Within easy reach of the hustle and bustle of glamorous Taormina, this boutique countryside bolthole, nestled between sweet-smelling orange groves, is steeped in Sicilian wine-making history.
A majestic rosy-hued manor house and former winery, Zash Country Boutique Hotel & Spa is a romantic retreat that boasts Michelin-star fine dining and an incredibly scenic location as just a few of the many reasons to bookmark. With a smouldering Mount Etna on one side and the glittering blue of the Ionian Sea on the other, there’s no shortage of breath-taking views here.
Naturalists will revel in the beauty of the surroundings, while gourmands will take delight in the culinary offerings, but the convenient location also deserves a special mention. It’s difficult to imagine a more tranquil sanctuary to return to after a sticky day of sightseeing, exploring the many buzzy east coast hotspots that Sicily has to offer.
The Vibe
Tucked deep within a plush 13 hectares of citrus trees, accessed by a narrow and winding private driveway, there’s an immediate sense of calm upon arriving at Zash; save for the odd graffitied train that rumbles past nearby. The impeccably restored farmhouse of the Maugeri family, famed for their Etnean winemaking, is an ode to nature with a distinctive architectural flair; bound to impress those with an eye for design. At Zash, the surroundings are a constant source of inspiration, with nature calling the shots at every turn. The property even takes its onomatopoeic name from the sound that the wind makes as it gently rustles through the leaves of the enveloping citrus trees.
The low-lit subterranean spa and sleek pool villas both pay homage to Etna, using cool – almost brutalist – dark stone slabs crafted from her volcanic lava. The hotel is a no-brainer choice for couples, thanks to its romantic hideaway feel and gourmet food, but families shouldn’t be deterred. While the focus and amenities are undoubtedly geared towards adults, little ones are also made to feel right at home – even in the intimate Michelin-starred restaurant.
The Rooms
There’s no such thing as a bad room at Zash; each of the 16 strikingly different in their own right. First-floor rooms in the main villa are bright and airy, with white-washed walls and huge arched windows; framing the bucolic scenes beyond. There’s a circular bathtub in the bedroom of one of the unique suites, which conveniently doubles up as a plunge pool for cooling dips. The perfect remedy to slow, sun-soaked mornings spent lounging on the glass-encased balcony overlooking the main pool and its four-poster cabanas below. Floor-to-ceiling glass walls in the cube-like pool villas, some of which come with their own saunas (honeymooners: take note), allow for uninterrupted views of the citrus-filled gardens and the vast stretch of blue beyond.
If clean lines, a minimalist aesthetic and privacy are your thing, then these suites are the ones to book. Low beds, lava-stone walls, contemporary bathrooms and honey-hued timber accents (impeccably designed by Italian architect, Irachi Architetti) make for a seriously Instagrammable combo. Especially when coupled with their bubbling private pools and seemingly floating daybeds.
The Food + Drink
Awarded his first Michelin star in 2019, chef Giuseppe Raciti is at the helm of Palmento restaurant – named after the centuries-old former winemaking cellar in which the top-notch restaurant now resides. Vaulted ceilings, and exposed pumice and limestone walls, lend a moody, yet cosy, ambience – especially at night, where flickering candlelight casts its shadows across the restaurant’s stony interior.
In the summer months, guests dine on the outdoor terrace, where breakfast, lunch and dinner are served overlooking the gardens and citrus groves; the peeling pink façade of the main building acting as a sun-dappled backdrop. The service is formal, but not stuffy, and the food is mouth-wateringly good. The kitchen champions a zero-mile approach to its ingredients – understandable, given that Etna’s rich soil yields produce that is bursting with flavour – and Raciti’s menu is full of references to the island. Standout dishes include the amberjack carpaccio – ornately presented as a beetroot-red-stained rose, paired with avocado, mango and a lip-smackingly good jalapeno sauce. The chef’s signature dish, a crunchy deep-fried (but still perfectly runny) poached egg, is served on a foam of provola cheese and sweet-sticky mulberries, while the homemade breads and ‘street food’ amuse-bouche – including bite-sized arancini, pumpkin-stuffed cannoli, and savoury tarts topped with salted ricotta – are enough alone to write home about. On Tuesday nights, when chef Raciti takes a well-deserved break, the restaurant swaps fine dining for gourmet pizzas; expect innovative toppings including aubergine foam, pine-nut-heavy pesto and smoked provolone.Poolside fare is casual and consists of either grilled sandwiches or a margarita pizza, which is a must, thanks to its epic cheese-to-dough ratio. Though the menu served at the sun-loungers is sparse, the cocktail menu (much like the hotel’s wine-list), is extensive. Try the signature ‘Zash Relax’, made with a heavy measure of Etna gin and sparkling wine, that does exactly what it says on the tin.
The Little Extras
Wine-tasting under the age-old heavy oak winepress is one for oenophiles. Learn about the history of the ancient palmento, while tasting local wines based on a curated selection from the very best Etna producers – including the Maugeri family’s very own vintages. The Contrada Volpare is seriously quaffable; a fresh and mineral white with a citrusy finish.
The To-Do List
Image credits: Zash Sicily
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