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The A-List Guide To The Quiet Side Of Mykonos

With a profusion of bougie beach clubs and wild nightlife, Mykonos has become synonymous with partying.

But Greece’s most raucous island also has a peaceful side, which can be discovered especially easily at the cusp of peak season in May or June and into September and October. 


So if you’ve danced through enough sunsets at Scorpios, splurged on seafood at JackieO’ and bagged plenty of sunbeds at Alemagou, it might be time to revisit this Cycladic gem. Those who do will discover the serene soul beneath all the glitz and glamour, with plenty of luxury to revel in.


WHERE TO STAY

Bill & Coo The Coast

Privacy and serenity reigns at this adults-only retreat located on a sweep of Agios Ioannis beach, considered one of the most beautiful – and certainly the most sheltered – spots on the island. This is the intimate sister property of Bill & Coo Suites and Lounge, which is perched on the edge of Mykonos Town. This one draws an elegant crowd who are more interested in beachside bliss than buzzy clubs. That said, this hotel has its own exclusive beach club for toes-in-the-sand cocktail sipping and sunbathing. Then for long, languid lunches of world-class steak and the freshest seafood in the shade of mulberry trees, you’re just a few steps up to Beefbar Mykonos, one of the island’s most talked-about hotspots. But the very best part of staying here is retreating to your room, especially if it’s one of the 10 brand new suites hidden away up a rustic road above the main part of the hotel. Airy, spacious and impeccably finished in Cycladic minimalist style, these suites exude romance, luxury and privacy, each with a large terrace and pool overlooking the sea and the island of Delos beyond.

Kalesma

For high design and a chic ambience, it has to be Kalesma. On a hillside above yacht-studded Ornos Bay, this hotel feels a world away from the island’s famous party scene, yet you might encounter some trendy DJ types retreating here to relax and recharge once the sunset sessions are over. And who could blame them – Kalesma is such a haven of tranquillity it almost feels like a tiny Greek village, complete with its own tiny whitewashed chapel. There’s a Barbara Sturm spa where talented therapists deliver soul-soothing massages and glow-awakening facials, as well as a breeze-whipped pool where the air is flecked with sea salt, lavender and bougainvillaea from the surrounding gardens – perfectly manicured, of course. But really, there’s little reason to leave your suite, with its sea views, private pools large enough for pre-breakfast laps, and abundance of natural materials, from local ceramics to woven wooden ceilings. Come sunset, it’s worth ambling over to the al fresco Sunset Lounge for a cocktail (don’t miss the Kumquat Negroni) followed by dinner at Pere Ubu, with its coal-fired grill serving up delicious squid, lamb chops and authentically heavenly dips.

Domes Noruz Mykonos

Another great hideout in the quieter hills of the north above Agios Stefanos beach is Domes Noruz Mykonos, a boutique offering from the Domes collection of hotels that are dotted across Greece and Portugal. Here, the luxury is a little more relaxed, drawing a crowd of stylish young couples, who might be heard planning a trip into Mykonos Town on the hotel’s free shuttle, or casually deciding to extend their stay over the weekend, perhaps hiring a boat to see neighbouring Delos up close. Everyone and everything is lightly scented with the delicious smell of Eau de Magnolia from the Frederic Malle toiletries that wait to be plundered in the cream and beige-clad rooms. These too wear their luxury lightly, offering great views of the sea from private terraces, while reaffirming their chic Cycladic credentials with plenty of light wood and rattan touches. The small yet mighty restaurant is unfailingly delicious, with tables set around a beautiful olive tree and dishes adding subtle surprises to Greek classics, like tomatoes and feta studded with little cubes of fresh, silky eel.


WHERE TO EAT

Miramar

There are only about 10 tables in this hidden gem in the Aleomandra area of Mykonos, but it’s well worth trying to bag one for a long lunch or dinner lit by sunset. Part of Casa Del Mar hotel, it hovers above a secluded semi-private beach with a single line of sun loungers that make frenetic beach clubs seem like something from a different universe. An all-day menu spans everything from breakfast pancakes to fresh tuna gyros and octopus orzo.

Yēvo

For a fine dining experience to remember in a setting that feels particularly exclusive, book a table at Yēvo, located within Bill & Coo Suites and Lounge. Here, talented chef Aggelos Bakopoulos is making waves with a trio of tasting menus that elevate the culinary heritage of the Cycladic islands. It’s worth resisting the urge to look at the menu ahead of time so that every masterfully prepared course is a complete surprise, but if we were going to ruin one it would be the melt-in-your-mouth raw red prawn, served with its charred head in which the bold can pour and drink a shot of clarified bisque.

 

La Petite Maison Mykonos

Ok, so it might not be a million miles away from Mykonos Town (in fact, it’s only a pebble’s throw away from it) but LPM’s brand new outpost on the island is the perfect choice if you’re seeking a little bit of elevated buzz without full immersion into the party scene. With fantastic sunset views and a profusion of uplifting artwork, good times are guaranteed here, with a menu that brings a taste of the French Riviera to Mykonos with escargots and duck confit (somehow, it just works) all washed down with a devilishly good Tomatini or two.


WHAT TO SEE

Kalo Livadi Beach

Almost always less crowded than the popular beaches of the island’s south coast, Kalo Livadi is located 10km south-east of Mykonos Town. Come here for the softest sand, the clearest turquoise waters and, most importantly, the surreal treat of plenty of space.

Pagka Market

This local fishermen and farmers’ market can be found early each morning in the Old Port in Mykonos Town. A veritable rainbow of fresh fruit and vegetables appears in the early hours, as does some of the freshest fish you’re likely to come across. But even if you’re not coming here to make any purchases, it’s worth a visit to get a glimpse into real Mykonos life.

Tragonisi Caverns

Tragonisi is a tiny uninhabited rocky island off the east coast of Mykonos, making it easy to miss. Full of caverns and caves, it’s home to some rare sea life, including yellow sea anemones that are found nowhere else in Greece and Mediterranean monk seals, which can sometimes be spotted in the crystal-clear waters.


Lead image credit: Domes Noruz Mykonos

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