With its near-mythic nightlife and one of the most extensive and progressive art scenes in the world, there are few cities where historic and contemporary culture so uniformly meet.
Following the reunification of East and West Berlin in 1989, the city became a hotbed of culture across the arts. Bolstered by cheap rents and the irreverent spirit of the once prohibited meeting of minds, former GDR warehouses in the East became artists’ studios and temples of Berlin’s legendary all-nighters.
As cities go, Berlin is one of those rare breeds – culturally charismatic, with little concern for conventional aesthetics but an impressive stamina for creativity.
A day can take you from the East Side Gallery – the once divisive wall-turned concrete canvas, now home to the world’s largest collection of public art – to some of the greatest architectural feats of the Prussian Empire, to bunkers and streets that were once battlegrounds of World War II and onto Europe’s most infamously enigmatic clubs by night.
Cars and pedestrians cross the border and are met by West Berliners at the makeshift Potsdamer Platz border crossing. November 12, 1989. (Credits: © Berlin Wall Foundation, Photo: Lothar Kruse)
Now, 35 years on from the fall of the Berlin Wall, the cultural pulse of the city remains a palpable force across the globe. Today, Berlin is home to 170 museums and galleries, putting it on par with New York, and second in number only to London.
Taking cues from fashion insiders, this is the best the city has to offer in 2024.
What To See
Falling in Love at Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin. Photo by Nady El-Tounsy
The Friedrichstadt Palast theatre is a must-visit. Its current show, Falling in Love – curated by Jean Paul Gaultier in collaboration with Swarovski – is a kaleidoscopic display of crystals and colour performed on the world’s largest stage. Gaultier’s vision was “to show many kinds of beauty and that they can be found where you might not expect them,” and marrying ballet, acrobatics and sculptural water displays (with over 100 million Swarovski crystals adorning the sets alongside 550 costumes), the show is a feast for the eyes.
Producer Dr. Berndt Schimdt’s commitment to “democracy, freedom and diversity” shines through in the show’s 500-strong ensemble hailing from 28 nations, while writer and director Oliver Hoppmann draws inspiration from William Blake’s poem The Garden of Love. The result is a timeless love story thrown into the modern day through technical theatre mastery.
Caterina Renaux Hering, Artefact Berlin.
For the avid gallery-goer, Berlin boasts some of the world’s most exciting new art. Beyond the oft-frequented East Side Gallery – the mile-long section of the Wall that preserves hundreds of artworks made when the Wall was brought down – some of our favourite contemporary, independent galleries include Artefact Gallery, Circle Culture Gallery and Galerie Buchholz.
The Feuerle Collection
Beatrice Graf, Vogue Germany’s senior shopping editor and founder of Casa De Coca, tells us about some of her favourite recent collections and exhibitions to see:
The Feuerle Collection is Graf’s top pick. Housed in a former WWII bunker, the private collection of contemporary and fine art is striking to experience in this spotlit, brutalist setting. Pieces range from the Han Dynasty to early Khmer works, and contemporary art to sculpture from renowned British-Indian artist, Anish Kapoor. The gallery also hosts immersive gong baths, tea and incense ceremonies.
The Neue Nationalgalerie is another of Graf’s recommendations. An unsurprisingly fashionable pick, the gallery hosted the Saint Laurent 2024 Men’s show. The building itself is an architectural icon, the last major project completed by internationally renowned architect, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. Its glass-steel exterior is typical of the German-born architect’s graceful yet austere aesthetic. Current exhibitions include The Very First Edition – Artists’ Books from the Marzona Collection (until January 2025); Extreme Tension (until September 2025); and Gerhard Richter: 100 Works for Berlin (until September 2026).
To party at one of Berlin’s best galleries, look to Fotografiska. Keep an eye on their Instagram, Fotografiska Berlin, for exhibition opening parties, live music, DJ sets and intimate dinners.
Eat + Drink
Julius Cafe, Berlin
The puristic approach of Berlin’s architecture is well reflected in Julius. The café-restaurant serves Japanese drip coffee and freshly baked pastries in the day. At night, the carte blanche menu of eight to 10 courses relies on a small handful of local producers. The space also has its own gallery to showcase the work of collaborators in the region.
For serious foodies, Julius’ sister restaurant Ernst is a must. The nine-seat counter restaurant serves Japanese-inspired cuisine from Michelin-starred chef, Dylan Watson-Brawn – keep an eye out for available tickets here.
For a cool spot with atmosphere, Maliha Shoaib of Vogue Business recommends Crackers. The sparkling Bamberger Blanc 2017 Riesling makes for an excellent aperitif with an appropriate German origin.
Borchardt
For something classic, Graf suggests Grill Royal at which, she says, “the art curation creates a certain ambience that is hard to find elsewhere in the city.” Borchardt is another classic eatery and “great for people watching” as is Paris Bar, which has excellent art, wine and food. For a relaxed moment, Graf recommends a seat at the bar in Café Frieda, overlooking the open kitchen.
Where To Stay
Hotel Telegraphenamt
‘Roomy’ Suite at the Hotel Telegraphenamt.
Hotel Telegraphenamt is a mecca for locals and visitors alike, the historic building captures the enduring glamour of old Berlin with the urban spirit of the city today. The interiors at the hotel’s iconic restaurant ROOT are designed by German studio, Driemeta. The clever placement of Munch-like illustrated lamps creates a celestial effect across the glass atrium ceiling, giving this arty setting a warm ambience.
Wilmina
Garden View Room at Wilmina, Berlin.
In the West of Berlin, Wilmina, is an ideal retreat for design-aficionados. The hotel is full of structural intrigue: classical arches and pillared balustrades form the backdrop of its multidisciplinary design space, AMT Salon, and rooms are like blank canvases, light-filled with delicate decorative touches. Lovis, the hotel’s bar and restaurant is also worth a visit – like sitting inside a walled garden, the space is surrounded by lush wildflowers. Led by Chef Sophia Rudolph, the team creates excellent contemporary German cuisine using seasonal and regional produce. The roof terrace and pool are a must-see too, and the team opened a new café, Wilmina Brot, in September 2024.
Where To Shop
William Fan, Berlin.
William Fan’s store on Grosse Hamburger Strasse is a must, housing his exquisite selection of jewellery, bags and ready-to-wear.
Having reported on Berlin’s last two fashion weeks, Shoaib tells us that vintage store Sing Blackbird came recommended to her by multiple sources. Kryza is another great vintage shop that comes hotly recommended by Graf, while for the beauty-betrothed she recommends Ryoko for scents and teas with a Japanese pharmacy feel.
For “an institution of a concept store,” Graf recommends Andreas Murkudis – think Dover Street Market’s cool Berlin cousin, and for art, Cabin, a curated shop of unique editions and titles by independent art book publishers. The space also has a dedicated section for performance, video and sound art.
For the Gen Z take on Berlin, visit concept store and salon Isla – a fresh and exciting insight into the city’s next generation and a great pitstop to get your nails done. Located on Linienstraße in Mitte, this road is full of independent shops, cafes and wine bars. On the same road, Swedish brand Our Legacy is another noteworthy retail pilgrimage.
Lead image credit: East Side Gallery, 2018. Copyright: Stiftung Berliner Mauer
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