On the banks of the river Charentes, France, in the pretty amber-toned town of Cognac is Hotel Chais Monnet + Spa, a sublime five-star retreat that manages to feel both grand and low-key – and ever so French.
It’s set in a renovated former 19th-century Cognac distillery, whose new design mixes historic architecture with industrial style for a unique aesthetic. The fact it’s within staggering distance of all the famous Cognac houses, and just one and a half hours from Bordeaux, are reasons alone to book a weekend here.
The Vibe
Arrival at historic Hotel Chais Monnet + Spa oozes contemporary French farmhouse flair. This starts the moment you enter through its large gates, and head along the winding drive past pristine landscaped gardens. A historic French manor house is tucked in to one side, while opposite, a spacious cobbled courtyard flanks the old historic distillery entrance. From here, it’s a dreamy short walk – along a shady sandstone path flanked by a trickling architectural water feature filled with plants – to the main hotel in the renovated building with glassy vaulted atrium. This neutrally decorated building sets the tone for the hotel’s transformation. In the centre, there’s a dramatic glass spiral staircase. Vintage Citroën 2CVs are parked up outside, while inside pots brim with fresh white orchids, chess boards rest on tables next to plush sofas and walls are filled with modern art. Over in one corner hides a plush, thickly carpeted reception area.
The Rooms
©Guillaume de Laubier
Bags of space and contemporary French farmhouse style are hallmarks of each of Hotel Chais Monnet + Spa’s 92 rooms and suites, spread across various buildings. Those in the old house are set off long, tranquil cream-carpeted corridors and have plenty of original character, like beamed ceilings and glass doors that open onto a lawned terrace. Rooms in the new house enjoy abundant natural light from floor-to-ceiling glass. Overall, the décor mixes soothing neutrals of creams and beiges, while bathrooms are painted light green or blue, and have huge walk-in showers. King beds dressed in high-thread-count linens offer superior comfort. A further four homely, one, two and three-bedroom apartments fill another building on the estate, with the same modern French farmhouse feel.
The Food + Drink
A former cooperage is the setting for a cocktail-shaking jazz bar, Le 1838. It has a mezzanine devoted to bottles of Cognac – over 330 different brands including single batch and limited-edition Cognacs – and is the spot for a pre-dinner cocktail or nightcap alongside a spot of live jazz. Try the signature Our Neck 2.0: a long, refreshing mix of Cognac VS, house-made infusion of rosemary and cucumber, and ginger ale. In summer, the hotel’s second bar, Le Rooftop offers dreamy views over Cognac. For dining, there are two options.
La Distilleries brasserie occupies the top floor of the old ageing cellar, with wooden beams, black accents, and a light-filled conservatory. On the menu, dishes like tuna tartare are artfully presented on giant plates. It’s a popular spot among locals and hotel guests for weekend brunch. At one end of the space, it’s fun to look down through a big window onto Les Foudres – unless you’re lucky enough, of course, to be dining there – a semi-subterranean Michelin-starred restaurant in the heart of the cellar, where white-clothed tables across three carpeted dining rooms are set for intimate several-course meals.
The Spa
Visit the spa for a dip in the fabulous L-shaped indoor-outdoor pool, part of it designed with a roof that retracts come summer. There are four treatment rooms, a gym, sensory shower, hammam, sauna, Jacuzzi, and even a selection of children’s treatments on offer for those over three.
The Little Extras
Nothing is any trouble for the attentive staff at Hotel Chais Monnet + Spa. From making sure guests depart with little bags of madeleines and offering excellent recommendations for things to see and places to eat in town, to organising experiences, which include gourmet bike rides or boat tours along the Charente River, armed with a picnic from the hotel’s chef. Or hire one of the vintage Citroën 2CVs to explore local markets, food producers, vineyards and countryside.
The To-Do List
Walkable Cognac, with its charming old cobbled streets, independent shops, cafés, bars and restaurants is minutes from the hotel. The most obvious activity here is Cognac tasting at one of the houses. There are several to choose from close by, but the Hennessy experience is unique for the chance to take a boat ride along the Charente River to its historic cellars and take a Virtual Reality history tour.
All image credit: Hotel Chais Monnet + Spa
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