Unison cries of ‘welcome’ in Japanese greet us as we step through the doors of RAI; and just like that, we’re immediately immersed in the amiable atmosphere of Bloomsbury’s reopened Japanese establishment.
We continue to hear this warm welcome as guests trickle into RAI over the course of the evening. The busy chef, sommelier, and waitresses pause from their meticulous work to greet each and every person; a friendly hospitality that precedes the personal attention we receive with every dish. With three menus on offer, including the Tasting Menus, the À La Carte Menu, and the popular Omakase Sushi Experience, RAI is akin to an immersive performance rather than just an exceptionally good meal. With each menu, all your senses – touch, taste, texture, scent and sight – will be delighted.
From the animated atmosphere to the art-like dishes and the Japanese garden-inspired interiors, to the generous pricing of the menus, this is not like any other restaurant in London. Welcome to RAI.
In partnership with RAI.
The Lowdown
Down a quiet street in Bloomsbury, just off the busy throes of London’s shopping district, a modest entrance gives way to the quietly opulent RAI. By executive chef Padam Raj Rai and director Shrabaneswor Rai, this is a spot you’re sure to bookmark.
Forget the noise of central London, inside RAI is an intimate affair. Designed akin to a traditional Japanese garden, a small purple maple tree hangs over the threshold with another tucked by the floor to ceiling window, rubbing shoulders with a quiet, trickling fountain replenished with greenery. There is no loud focal point, instead you’re met with a serene table scape reminiscent of a far-flung spot away from the cries of the Capital. Plus, with only five tables seating up to ten guests alongside eight seats at the sushi counter, all attention here is placed on the menus.
There are three menus to choose from: Tasting Menus, perfect for trying a seasonal variety; the À La Carte Menu if you’d like to select your own dishes; and the popular Omakase Sushi Experience (hard to refuse as one of London’s best-priced Omakase). Each menu starts with the highest-quality ingredients from the Hyogo Prefecture Kobe and is finished with the creative, artisanal flourish of Chef Padam Rai’s hand, meaning every single one of the three menus is the correct choice at RAI – it’s impossible to go wrong.
We opted for the Omakase menu meaning ‘I’ll leave the details up to you’, and 13 courses later (although you can opt for 9 or 11) of some of the best Japanese dishes we have ever eaten, we are perfectly content that we left it up to Chef Padam.
What To Order
Our evening begins with a sparkling pink wine with notes of succulent honeysuckle, paired with a Maldon rock oyster adorned with fish eggs and soy sauce aged for five-years in a 100-year-old cedar barrel to whet the appetite, delicately served on a bed of pebbles. It’s these unique pairings – like honeysuckle with oyster – that prolong the intrigue with every course that arrives and subtly demonstrates the artisanal flare of RAI’s team. Across the three menus, every dish is introduced to you and explained personally by the chef, who outlines the ingredients, flavours, and how best to eat it – sometimes by hand. Meanwhile, our sommelier enquires “which spirits you do enjoy?” to gauge our preferred palettes – whether dry, sweet or otherwise – before pairing a perfect, savoury Sake with our scallops course (hand-dived in Orkney, Scotland, and a highlight of the Tasting Menu) to enhance the delicate flavours.
RAI may be a small restaurant, but the menus are extensive. Meander through the long list of Chef Padam’s fresh dishes at your own ease via the À La Carte offering, including seafood snacks for sharing, followed by three styles of sushi (rolls, special rolls, and classic style) as well as a selection of cold fish carpaccio and sashimi dishes and hot dishes of meat and fish alike. A selection of salads and soups is also offered to enjoy on their own or as side dishes; the enoki mushroom and tofu miso soup with its rich umami flavours is the perfect accompaniment to the salmon with butternut sauce and kombu oil, available to order as a hot dish. While the À La Carte mainly consists of fresh fish and meats, there are vegetable-focussed options too, including the grilled aubergine served with truffle Saikyo miso – a standout option that’s bound to impress meat-lovers and vegetarians alike.
You’ll also not want to miss out on the Seasonal Tasting Menu. The best thing about this menu? It is adapted throughout the year in order the champion the very best produce available, so there’s always an excuse (not that you need one, of course) to return to RAI. Choose between one of the two tasting menus – new Style and Classics & Signatures – for eight incredible courses. Just when you think you’ve found your new favourite dish, a new one arrives, though the smoked eel topped with the citrus hints of yuzu gel, cut through with the crisp saltiness of the caviar is one we won’t bet forgetting for a long time. Plus, those with ‘sweet tooths’ will be more than pleased to hear that the meal is concluded by two desserts; a genmaicha poached peach with a fragrant yuzu cream for the New Style menu and pound cake for the Classics & Signatures, both followed by burnt lemon pie with umeshu (made with Ume plums) jelly.
Performed right in front of you, each plate demonstrates a different level of craftsmanship, one better than the next, as wasabi grown for three years at the foot of Mount Fuji is finely grated to release its strong aroma whilst fresh sushi is stamped with hot coal for a charred flavour. Fresh yellowtail melts away in the mouth, leaving behind subtle notes of clementine on the À La Carte menu, whilst A5 Kobe or Kagoshima wagyu beef can be added to the Tasting Menu and Omakase experience for that extra oomph. There are occasional notes of the UK too, including fresh gratings of English truffle over eel sushi and organic British chocolate truffles for dessert. The drama of these flavour combinations finds a perfect match with the artistic presentation of the plates, some served atop wood boughs amongst moss and red flowers – reminiscent of a Japanese garden.
With every plate that arrives comes a Japanese joie de vivre that feels as though its come straight from the bustling backstreets of Japan’s cities. It’s here that Chef Padam’s 22 years of experience at the award-winning Nobu, Sake no Hana, Tsukiji (and more) sings through.
Who To Bring
RAI is not a place for the crowds. Indulge in the intimacy here by bringing a close friend or a date. A seat at the sushi counter overlooking Chef Padam at work is sure to afford that extra feeling of novelty a birthday or anniversary deserves, as you celebrate a personal event alongside the joy that really good food brings, all at once. Plus, whether you opt for the Creative Tasting Menus, the À La Carte Menu, or the Omakase Sushi Experience, you’ll leave with a new found appreciation for Japanese cuisine in all its exquisite forms, so bring someone who will enjoy this one-of-a-kind experience just as much as you.
The Dress Code
There is no strict dress code, but an evening here is the kind you don’t ever forget, so you’ll want to dress as such. RAI is not hidden away but rather modestly proud at its new spot in Bloomsbury. Reflect this in your outfit with a chic blouse and special piece of jewellery.
All photo credit: RAI London
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