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48 Hours In...

A Thirty-Something Woman's Guide To AlUla In Saudi Arabia

“How do you feel about coming here? Scared? Or excited?” posed our inquisitive tour guide Abdulrahman. My partner and I had just arrived in the ancient desert oasis of AlUla in Saudi Arabia’s Hijaz region, marking my inaugural venture into the Middle East.

Saudi Arabia had never been on my travel radar, but when the opportunity arose to visit for my partner’s 30th birthday, I found myself open to exploring a new culture. I was particularly intrigued to explore the destination from the perspective of a female traveller, and eager to have my preconceptions challenged – especially given western media’s portrayal of women in the region.


Any initial biases were quickly dispelled. Saudi Arabia is not only incredibly welcoming, but also a country with a rich and largely unexplored tapestry of history and culture; with 200,000 years of human history, ancient tombs, and red sandstone cliffs beneath a vast sky.


As we stepped off the plane at AlUla, in the north west of the country, I was immediately struck by the sheer scale of its desert landscape – vast, untamed, and imbued with an almost mystical quality. We were greeted by our charming guide, Abdul, as he whisked us into a private transfer to our hotel. The journey was spent sat in awe, gazing out of the window at the unfolding terrain. The landscapes of AlUla are so strikingly otherworldly that they could be plucked from the pages of a fantasy novel; Petra-esque rock formations emerge from the expansive desert plains and meet archaeological wonders that evoke a sense of the supernatural.

Once a stopover for Nabataean traders, this thriving oasis is on the cusp of becoming Saudi Arabia’s most popular tourist destination. The destination opened to the world in 2019, as part of Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman’s Vision 2030 initiative to transition from an oil-dependent economy to a tourism-driven one. Leading the charge in luxury accommodations in AlUla is the Banyan Tree and Our Habitas AlUla, complemented by the newly inaugurated Dar Tantora The House Hotel, a remarkable transformation of 30 ancient mud houses into a historic haven in AlUla’s Old Town. Aman Resorts are poised to make their debut in both AlUla as well as in Wadi Safar, near Riyadh, and elsewhere, Six Senses has opened in The Red Sea, and the groundbreaking eco-city, Neom is underway in the Tabuk Province.


The To Do List

Destination specialists Abercrombie & Kent excel in curating bespoke, privately guided tours. Our guide was charismatic and knowledgeable, and the meticulously crafted itineraries ensured that we left feeling enriched and enlightened. As we travelled between historical sites, we listened to Abdul’s favourite Saudi artists (Mohammed Abdu, Rashid Almajid, Abdulmajeed Abdullah and Moudi Alshmrani), as we learned about his upbringing and the country’s cultural progression.

At every interaction, locals were wonderfully welcoming, with women often especially keen to express gratitude for our visit. At historical sites and natural landmarks – such as AlUla Old Town, Hegra and the AlUla Oasis – we were offered juicy dates with aromatic cardamom-infused Arabic coffee, along with refreshing lemon and mint juices.

One of the most illuminating aspects of our tour was hearing about the significant progress in women’s rights within Saudi Arabia. We delved into the transformative changes brought about by recent laws aimed at enhancing gender equality, and Abdul provided insightful commentary on recent reforms, such as the right to drive (2018) and greater involvement in the workforce.

 

A safari vehicle parked near the Nabataean tombs of Hegra

A safari vehicle parked near the Nabatean tombs of Hegra

Hegra, Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage site – often likened to Jordan’s Petra – boasts over 100 well-preserved Nabataean tombs with intricate façades carved into sandstone outcrops. Unlike Petra, you’ll find no queues here and you can explore the site by vintage Land Rover – or from the sky via hot air balloon. Adventurous travellers can hike to the mammoth-shaped and quite surreal Elephant Rock where you’ll find groups of locals gathering. Sunrise and sunset are the best time to visit.

Image credit: Josh Gulliver

We explored AlUla’s expansive open-air library of ancient rock inscriptions at Jabal Ikmah, an archaeological marvel and a spot that our female rawi (narrator) fondly recalled picnicking at as a child. We ventured to the lush oasis at the heart of AlUla, a thriving ecosystem boasting eco-friendly vegetable gardens, natural springs and towering palm trees yielding a bountiful date harvest. The Oasis Heritage Trail is a three-kilometre walking route, guiding you through a serene, palm-covered landscape and offering glimpses of verdant gardens, ancient irrigation systems and a diverse array of wildlife. I felt the oasis hum with a kind of gentle stillness unlike anything I’ve ever experienced before.

 

A view of one corner of the Maraya Concert Hall, the largest mirrored building in the world

A view of one corner of the Maraya Concert Hall, the largest mirrored building in the world, with two distinct landscapes reflected in the adjoining walls

Annual open-air exhibitions such as Desert X have been pivotal in reshaping the region’s cultural landscape, alongside permanent event spaces like Maraya, the world’s largest mirror-clad installation. Maraya not only functions as a restaurant and an event venue, but has also hosted performances by global artists including Alicia Keys. We visited on two separate occasions and from certain perspectives, the installation appears to dissolve into its desert surroundings. Our visit coincided with another open-air exhibition too, AlUla 1445 in the Old Town, which featured images by artist Hassan Hajjaj, who photographed local residents in February 2023 and whose work is renowned for merging contemporary art, fashion and cultural identity, featuring subjects including farmers, merchants and sport teams. In this unique outdoor installation, old met new, with Hajjaj’s artwork framed by a film set-worthy backdrop of decaying historic buildings and rocky mountains.


The Food + Drink

Two trays of dates set up with teapots and cups set on a traditional carpet

Two trays of dates set up with teapots and cups set on a traditional carpet

AlUla is fast becoming a culinary hot-spot with an oasis-to-plate ethos and an abundance of fresh local produce. Circolo, in the AlJadidah Arts District, offers al fresco dining with panoramic views across brilliant green valleys. Opt for the citrus and goat’s cheese salad, finished with a blood orange dressing.

Another standout spot – in AlUla’s Old Town, just a five-minute walk from Circolo – is Somewhere, where eclectic interiors meet a backdrop of palm trees and water features, alongside traditional Saudi cuisine such as slow-cooked meats and sharing platters. Don’t miss the restaurant’s signature dish, the towering Beef Shawarma Beetroot Rice.

Carved into the fabric of the Old Town, Noug sells a variety of camel-milk-based products and coffee.


What To Pack

Image credit: Josh Gulliver

A sunhat is essential when visiting AlUla, due to the sun-baked landscapes you’ll encounter. Opt for modest, long-sleeved clothing in linen or other lightweight fabrics to stay cool in the humidity, and comfortable trainers or walking boots are crucial for daytime exploring and hiking. Women should use a headscarf or hijab for visits to mosques or holy sites. Resort attire is more relaxed, allowing for bikinis and swimsuits by the pool.


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What to Pack

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