Kalutara is perhaps Sri Lanka’s most understated little city that no one has heard of.
Sitting just 43 kilometres south of the commercial capital Colombo, Kalutara gets its name from Kalu Ganga (Black River), one the island’s four major rivers, which joins the sea from its very centre. The Kalutara Bridge links the southern and western counties and the city is mostly famous for the Buddhist temple, along its main road. It’s one of the most revered places in Sri Lanka outside the Cultural Triangle further north.
STAY
Anantara Kalutara Resort
Anantara Kalutara Resort sits at the edge of the lagoon where Kalu Ganga meets the Indian Ocean. The Resort pays homage to the district’s most famous resident: Sri Lankan architect Geoffery Bawa. Terracotta-tiled rooftops slope down heavily to open courtyards, while wide verandahs take you around the buildings, exposing you to the elements as you walk by, and everywhere you turn, wild and undisturbed nature stares right back at you. Each of the 141 rooms and suites offer a view of the lagoon, garden or the ocean. Our lagoon view room was spectacular with Kalu Ganga gently flowing past and sunshine streaming through glass doors onto our terrace. A striking bath looked down to the river below, walk-in wardrobe and a logical layout of the room, complemented by soft sheets and plump pillows made for the most comfortable and serene stay.
EAT + DRINK
Olu
Olu is the resort’s restaurant which offers buffet-style breakfast and dinner as well as an à la carte menu for all three meals. The restaurant’s Sri Lankan breakfast offer was a standout experience with staples such as hoppers and egg hoppers made fresh and served with sambols (a traditional Sri Lankan dish made from coconut). Dinner was themed Sri Lankan, Asian, Arab and Italian and all of it was served with the greatest flair using abundant local ingredients.
The restaurant skirts the edge of the building with wide open windows offering views of the pool, garden and lagoon. Service is swift, efficient and friendly; multilingual staff ensure that all visitors feel welcome and requests are dealt with quickly.
Spice Traders
Spice Traders, the resort’s Chinese restaurant, reminds diners that amongst so many other things, Kalutara was also once a major spice trading port. The Chinese community of Sri Lanka has been established on the island since the 17th century. As such, the cuisine often combines Sri Lankan spices with Chinese cooking methods to deliver outrageously good food. Diners can enjoy the best of it here at Spice Traders as prepared by Anantara Kalutara Resort’s chefs.
Dining By Design
Dining by Design lets visitors tailor their dining experience with the spectacular surroundings of the resort. Whether a take-away tapas picnic, a sunset barbecue or riverside table for two, the on-demand service is perfect for celebrations. With a boardwalk that leads to a romantic swing over the river, a treehouse and a secluded beach, you’ll be spoilt for choice and Dining By Design caters to it all.
To Do
Lunuganga
A visit to Anantara Kalutara Resort would be incomplete without a trip to Lunuganga – Geoffrey Bawa’s 36 acre home which is less than an hour’s ride from the resort. A transfer for the visit can be pre-arranged through the hotel. Lunuganga, Bawa’s weekend retreat, offers an insight into the life of the man behind the name. Lunuganga (Salty River in reference to the brackish water of the nearby estuary), is a celebration of Bawa’s life as much as it is of the landscape. Wild ferns sprawl across the vast gardens, carefully placed buildings decorated with intricate woodwork of local craftsmen appear and disappear behind majestic trees, while moss-covered steps lead to lily ponds, reminiscent of those at Sigiriya, as Bawa dictates not only what we see but how we see it. It is worth noting that on Bawa’s death in 2003, as per his last request, his ashes were scattered around Lunuganga.
Kalutara Chaitya
A first stop in all pilgrimages towards Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle (Kandy, Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa), this imposing and glistening white stupa is unique in that its interior contains 74 murals depicting Sri Lankan fables. The bright and colourful stories are a wonderful way to experience Sri Lanka’s Buddhist history and culture, especially if your time is limited. It is customary to stop here and make an offering of flowers or money as a mark of respect and good luck for your onward journey. As such, long lines of cars and coaches line the main road leading towards the temple as they slow down or stop to honour it.
Anantara Spa In Kalutara
The spa at Anantara offers Ayurvedic treatments in the luxurious setting of Anantara. Our 60 minute Abhyanga treatment started with a consultation to determine the chakra (pitta) which needed to be better balanced with the vata chakra. Sarshapadi and Pinda Thailam oils were then used to stimulate the muscles through rhythm and pressure to achieve the rebalance. The treatment ends with jasmine tea served with a final brief consultation encouraging further treatment as per Ayurvedic tradition.
Image credits Anantara Kalutara
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