A country of two halves, St. Maarten is a very special island. One that has a particularly special meaning to me. I fell in love first (with my now husband), and then I discovered St Maarten, and later fell in love with the island.
I first visited this island in 2017 to visit my future family. Half-Dutch and half-French, this 37 square mile island fits two nations into one, a simple bump in the road or small bridge to differentiate between the two; currency, phone network, and sometimes even language changes instantly, with no border control, yet both independently governed. It’s an island with the whitest beaches, and with areas of the Dutch capital, Philipsburg, filled with cobblestone streets and colourful, colonial-style buildings, and the French side (part of the European Union) brimming with phenomenal restaurants and beach clubs.
Admittedly without a huge amount to choose from in the luxury hospitality category on the island at the time of my first visit, I stayed at a property called the Westin on the Dutch side. A pleasant proposition. Now, JW Marriott has planted its roots here making its luxury debut with its first ever Caribbean beach property in the spot of the original Westin. This itself is a moment to note, showcasing something of a hotel renaissance for St. Maarten, which in the last few years has welcomed several new resorts. You’ll find the island filled with Dutch and French tourists (often loyal and regular visitors); residents who have moved here; European holiday makers who regularly visit the island instead of the South of France; and very friendly American tourists who make this a regular jaunt – or who have bought secondary homes. You could say St Maarten is a shabby chic Caribbean St Tropez, and there’s a real beauty to the calm naturalness that comes with this.
Located on the Dutch Caribbean island country’s glorious Dawn Beach, about 30 minutes from Princess Juliana Airport, the 200-room JW Marriott pays homage to the island’s rich Dutch architectural heritage but offers guests plenty of natural views too, including the sparkling sea and views of St. Barths to the southeast.
Arrive at the hotel and you are welcomed by a majestic two-story stone clad tower and, inside, the property unfolds into a series of inviting spaces, beginning with a welcoming grand lobby adorned with a library, lounge, and an elegant JW Bar.
The Rooms
Across the 200 guest rooms, there’s a sense of calm with neutral palettes, a focus on the sea views and clear blue skies. Every guest room features a private balcony, interiors infused with natural wood finishes and plush bedding – very cooling after days out exploring or lounging poolside. The gloriously large rain shower or exquisitely deep relaxing bathtubs (in very large bathrooms( are just perfect to wash off the salty hues from ocean dipping and sandy afternoons with Aromatherapy Associates amenities. The rooms provide a very comfortable base for longer stays, particularly if travelling with groups of friends or families. You may even want to splurge and treat yourself to the Presidential Suite which starts from $1200/night.
The Dining
St Maarten is a surprising destination when it comes to food – it certainly came as a surprise to me – but you’ll find some of the best food from globally renowned chefs. The hotel fares well in the food and beverage scene. It has five dining concepts, starting from the all-day Lobby Bar, the hub of the hotel with creative mixologists expertly preparing drinks exclusive to the bar – including a thirst-quenching Gin-Z, ideal for the warmer Caribbean climes. The deli-style all-day eatery Carambola opens from breakfast to dinner and is an easy dining option for laid-back fayre, locally referred to as “flip-flop fine dining”.
And for a more extravagant affair, the fine-dining Liguria features Mediterranean food, and uses ingredients from the JW Garden, including their own basil, grape tomatoes, cherry tomatoes and more (also incorporated into the pastry chef’s house-baked Focaccia that’s worth a try). At the pool, Breeze is perfectly positioned with unobstructed views of the Atlantic Ocean to the east and the Caribbean Sea to the west, serving poolside favourites and, of course, cocktails and frozen libations that feature garnishes from the JW Garden. And sip your favourite cocktails without ever leaving the water at the swim-up Liquid Pool Bar. Perhaps my favourite part is the culinary school where you can participate in a cooking class (a great group activity to book) and enjoy your dining with chefs for added island fun.
Wellbeing
Pools and beaches are of course a highlight of any Caribbean trip. This particular property has the largest infinity pool in St Maarten, surrounded by plenty of seating, plus direct step access to Dawn Beach – the ethereal blues and whites of the water matched by the beach cabanas and an ideal spot to enjoy fresh juices and coconut water all day long.
And to add to your daily wellbeing routine, wake up with the sunrise and enjoy complimentary yoga by the beach (6 to 6:45am), water aerobics (9 to 10am), and meditation sessions. Spa days are intertwined with beach days at the Hibiscus Spa, and its not short of space. There are 16 treatment rooms with Ayurvedic treatments and scrubs using local fruits and flowers as well as a Valmont treatment menu. The well-equipped and spacious gym is also available for those wanting to stay fit indoors in sufficient air conditioning.
The Little Extras
A small kids’ club is available welcoming families, along with the option of family and interconnecting rooms, and a family friendly pool (with no restricted times for children).
The To-Do List
St Maarten is a great base to island hop, and serves as the main airport for so many nearby islands. I’d highly recommend enjoying day trips to Anguilla (take lunch at Straw Hat for beachside lunching) and St. Barths (shopping in Gustavia and lunch at several hotspots for people watching, beaches and easy beachside dining).
St Maarten is a duty-free island so watch and jewellery lovers rejoice, you’ll find plenty of beautiful pieces at excellent prices on a walk down Front Street. Grand Case is a small town on the French side, with a long sandy beach, particularly well known for its many restaurants and beach bars; Rainbow Cafe and Calmos are particular favourites for sunset drinks or Sunday brunching.
Mini excursions close to St Maarten are also a treat; take a trip to Tintamarre for snorkelling and the opportunity to bring out your inner Robinson Crusoe. It’s very likely you’ll spot some turtles and stingrays swimming in the crystalline waters near the boats. Pinel Island is a perfect little paradise and Natural Reserve, where you can pick your own lobster at Karibuni (meaning ‘welcome’ in Swahili), eat caramelised pineapple and take dips in the ocean in between courses.
Outdoor adventures are aplenty, too. For those willing to go off the beaten path, hike to the natural pool between Point Blanche and Guana Bay. It is a moderate 2.6 km hike that leads to a pristine natural pool great for picnics or a private swim, and is well worth the effort. Plus, adrenaline junkies, did you know St. Maarten offers the steepest zip-line in the world? If you dare zip down the Flying Dutchman, you’ll get 360-degree views of neighbouring islands Saba, St. Barths, Anguilla, and St Kitts. All this, plus plenty of beaches and beach clubs, some of the finest food you’ll enjoy, to wind down alongside a cocktail or two of course.
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