Milan is a city of two halves. You’ll know it as one of the fashion capitals of the world and it’s true, its streets are a catwalk for the well dressed, who epitomise the city’s flair and attitude.
Milan boasts a polished shopping district with every label you could imagine clambering to snag bricks-and-mortar, and a hospitality scene that’s famous for its fashion house connections. But, there’s also the graffiti-covered buildings, industrial complexes and the lesser looked after streets, that give this city an edge.
It’ll take more than one visit to get to know the different sides of Milan, but this guide is all about the high-low; sharing both the historic must-dos, alongside contemporary hang outs.
STAY
Bulgari Milan
Milan has long been a place where fashion brands are part of the city’s architecture: from Dolce and Gabbana’s restaurant to Highsnobiety’s collaboration with Bar Basso, luxury fashion brands live and breathe here. Flying the flag for overnight stays is Bulgari Hotel, by the iconic jewellery brand which began in Rome back in 1884. Today, Bulgari is known not only for its diamonds, but an elite fragrance line and celebrity-worn accessories, all of which you’ll see nods to around the sleek hotel. The lobby blends old and new, with sculptural furniture and metallic lighting alongside black and white photographs of iconic Bulgari models and adverts referencing its Dolce Vita heyday. In the rooms, everything has been thought through, from USB sockets, a Dyson Airwrap, a pillow menu and complimentary fresh juices in the mini fridge. In the heart of the chi-chi Brera district, all central spots are easily reachable on foot and yet the hotel is a tranquil oasis, hidden from the hustle and bustle; its private garden and al fresco restaurant are a welcome sight after a long day of pounding the shopping streets. Aperitivo is non-negotiable; don’t miss the Negroni or the countless plates of deep-fried pasta, soft focaccia slices and prosciutto so buttery that it almost melts in the mouth.
P0rtrait Milano
If there’s one hotel that embodies the spirit and style of Milan, it’s the Portrait Milano, part of The Leading Hotels of the World portfolio. At its centre is a columned courtyard, which not only acts as a grand welcome but drops a hint to the building’s rich history as one of the oldest seminaries in Europe. Built in 1565, the architecture is something to behold and lends itself to a memorable aperitivo, as well as informing the rest of the hotel, with a walled garden punctuated by centuries-old statues, and a wrap-around terrace on the second floor grounded by terracotta flooring and original features. As you step into the reception, followed by the atmospheric library and bar, Italian art, culture and design shine through: coffee tables and shelves are heavy with art tomes, while original pieces hang on the walls and bold design decisions – like geometric carpeting and rich colours – appear. Bedrooms follow the same beat, balancing sophisticated wood-panelled walk-in wardrobes and crisp, white sheets, with punches of raspberry velvet across curtains and accent chairs. Guests are invited to enjoy the library for a game of chess and to flick through expensive coffee table books, while the 10_11 bar and restaurant offers casual dining.
Max Brown Missori
Max Brown Hotels have been on the scene since 2014, offering on-trend style at half the price. Currently, there are six Max Brown hotels spanning Amsterdam, Berlin, Vienna, Dusseldorf and Milan. Retro nods are found in chic, travertine chess boards decorating mid-century tables in the lobby, or pastel-hued record players (complete with Beatles album) in your room. Downstairs is where you’ll find the most bang for your buck, with the Milan hotel’s lounge, bar and dining area all fitting the aesthetic bill – think antique dressers filled with curiosities, big, squishy armchairs and plenty of Assouline travel coffee table books. Rooms are purposely fuss free but still easy on the eye, with quirky touches like checked carpeting and accent chairs in bright hues. While the baby-blue, in-room Smeg kettle is undeniably cute, you won’t find much else in your room by the way of snacks and drinks: instead, head to reception and peruse the shelves of international treats, all hand-picked to make you smile, stir nostalgia or reflect local tastes. And, while we’re on the subject of food, breakfast is a sweet affair not to be missed; apparently in Milan the day starts with cake – a fact we’re more than okay with. Expect a buffet of fruit tarts, sponges, chocolate loaves and all the usuals, including eggs, sausages, sliced meats, cheeses and fruit.
Mandarin Oriental
Whether you’re heading to Milan for Fashion Week, an industry event or an important meeting, Mandarin Oriental – just 15 minutes walk from Duomo di Milano – is ideally located. Everything here has been designed with serenity in mind; in the lobby, sleek orchids sit side-by-side in uniform, leading the way to the hotel’s restaurant and hidden terrace, the Mandarin Garden. There’s no denying that the space is alive with an Italian style (Italian architect and designer, Antonio Citterio, presided over the concept) favouring geometric wallpapers and emerald green garden furnishings, but the overarching feeling is clean-cut and calm. This goes for the bedrooms, too, which keep things simple with high ceilings, lots of light and colour tones of soft greys and creams. If you’re really lucky, you’ll be facing one of the building’s original stone balconies which, yes, are usable and a total suntrap come 7pm. The bathroom boasts some nice touches too, like wash cloths embroidered with your initials on, but the real wow moment is the huge marble bath tub.
EAT + DRINK
Osteria del Binari
It’s easy to see why director Wes Anderson loves Milan so much; at times it feels like a set from one of his vintage-inspired films. And, this is the magic of Osteria Del Binari, a traditional osteria and bistro opened back in the seventies by a group of friends as the result of a bet. Originally the space was imagined as an extension of their home kitchen, serving simple Lombard cuisine to friends and foodies, but over the years as its popularity grew, so did the site. Today, the osteria’s indoor restaurant, which is used mostly in the colder months, has an almost museum-like feel. Fireplaces stand proud, some decorated with colourful, traditional mosaic tiling, studded with old wine bottles and crowned with sepia family photographs; a crimson-red dining room is dotted with still-life paintings, decorative plinths and traditional white tablecloths; and waiters wear bow ties and white jackets. If you can, though, grab a spot in the green house which opens up into an enchanted garden, glowing with fairy lights. This hidden oasis sees big groups of family, friends and lovers dine on twirling garden furniture, Italian style. As the owners say, the food is traditional and hearty, so you can’t go wrong with classics here. Zucchini flowers in batter are heaven, as are the fresh, handmade pastas, like scialatielli with lemon pesto, taggiasca olives and dill prawn tartare.
LùBar
While Milan is famous for its deliciously moody, wooden panelled bars and restaurants, LùBar offers a more casual alternative that’s still brimming with character. Located in a stunning indoor greenhouse, a mix of woven seating and huge potted plants create a relaxing, indoor-outdoor effect, something which the team have nicknamed the ‘oasis’ in the middle of the Porta Nuova district. While the brand’s identity is contemporary, the restaurant’s home within an 18th-century building means that historic features are a big part of the space. Take a tomb-like monument in the centre of the dining room, for example, which makes for an unusual statement feature to add layer, depth and a classic Milanese nod. Those looking for social media-ready photo opportunities will love cute tableware like pistachio-striped water glasses and vine-covered side plates. And there’s nothing more ‘holiday’ than an Aperol-in-hand snap, which is a LùBar specialty – add it to your aperitivo list, alongside a mix of vegetable-based small, sharing plates.
Trattoria Torre di Pisa
Italy, perhaps more than any other country, makes you want to disappear into a little restaurant down a side street and bump elbows with locals. Trattoria Torre di Pisa does a great job of making this dream come true. Surprisingly close to the tourist district, its unassuming doorway opens up into a multi-roomed eatery, which seems to go on and on. Chic in its refusal to try and be ‘cool’ or anything other than itself, walls are lined with mismatch artworks and photos, many of which seem to have sentimental meaning. You’ll love the textile artworks which hang above the windows, with wiggly, clouds of pastel fabric stitched together in pretty patterns in a homemade aesthetic. It’s a joy to see such an eclectic array of diners here, from a design studio of bright young things celebrating the end of a photo shoot, to a family meal spanning four generations. It doesn’t matter that the lights are bright and the music is low, the vibe works. As for the food, dishes lean towards Tuscan influences so you’ll find a lot of meat-based recipes like Tuscany sausages cooked on the grill and sliced beef steak with mustard. The carbonara is a must-try, as is the chocolate mousse.
Pavé
Milan’s pasticcerias are as much a part of the city’s culinary identity as its osterias or wine bars. Mostly old fashioned and family run, what could a group of friends with a passion for pastry hope to add to an already so well established scene? Enter, Pavé. This hip pastry shop opened in 2012 after a group of three friends in their 30s had a dream of creating a place to celebrate good food in an informal atmosphere. Since then, it’s grown somewhat of a cult following, praised by titles such as the New York Times, as well as appearing on Gambero Rosso’s 50 best Italian pastry shops, eight years in a row. Bring your laptop and work from here in the day, enjoy a cup of quality coffee and relish ripping into laminated croissants, which at lunch time, are swapped for seasonal sandwiches served on home-baked sourdough bread. If you’re looking to indulge in one of Milan’s great traditions of flaky, buttery, baked treats but fancy finding somewhere with a little more chill, this is a local-approved spot not to miss.
The To-Do List
Villa Necchi Campiglio
As the English preserve their countryside stately homes, in Milan, the urban villas of noble families and notable designers are treated like precious jewels, making mini museums across the city. There really are so many to visit, but sitting firmly at the top of your list should be Villa Necchi Campiglio. Built in 1935 and designed by architect Piero Portaluppi, it was the home of the Necchi Campiglio family, part of the elegant upper classes who, post Second World War, wanted a place they could entertain fashionable guests and continue to climb the social ladder. Step inside and it’s easy to see why this grand abode was used in films such as I Am Love starring Tilda Swinton and House of Gucci led by Lady Gaga. The design mixes the bold, clean lines of the Art Deco era alongside fanciful furnishings left over from the 1800s; from huge chandeliers to gold-gilded seating and four-poster beds topped with elaborate satin canopies. Guests are wowed by the spacious entranceway’s walnut floor inlaid with rosewood and marble staircase, but you have to see the conservatory room with its curved green sofa and contrast piping. Don’t forget to venture to the bottom of the garden, where you’ll find an al fresco cafe whipping up fantastic espresso martinis to be sipped on chic garden furniture.
Fondazione Prada
You can’t go to Milan and not pay a visit to Fondazione Prada. Located just outside of the city centre, it takes a bit of a walk to get here, but it’s a rite of passage for any Milan new-comer. Founded in 1993, this beacon of the arts expresses Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli’s passion and belief in the importance of artistic and intellectual research – and how that can impact the lives of all. The site takes over a century-old gin distillery and unfolds across seven buildings, including a stunning, shimmering three-storey building covered entirely in gold leaf. As well as the exhibition spaces which show off everyone from Jeff Koons to Damien Hirst, you’ll find a cinema and library, where plenty of creatives can be spotted tapping away at their laptops. Then, there is, of course, Bar Luce – the all-day watering hole from director Wes Anderson, who added his signature touch to the cafe in 2015. With interiors that feature pastel-blocked Formica tables, a terrazzo floor and Steve Zissou–themed pinball machine, you’ll have to fight those capturing the experience on their phones for a table, but it’s worth it.
Aperitivo along Navigli Grande
You wouldn’t believe it now, but once upon a time, Milan was a city of waterways boasting an intricate map of canals criss-crossing throughout its centre. While old photographs show that this infrastructure only made the fashion capital even more beautiful, once the motor industry took off, it was thought that sealing them up to make way for more driveable roads made sense, and ensured Milan’s future as moving with the times. Today, the Navigli district is the only place you’ll find what’s left of that era, with two main canals leading into the city. The Navigli Grande doesn’t look like much in the daytime, but come twilight, the streets wake up and swarm with locals and tourists who want to snag a seat at the outdoor bars lining the water. It’s an atmospheric place to start your evening and, rumour has it, the city might even be planning to unearth some of the canals that still flow beneath your feet. So, perhaps in a few years, this won’t be the only waterside spot to sip a Spritz.
Where To Shop
Cabana Store
The cult-favourite read of interior designers everywhere, Cabana Magazine was co-founded by Martina Mondadori, a native Milanese. While she lived in London for a decade, 2018 saw her return to her home city, four years after starting Cabana. As well as curating the magazine, she’s put together a selection of interior collections which embody the brand’s spirit. The first-ever retail store can be found in Milan’s luxury shopping district, launching as part of Salone del Mobile and continuing to stay open throughout 2024. It’s a riot of colour and texture, with covetable vintage pieces sourced by the team, as well as Cabana-approved ceramics and gorgeous textiles.
La DoubleJ
Milan’s style is evident everywhere you look – daring, glamorous, playful and yet sophisticated. And, while paying a visit to the heritage fashion houses who have made Milan their home (read: Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Miu Miu and more) is a must, La DoubleJ is a brand which beautifully embodies this spirit and, better yet, was created as a love letter to Milan herself. Founded by American designer JJ Martin in 2015, she draws on over 20 years of living in Milan as inspiration for her collections, and says that Milanese women are her enduring muses. She’s even written a book on her love of the city and the creative journey it has set her on, Mama Milano. The flagship store sits on the stunning Via Sant’Andrea and features a ground floor filled to the brim with colourful designs, plus the subterranean Sacred Grotta, decorated with hand-painted wall murals and host to workshops and meditations. As for the clothes themselves, this is a store that maximalists will thrive in. Here, pattern clashing ready-to-wear sits next to rainbow-hued tableware; a wonderland for those who think more should always be more.
Bivio
Milan has a reputation for brilliant vintage stores – which you should absolutely check out – but Bivio offers a concept that’s a little different. In one of its three (soon-to-be four) stores, book an appointment to show staff your pre-loved items and they’ll give you a percentage of the re-sale value immediately, even before it’s sold. The team say they prioritise in-season clothing, a mix of high fashion and high street brands but never fast fashion, and thoroughly check every garment to ensure it’s perfect. The result is a diverse mix of new and old pieces, all in great condition, which benefit from the fantastic style the women of this city possess. You’ll discover something different every time you walk in, but on the brand’s Instagram you can see some of the best finds to whet your whistle. Think an OffWhite neutral-toned midi for €132, Gucci high heeled loafers for €420 and Missoni sunglasses for €99.
Bitossi Home
Bitossi Home in the chic Cinque Vie district is like a sweet shop for interiors fans – both in its colour scheme (with candy pops of pink, yellow and green) and its allure, which makes you want to reach out and grab everything in sight. The Bitossi name is famous in Italy and around the world, spanning five generations within the same family who run the company today, having founded the original factory in Florencein the early 1900s. But its story goes back even further than that, with Bitossi ancestors reported to have been potters and sculptors since the 1500s – proving that creation really is in the brand’s blood. Even so, their Milan boutique feels very much of the times and regularly invites contemporary artists and designers to collaborate on collections or display their works in the store. Laetitia Rouget’s tulip-shaped candlesticks look amazing next to Pangea’s illustrated plates, both of which complement Bitossi’s collections.
Lead image credit: La DoubleJ FW24 collection by Amina Marazzi Gandolfi
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