Rambling fields of sunflowers and throws of lavender grow at the foot of ochre-toned rocks carved out by the Louberon river: Provence is a colourful landscape, which offers just as much excitement in its culinary scene.
Provence upholds an undeniable poetic mysticism, and there is just as much to be said about the charm of the region’s restaurants. Including Le Moulin, an old mill in the heart of Lourmarin, and a terrace that gazes over the scenic Louberon valley, these are a few of the most beautiful restaurants in Provence.
Bacheto, Le Moulin, Lourmarin
Find Le Moulin at the heart of one of the most beautiful villages in France: Lourmarin. This 16th century enclave brims with boutique clothing stores and elegant terraces where rosé flows by the carafe. Once an old mill and now a quietly refined hotel that beckons a steady stream of guests and aperitif-seekers alike, Le Moulin breathes a sophisticated presence in this antique village. Follow the traditional brick masonry walls, through the entrance and under the cantaloupe-toned awning, to arrive at Le Moulin’s restaurant, Bacheto. Taking over a large expanse of the hotel’s ground floor, the space honours the history of the property with sweeping, brick arches and stone floors. Interiors by Paris-based studio Saint-Lazare play into the earth-bound tones of the whole hotel: tiled-tables, wicker chairs, stone shelves decorated with wine and olive oil vases, and oil paintings by Caroline Beauzon add a stylish Spanish vibe. The true highlight of the space is teased through the wall-sized arched window which beckons to the intimate terrace, where tables sit under lights strung between the trees.
The menu marries all the best parts of Mediterranean dining. Meander between a selection of small and large plates for tapas-style dining. In each dish, all ingredients are sourced within a strict radius of the property to ensure seasonality and reduce food miles, while the rosé is Beaumier‘s own made from local grapes. Le Moulin caters to vegetarian and vegan diets too; phone ahead of your booking and the accommodating team will curate dishes to suit your dietary requirements.
L'Orangerie Restaurant, Airelles Gordes La Bastide
At the top of the Provence town of Gordes, and with panoramic views over the Louberon valley, you’ll find L’Orangerie. Ornamental in all the classic ways, a stream of round cast-iron tables adorned with white linens meander along the property’s expansive veranda, dotted between carefully pruned pots of jasmine. L’Orangerie offers a separate menu for lunch and dinner, and each menu is a re-invention of the best produce the region has to offer. Chef Yohan Fatela will guide you through the senses, where flavour, colour, and texture are presented with a fine-tuned attention to detail. You’ll find mushroom carpaccio paired with garlic butter glazed snails, and a heavy focus on fish plates including red tuna, spider crab, and turbot. The sweet treats by pastry chef Baptiste Depoorter (with gluten free options) are just as elegant. The dessert menu is nothing short of spectacular, and Paris-based pastry star Cedric Grolet is hosting dessert-focussed masterclasses (running this autumn) at the property.
Le Galinier, Lourmarin
At the edge of Lourmarin, turn up a winding gravel drive where beds of lavender and pine trees open up to one of the most beautiful spots in Provence, Le Galinier. The latest French addition to Beaumier‘s portfolio, this was once a 19th century house and has conserved its stated glamour of the period, from the stacked stone walls to the sophisticated-take on a French-farmhouse with the interiors. The front-facing terrace is a sun-trap come evening, glowing orange under the warm provencal sun. It’s in this cinematic spot that dinner is served from Wednesday to Sunday. There is no permanent restaurant at Le Galinier, instead chefs take up seasonal residencies. This summer, chef Johanna Solal serves a culinary journey of the Luberon region, in collaboration with Baïta, with a set menu of tasting dishes. The menu regularly changes, but expect dishes akin to fresh figs served with cucumber, or homemade gnocchi doused in a fresh mandarin jus. There’s an effervescent romantic charm to these plates when served under the waning candlelight, as the cicadas and rustling greenery of the provincial countryside quietens around you. It’s a feast in all senses of the word. You won’t find an experience quite like this anywhere else.
La Petite Maison De Cucuron
Part of the beauty of the French culinary scene is that award-winning, fine-dining spots are often uncovered in the quietest of villages. The unsuspecting facade of La Petite Maison de Cucuron doesn’t give anything away as to the bold culinary presence inside. The typically-French townhouse with faded blue shutters and iron cast balcony hides a kitchen run by Cordon Bleu chef Éric Sapet, who made his name at some of Paris’ top restaurants. The Michelin-Guide (where the restaurant holds a spot) menu serves market-sourced produce to ensure seasonality, with lots of truffle-based courses in the winter. If visiting in the summer, reserve a table on the covered terrace for a long, intimate meal under the French sun. Whichever season you visit, you’ll be met with the classic French charm of white-clothed round tables and local wines – paired with lively, modern twists on typical dishes.
L'Aupiho, Domaine de Manville
L’Aupiho, meaning ‘Little Alps’, works in tune with the surrounding earth for a refined, gastronomic dining. The Michelin-Star awarded menu by executive chef Lieven van Aken transforms produce purchased at the local market into decorative works of art on the plate. Foraged herbs of mint, thyme and wild strawberries from nearby Alpilles and Mont Ventoux paint the final touches of colour and flavour. The menu is set and changes regularly, with the option between two or three courses for lunch sittings and four or five courses for dinner. While dining outside on the restaurant’s terrace, amongst wildflowers and with the soft scent of nearby lavender fields is always atmospheric, L’Aupiho also has a large greenhouse area where breakfast and Sunday brunch is served. Floor-to-ceiling glass panels flood the interior with light and open the views onto the nearby olive groves, while locally grown flowers decorate the tables.
Le Relais Du Castelet
Le Relais du Castelet is a 12th century farmhouse (previously a hunting lodge) cocooned between the Montmajour Abbey and the Daudet Mill. A property of French heritage, this refined retreat is a special spot to enjoy a rustic – yet still elegant – approach to dining. Here, dishes let the vivid flavours of sun-ripened, seasonal produce ring across the set lunch or evening menu: a stylish platter of heirloom tomatoes stuffed with a spicy purée is the latest addition to the considered offerings. In typical French style, dessert is preceded by a plate of local cheeses, and the wine list is dominated by local producers, each as passionate as the next about the art of wine-making. Opt for a table by the mulberry trees – next to the peaceful stone walls and covered by the sun – by day, or under star and festoon lights by night.
Lead image credit: L’Orangerie
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