Located in a peaceful riverside spot and housed inside a former sail-maker’s warehouse, Fforest Albion is the first luxury hotel in the small Welsh town of Cardigan.
In the west of Wales – where you get a precious few extra minutes of daylight each evening – find Fforest Albion perched on the estuary of the River Teifi.
Located just a few minutes’ stroll to the town of Cardigan – where a tangle of pretty streets set around an old stone castle are packed with cafés and homeware shops – this hotel may come with all the mod-cons, but its charm lies in its playful take on local life and history.
The Vibe
A former warehouse making sails, maritime history is infused throughout. Rows of small, square windows decorate the outside of this huge, austere stone building, their glow a welcoming yellow at night. Zigzagging the inside of the building, walkways to the rooms are long wooden gangways revealing ship-like bedrooms.
On arrival, you’ll enter into a bar and reception area: somewhat of the hotel’s hub where, during the day, you might sip on a hot pot of tea in a bright blue enamel teapot. By evening expertly-crafted cocktails are shaken up and served alongside local cider.
The Rooms
Photo: Heather Birnie
The first thing you notice in any of the 12 cosy guestrooms is the smell of rich wood; it’s that of the old, reclaimed planks used throughout that give a golden glow to the bedrooms. Low ceilings give the feeling of a ship’s cabin, and beds are covered in thick, locally woven blankets. All rooms are en-suite, bathrooms divided by a Japanese-style screen, lined in turquoise tiles, and kitted out with Aesop shampoo, conditioner and body wash. It’s a pleasing concoction of texture throughout, and one that makes you feel instantly at home – ready to slip into a deep sleep.
The Food + Drink
Photo: Heather Birnie
The hotel doesn’t offer lunch or dinner, but the breakfast more than makes up for it. Served in a long, wooden-clad room on the first floor (and with beautiful views across the neighbouring river) it’s a Scandinavian smorgasbord of morning treats. Alongside boiled eggs and avocados are homemade fresh sourdough loaves, beetroot hummus, kimchi, homemade cinnamon granola and rhubarb compote. You’ll even find tinned herring and sardines to start the day. We heaped up bowls of granola and yogurt, followed by a rainbow sample of savoury treats, going back for seconds (and thirds). Come evening, cocktails are shaken in the downstairs bar – opt for the margarita with coriander oil or the non-alcoholic old fashioned with shavings of chocolate and bitter orange.
The Little Extras
Photo: Heather Birnie
Everything about the hotel feels like a little extra touch. Quirky mermaid doorhandles meet old apothecary glass bottles behind the bathroom sinks. Like the rest of the furnishings, details here have been thought through carefully and are designed to take you back in time, revealing the history of the building. In the bar, we played old-fashioned games such as Spillikins and dominos, and loved leafing through the weekend papers and magazines over breakfast.
The To-Do List
Photo: Finn Beales
The ancient town of Cardigan may be small, but it has some wonderful options if you’re looking for a special meal or a great pub in which to unwind with the locals. Next to the hotel is the Castle Inn Pub, which Fforest restored and re-opened in December 2023. It has the same echoes of old reclaimed wood as the hotel, but some slick red paint accents – order a Wrexham lager or local Fforest gin and listen to the lively bilingual conversations around you. Five minutes’ walk from the hotel is Boys and Girls – a small dinner spot with a wonderfully high standard of food; we started with asparagus smothered in wild garlic pesto before trying the crispy fish burgers and finishing with a Basque cheesecake. Cross the river to Pizzatipi, a local favourite, for wood-fired pizzas.
The real draw of the hotel though is the astonishing coastal walks nearby – snaking along the Ceredigion coastal path to the east, and the Pembrokeshire coastal path to the west. Trails follow curved, wildflower-lined paths with vast vistas of the Atlantic. And don’t miss Mwnt beach, where an ancient white stone church sits above a sandy cove home to porpoises.
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