YFES Kythnos is not the kind of hotel you simply stumble across; this discreet hideaway is reserved for those in the know. And trust us, you’ll want to know.
“We have a church for every family,” our driver laughs as we bundle our way along the winding roads from Kythnos port to Flambouria Bay. With just over 1,500 residents and more than 200 churches on the island, he’s only partially joking.
Greece has had a summer in the spotlight, with droves of international tourists (an estimated 35 million) returning to old favourites (hello Mykonos and Santorini), as well as casting their sights towards its lesser-known islands including Kea, Tinos and Hydra. But Kythnos? Kythnos is different.
Despite its proximity to Athens – it’s less than a two-hour ferry ride from Lavrio Port – this island is still hidden from the mass-tourism radar. And happily so, instead content with the slower summer trickle of Greek tourists, many of whom stay in the main town.
Zigzagging our way across the mountains towards Flambouria Bay, I begin to realise just how different this weekend getaway will be from others I’ve taken across the Greek islands. The twists and turns of its roads may stretch twenty or so miles from tip to toe, but I only spot a handful of other cars ambling along them. I definitely spot more churches. One at every pinpoint turn of the road, it seems.
The Vibe
Life moves at a leisurely pace at YFES. While many hotels claim to be at one with nature, YFES really means it.
In Greek, yfēs means ‘textures’ and, built cliffside using stone, wood, clay and other natural materials (much reclaimed from the very land it sits on) this is a space that is less at one with nature than a part of the very nature it calls home.
The striking infinity pool is the star of the show, hovering on the edge of a cliff overlooking Flambouria Bay – a large swathe of rocky land surrounding an untouched beach cove below. So remote is the beach that from my poolside location, I count only four people lounging on its sand.
If Kythnos is off the beaten track, YFES at Flambouria Bay is on a different map.
The Rooms
With just ten suites, the peaceful atmosphere of both the island and the bay is imbibed throughout the hotel. Even at full capacity, this is a space that will never feel overcrowded, and will always feel tranquil.
Decor is modern and – perhaps as expected – displays a series of neutral, earthy tones and textures; from the rattan-wardrobes and pendant lights, to the stone sink and the chunky wooden bedside tables.
Half of the rooms come with an outdoor Jacuzzi. All have sea views and shuttered windows that are best left open at night, the sound of lapping waves lulling you to sleep. The spacious outdoor terrace in our Sea View Suite was a welcome spot for morning coffee, while inside, the room is divided into two: a living area and a cosy bedroom with plenty of made-in-Greece products. Olive Era in the bathroom; Kirpoglou dressing gowns; and hand-spun clay mugs by Athens-based G&N Mamidas Ceramics.
The Food + Drink
Expertly presented dishes are served on hand-crafted ceramics in the hotel’s intimate poolside restaurant-bar. Following the lead of the rest of the hotel (pool, restaurant, bedrooms), dining here is all about the view. We’ve had many a meal with a seascape: this one not only overlooks the water below, it blows all the others out of it too. Plans to expand the menu are afoot, as are further dining options – including a new restaurant space and private catering in a secluded spot.
The Little Extras
Follow the signs to the secret sun deck, Kryfo, which means ‘hidden’ in Greek, for a back-to-nature dip in the bay’s blue waters – you’ll enter via a small, private step ladder from a concrete platform accessible only by hotel guests. Though this bay never seems to be busy, entering its waters from here all but guarantees you’ll be the only people nearby. Sundecks and craft cocktails await back on dry land.
The To-Do List
Nearby? Not much. But that’s the point. Lazy mornings are spent flitting between your outdoor terrace, the hotel’s restaurant, and the striking infinity pool with views across the calming bay. The hide-away-from-it-all location means there’s not much to do in the local area, save a small taverna, a café, a duo of beaches and a picture-perfect church perched on a cliffside overlooking the water.
If you can be enticed away from your sun lounger (we couldn’t!), ask the friendly staff about activities on offer, which range from boat tours of the bay and beyond, pottery-making workshops and beach yoga. Or hire a car to explore the 65 beaches dotted around the island: the most famous is Kolona, a narrow stretch of sand flanked by the sea on both sides – access is by boat from the island’s main port.
Kolona Beach, Kythnos
Every Greek island has a main town – known as ‘chora’ – and for a quiet island, the chora of Kythnos is surprisingly lively during the summer months. Start an evening here with a drink at The Kraken (somewhat of a Kythnos right of passage), followed by dinner at one of the town’s many restaurants. You’ll come across plenty of options as you wind through its pretty streets, but it’s worth seeking out Giagia Koukou a few streets back from the main path. This kitsch-chic restaurant (giagia means ‘grandma’ in Greek) serves al fresco plates of Greek favourites with a twist, such as a watermelon salad with avocado cream, feta mousse, nuts and onion, and a cheese pie with vanilla honey, saffron and mango gel. End your evening with a nightcap in Margiora for some of the best cocktails on the island set to cool tunes – and an even cooler crowd.
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