Join our inner circle to get the latest in travel, beauty, style & more !

We respect your privacy. Unsubscribe anytime.

Travel

Discover Starry Skies At This Peaceful Resort On A Protected Japanese Island

Far from the bright lights and speedy trains of Honshu, Okinawa prefecture in Japan’s far south is a collection of sandy beaches and surfable waves that are closer to Taipei than Tokyo.

With 160 islands to choose from, it can be hard to know where to start, but if you’re seeking secluded nature and starry night skies, the Yaeyama Islands are the place to go. Comprising 23 islands, only 12 of which are inhabited, the archipelago is home to the Iriomote-Ishigaki Dark Sky Park – Japan’s first DarkSky-certified starry preserve.



Secluded Hoshinoya Taketomi Island is a zen-like refuge of quiet luxury on the eponymous island – a 5.42-square-kilometre protected, heritage island with a population of around 350 people. Taketomi is one of Japan’s architectural preservation districts, and the island has its own constitution, which rigorously protects the natural environment and cultural traditions. Owned by Hoshino Resorts, a heritage Japanese hospitality brand dating back to 1914, Hoshinoya Taketomi Island opened in 2012 after a lengthy consultation process with the locals to ensure that the property would comply with the island’s ethos.

Visited mostly by day-trippers, an overnight stay on Taketomi is particularly coveted to enjoy the atmosphere when everything quiets down and the stars come out.


The Vibe

Hoshinoya Taketomi Island

The resort was designed by architect Rie Azuma and landscape artist Hiroki Hasegawa, who spent time living on the island learning the traditional lifestyle and architecture, much of which is informed by the South Pacific wind and weather patterns. The resort comprises a series of single-storey, low-rise bungalows tucked into native ferns, flowers and trees. The layout respects the property’s old-growth trees, some of which are several hundred-year-old mangrove trees. Buildings mimic the design of Taketomi’s historic village homes, making use of traditional red-tile roofs reinforced with coral-sand concrete and surrounded by dry stone walls. Encircled by a reef, Taketomi’s topsoil is made of gleaming white coral sand, which has been used to pave the resort’s walkways.

 

Pool side terrace at Hoshinoya Taketomi Island

Pool side terrace at Hoshinoya Taketomi Island

The property’s centrepiece is its oval swimming pool surrounded by sloping grass embankments and overlooked by the dining room and lounge. The pool has been lined with dark tiles so the water reflects the sky both day and night. The lighting design respects the island’s dark-sky status – pathways are illuminated with low, shielded, warm-toned lights that cultivate an air of romance and allow millions of stars to shine through as the Milky Way gleams overhead each night.


The Rooms

Gajoni villa at Hoshinoya Taketomi Island

Each of the resort’s 48 villas matches the island’s style, so as you walk in, you feel like you’re entering a Japanese home. Shoes come off at the sliding front door and cushy slippers are provided to pad around the dark-wood floors. Sliding doors in the front and back of the villas can be opened to take advantage of the island’s cross-breezes that create natural air conditioning. A large, futon-style sofa begs you to flop down in the open-plan living area and watch the bees flutter about the pink hibiscus and bougainvillaea flowering in your private courtyard.

A freestanding feature bathtub overlooks the courtyard – locally-made bath salts are provided. Settle in at just the right angle and you can watch the Milky Way rise while you soak. A separate bedroom is a quiet haven at the back of the villa, with a luxe version of a Japanese-style floor-mattress bed and sliding bamboo door to make you feel like you’re in a traditional ryokan inn.


The Food + Drink

Dinner at Nouvelle Ryukyu, Hoshinoya Taketomi Island

As its name suggests, restaurant Nouvelle Ryukyu offers an elegant menu that combines traditional Okinawan flavours and ingredients with French cooking styles. The dining room is a minimalist, zenlike space with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the pool. Traditional sanshin lute music plinks through the speakers, creating a spa-like atmosphere. Seasonal set menus take advantage of local produce, fish and the Wagyu beef that Okinawa has become so famous for. For example, the eight-course ‘Island Terroir’ menu includes clever fusions like Okinawan red mustard leaf soup (shimana) with turban-shell flan and local Wagyu roast beef coated with crumbled chinsuko, a sweet butter biscuit that has been popular in Okinawa since the Ryukyu Kingdom (1429–1879). A thoughtfully curated sake list can be paired.

In-room dining at Hoshinoya Taketomi Island

The dining room has limited seating, so in-room dining is encouraged from an à la carte menu that includes must-try island dishes, including soki soba – the local pork belly noodles – and a type of seaweed called umibudou (‘sea grapes’). Breakfast is an equally clever mix of island seafood, porridges and grains with a few thoughtful Western options, like eggs and pancakes.


The Little Extras

Hoshinoya Spa

In the villas, each guest is provided with two sets of garments – a traditional Japanese samue loungewear set with a pair of flip flop-like geta footwear, which can be worn anywhere around the resort, as well as a set of cosy pyjamas just for use in the room. The onsite Hoshinoya Spa manages to be an even more relaxing space than the rest of the resort, with a menu of options like the ‘Yukui’ full body treatment designed to evoke the wave-like movements of the ocean through massage and treatments of the back, legs, arms, head and a foot bath. Other treatments utilise local seaweeds to tend to body stresses and ailments.

Another highlight of the property is the Yuntaku Lounge, a serene space with tables and futon floor seating overlooking the pool. A bar here serves drinks and tea, homemade banana ice cream and a variety of awamori, an alcoholic rice wine unique to Okinawa. In the evening, a stroll up to the resort’s lookout pavilion offers views over the Pacific Ocean and the Milky Way – the perfect place for a romantic moment or a night-sky photography session.


The To-Do List

Night skies on Taketomi Island

Several evening activities offer a chance to see the island’s protected, dark and starry skies. A sunset ride on a traditional sabani sailing boat gives a perfect view of the sea, or you can sign up for a full night cruise on a modern boat to see the twinkling stars and moon. A popular way to explore the island is on a tour in a carriage pulled by water buffalo – the traditional method of transport on tiny Taketomi Island. Tours take place in the morning or evening, the latter offering the chance to take in the island’s quiet atmosphere after day-trippers have left. 

The ‘Tinnu Deep Breathing’ activity brings guests to the poolside for a meditative deep breathing session that asks you to contemplate the cosmos and cultivates full relaxation before sleep. Afterwards, you’re given an inflatable pillow and set to float and stargaze in the heated pool. By day, you can learn traditional island crafts, such as weaving and ceramics, from local masters.

 

Kondoi Beach, Taketomi Island

Kondoi beach, Taketomi islands

There is also snorkelling and diving in the protected coral reef that surrounds the island. The resort runs a dedicated shuttle van with stops all over the island, including the popular Kondoi Beach for swimming. The island is also small enough that walking and cycling are possible in cooler weather. With a few extra days, the resort can organise day trips to neighbouring islands, such as the bigger and wilder Iriomote Island, where you can explore tropical forests and spot wild cats.


All image credit: Hoshinoya Taketomi

We may earn a commission if you buy something from any affiliate links on our site.

What to Pack

You May Also Like

Any Questions or Tips to add?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Share
What to Pack?