suites boasts unique design traits – preserving the building’s original features was paramount. Among the most impressive are the frescoed ceiling of the Il Doge Suite, the gilded in-room chapel of the Four Seasons Suite (a non-negotiable in 17th century palazzos, it seems), and the seashell mosaics of Le Conchiglie Suite. Sprawling four-poster beds ensure every room is as comfortable as the sofa in the lounge bar, and welcome nods to modern hospitality: coffee machines, mini bars and brand new bathrooms, make settling in easy.
The Food + Drink
Breakfast is served in the dining room, and tables stand by windows overlooking the city’s medieval harbour. The coffee is typically Italian (read: good), and the must-try local delicacies of basil pesto (which originated in Genoa) and coffee cream take pride of place on the buffet bar, also home to the usual European spread. There are plans to open the restaurant for dinner in the future, but for now explore the local area by night and indulge in another Genovese specialty: fried squid and anchovies.
The Little Extras
Pick up a personalised map at reception – not just a plan of the city, it features a list of the hosts’ favourite sites, eateries and shops, too. Dogs are welcome in some of the rooms (La Cupola, Via del Campo, De André, and Le Conchiglie) for an extra fee – €40 per pet, per night. Families should opt to stay in La Cupola, which can sleep four. There’s no spa but guests can book time in the sauna, Turkish bath and relaxation area; massages, Reiki and reflexology can be arranged when booked in advance. Look out for sculptures by Domenico Parodi in the L’Oriente Suite, he painted for Genoa’s leading families in the 17th century.
The To-Do List
Brignone’s enthusiasm for the surrounding ancient old town is infectious and despite the temptation to stay cocooned in the hotel, exploring the city is a must. Pick up a map of the local area from reception and make a beeline for Via Garibaldi Lifestyle Store to fuel any newly ignited passion for interior shopping; wander the city’s ancient churches (at the Cathedral of San Lorenzo you can be within touching distance of the Holy Grail); and end the day at Palazzo Rosso art gallery.
All image credit: Palazzo Durazzo
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