Stepping off the ferry in Hydra is like stepping back in time. The Saronic island lies just over an hour from the hustle and bustle of Athens and yet feels a million miles away.
Leonard Cohen is one of many well-known names who escaped to the island in the sixties and as you arrive in the postcard-perfect harbour, lined with mules and rowdy fishermen, it’s easy to imagine that not much has changed since. In 2024, it remains the place to be in Greece for a trendy crowd yet, with an understated aura, quiet luxury prevails here.
There are no cars on Hydra – horses and mules take their place – so the island feels instantly peaceful. Modern architecture hasn’t taken hold and the little cobbled streets are filled with small boutique hotels and white-washed family homes. It’s a place that still feels authentically Greek and has avoided the globalisation and development of its hedonistic counterparts, Mykonos and Santorini. This is where to stay, what to do and where to eat.
WHERE TO STAY
MANDRAKI BEACH RESORT
Photo credit: Mandraki Beach Resort
Don’t expect to find glossy hotels and mega resorts on Hydra. Most accommodation, like the island itself, is understated. Mandraki embodies this ethos wholeheartedly – with little touches that are designed to make each guest’s stay extra special. You get your own sun lounger on the beach for the duration of your stay (gold-dust on the island’s only sandy beach), a complimentary round from the minibar, and Diptyque bath products. Their restaurant Captain M specialises in local seafood, and visitors flock from all over the island for their grilled shrimp and lobster salad.
ORLOFF BOUTIQUE HOTEL
The elegant Orloff Boutique Hotel is set just a few steps back from Hydra’s harbour. Outfitted in traditional blue and white and dotted with local antiques, it’s an authentically rustic gem. Every morning, a traditional Greek breakfast is served in the courtyard: think local pies, cheese and creamy Greek yoghurt with honey. Escape the morning sun under a grove of lemon trees; it’s tranquil except for the odd interruption of a braying donkey. But, in our opinion, that only adds to the charm.
FOUR SEASONS HYDRA
Not to be confused with the hotel chain of the same name, Four Seasons Hydra is a small, independent outfit and can only be accessed by boat from the main harbour. This six-suite hotel is set in a 150-year-old stone mansion and sits on one of the island’s best beaches: Plákes Vlyhoú. The grounds are dotted with pines and olive trees and the rooms are simple and airy. If you’re not staying at the hotel, you can still visit for the day using their water taxi service, and it’s well worth the trip to enjoy lunch on their beachfront terrace. Don’t forget to pack your beach shoes – the beach is pebbly.
EAT + DRINK
PIATO
Piato is a Hydra icon and has been visited by the likes of Dame Vivienne Westwood, Pamela Anderson and Kate Moss, who have quite literally left their mark on the place. This little waterfront taverna has walls full of plates decorated by patrons over the years. And no, it’s not a gimmick to draw in diners, the food is also fantastic. Think traditional Greek dishes – moussaka, tzatziki, souvlaki and Greek salad – all cooked by the owner’s 80-something-year-old mother.
TÉCHNĒ
Téchnē serves up great food with an even better view. This modern restaurant sits on the cliffside a gentle ten-minute walk from the main town and is one of the best spots for sunset. The menu is modern without being stuffy, and the cocktail list is one of the best on the island. It’s worth booking in advance, especially if you want a front-row view of the action.
Douskos Xeri Elia is a historic taverna hidden about a five-minute walk from the harbour, and allegedly the star of an eponymous (unpublished) Leonard Cohen song. This family-run taverna’s seating sprawls lazily over the courtyard and waiters run between tables with overflowing plates of dolmades and fresh pitta. The food here is unfussy but authentic – local wine comes by the litre and long lunches and (even longer) dinners are the norm. Don’t leave without trying their homemade orange halva for dessert.
SPILIA BEACH BAR
Locals and visitors alike flock to Spilia Beach Bar and it’s an all-day affair. In the mornings, you’ll catch groups of local children diving off its swimming platforms before they head to school, and in the afternoon the platform is covered in the colourful towels of sun worshippers. Come sunset, it’s the perfect spot to grab a cocktail or two and take your last dip of the day. The sun sets right here, so the view is pretty spectacular too.
WHAT TO DO
BEACH HOP
Photo credit: Mandraki Beach Resort
If you’re hoping for sandy beaches then Hydra might not be for you. While the small island has a handful of good beaches, most are pebbly. We suggest packing a good pair of water shoes. There are a couple of beaches accessible on foot from the main town (chora) – we love Kamini Beach and its adjoining restaurant, Castello, for a relaxing day. However, most of Hydra’s best beaches are only accessible by water taxi from the chora’s harbour. In high season, these usually run hourly and cost between 10 and 12 euros for a return trip. We recommend days at both Bisti and Agios Nikolaos. Don’t expect glitzy beach bars though: each has a little beach shack plus loungers, and are perfect for swimming.
DESTE FOUNDATION
DESTE Foundation Project Space, Slaughterhouse, Hydra. Photo: Janis Vlastaras & Rebecca Constantoulou
Jeff Koons’ Apollo has become Hydra’s unofficial mascot. Designed by the artist in 2021, you won’t miss the 30-foot sun installation spinning from the shoreline, welcoming pilgrims from far and wide. It’s the only permanent piece at DESTE – a slaughterhouse-turned-art-gallery. Each summer, a new artist takes residency in the space and remains for the full season. Alumni include the aforementioned Jeff Koons, David Shrigley and Kiki Smith. This year, George Condo heads up proceedings with his exhibition: The Mad and the Lonely.
HARRIET’S HYDRA HORSES
If you’ve had your fill of beach hopping, then an adventure with Harriet’s Hydra Horses is a great opportunity to see a little more of the island. Established in 2014, Harriet, who has lived on the island since she was a child, and her team of beautiful horses offer a whole host of island tours. You can take historical trips that visit villages around the island, or curate your own trek. Harriet’s tours are suitable for riders of all abilities and offer the chance to explore areas of the island that might not be so easily accessible by foot (remember, there are no cars here).
VISIT LEONARD COHEN’S HOUSE
Image credit: Hilde Demarsin, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Leonard Cohen is synonymous with Hydra’s lore – the musician famously retreated to the island in the 60s where he met his lover and muse Marianne (of So Long Marianne and Bird on the Wire fame). There is no official Cohen museum on the island, but dedicated fans can still pass by his former home, which is still owned by his family. The home is not open to the public, but a local will happily help point it out if you are keen to see where some of the musician’s most iconic music was penned.
WHERE TO SHOP
KOUTSIKOU HYDRA
This stylish little store features a curated edit of homewares, linens and knick-knacks by Italian-born Lea Paouri. Her love of natural materials shines through – expect rattan rugs, light linen dresses and beautiful pottery pieces.
MELISSES GALLERY
Hydra has its fair share of beautifully curated concept stores, packed with brands from Greece and further afield. One of our favourites is Melisses Gallery, which is tucked in the corner of the main harbour. Inside you’ll find local ceramics (we love the colourful sardines), handmade jewellery from local artisans and playful basket bags from The Jacksons.
RAFALIAS PHARMACY
Established in 1890 by the grandfather of the current owner, Rafalias Pharmacy is one of the oldest in Greece. The beautiful store has maintained all of its original features and sells a selection of products grown and handmade by the family (from the owner’s mother’s recipes no less) alongside your pharmacy mainstays. There are olive oil face creams, body washes, soaps and a line of natural perfumes in fragrances of rose, lemon and bergamot.
Photo credit: Mandraki Beach Resort
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