Discover leading makeup artist Ruby Hammer’s incredible influence on the beauty industry, plus her guide to on-trend, festive makeup looks to see you through Christmas and beyond.
Ruby Hammer is an internationally renowned makeup artist, known for her stunning editorial work and award-winning beauty line, Ruby Hammer Beauty. Originally an economics graduate, Ruby has helped transform perceptions in the beauty industry, power-heading movements to make it more inclusive and accessible.
Here she shares a little of her inspiring path to beauty success, before revealing her favourite tips and tricks for nailing all your festive makeup looks this year.
Carving her own path in the beauty industry
“Starting in the 80s when I did, there wasn’t really anyone like me [a working South Asian mum]. I didn’t have a game plan – I started off assisting and got better over time; everything was a learning curve. I did a tremendous amount of editorial in the early days and also ended up working behind the scenes (with my ex-husband) to help bring leading brands like L’Occitane, Aveda and Tweezerman to the UK market. That lead me to launch Ruby & Millie [a makeup brand that celebrated creativity and inclusivity long before the latter was an industry buzzword] in 1998, with the now head of the British Beauty Council, Millie Kendall. I just took every opportunity that came my way. But, I still see myself as a jobbing makeup artist even now.”
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On her career highlights
“I was fortunate enough to be a makeup artist during the supermodel era, so I’ve worked with Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, as well as many leading hairdressers, art directors and photographers on editorials for leading titles such as British Elle, and American Vogue. I’m proud to have had two beauty brands bear my name [Ruby & Millie and now Ruby Hammer Beauty] and to have seen massive billboards of my work around the world, including in a Thai airport. I also received an MBE for my services to the British beauty industry in 2007 – that was a huge landmark.”
On true authenticity in beauty
“Beauty is a business and I’ve been open about that fact throughout my 40-year career, but I’m no different to the girl that those in the industry met when I was 23. I’ve never used excuses to break down a door, trampled over someone else, or felt sorry for myself thinking someone’s doing something to me because I’m Asian. I just wanted to be the best irrespective of all that. All my challenges and mistakes have helped me to be better.
“As a brand founder, I’ve never tried to be inclusive just for the sake of it either, and I don’t actually like the term diverse. For me, inclusive is the better term because it doesn’t cause blinkered vision. I’m a makeup artist for all people – all skin types, all ages. It should be about doing it for everybody – not a subsect of the industry; that’s the ultimate goal.”
On supporting the future of beauty
“Without trying to sound big headed, I do think I’ve helped bust down the door for South Asian beauty just in the way I’ve conducted my life. But, I’m trying to do that for everybody. There are lots of hats that I wear – I am a female founder, a female creative, and I’m 62. I want to pass on the baton and open the door for people to come after me, because I think there truly is space for everyone. As you get older and you get more responsibility, you have to pass that on. That’s something I have always done.”
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Ruby Hammer’s Top festive makeup tips
1. For skin prep
“In the winter, you are often going in and out of the cold and central heating. That means you need something to enrich, comfort and soothe your skin before applying makeup. Use something a little richer as your moisturiser but apply it in lots of thin layers, to better prime your skin. You also need to work it in a bit more, so it doesn’t just sit on the surface. If you don’t do that, it is going to ‘eat up’ your makeup which then won’t last as long.”
“If you want your makeup to be long-lasting, primer is key too. You can use one beforehand, but I actually really like using a spray version afterwards instead. The ones from Mac and Urban Decay are some of the best. They preserve your makeup and are easy to use too.”
2. For your base
“Often at this time of year, you’ll be leaving the house in the dark and then arriving to tubular light in the office or vice versa. To avoid patchiness or a poor colour match, you need to make sure you are putting on your foundation and concealer in enough light, especially as you may want to apply a little bit more as your skin can be redder.”
“Blending is key as well. But, the right tool is the best one for you – whether it is a sponge, a brush or your fingers. Just make sure they are clean! After applying a small amount, take the time to actually look in the mirror and check your blending. Then, apply more if you need. I keep my magnetic brushes with me for touch-ups on the go. They can help you add that little bit extra to take your makeup from day to night too.”
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3. For your cheeks
“The cooler, hazier, greyer light can make your skin look dull, so now is a good time to add a natural-looking flush to the cheeks. Our Cheek Colour is perfect for this. Again, you want to really blend in any cheek product and build it up, as otherwise some formulas can ‘harden’ and become patchy when you step outside in the cold. I also always carry a small-size translucent powder with me to stop shine and to keep my makeup perfect whatever the conditions. My favourites are from Charlotte Tilbury and By Terry.
4. For your eyes
“With the wind whipping in and the risk of rain, you need something on the eyes that – if not waterproof – is at least smudge-proof, for when your eyes water. A tubing formula can help with that while adding definition. Equally, I like to use eye drops to awaken my eyes and keep Q tips – the thin ones from Muji – to tidy up eyeliner, whether you choose something thick and dramatic, or thin and feline.”
“The texture of your makeup can often give it that festive feeling as well. I love to add a little pearl or shimmer on the eyes, and I tend to go a little bigger with the look with more eyeshadow, so your eyes don’t just disappear. Remember: it can be a good idea to do your eyes first, before your base, to avoid any glitter or pigment falling and needing lots of correction.”
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5. For lips
“I love a more vibrant lip during the festive period, and that is usually identified as a red lip. Then, get something a little glossy or with a bit of metallic shimmer in it, and put it over the top, on your lower lip and on the outer edge of the top of the Cupid’s bow, to give it that lushness. This will pick up the light in your festive photographs beautifully.”
“You need to look after your lips when you are going in and out of the cold too, especially as it is easy to pick at any flakiness. Whether it is a clear one, or something that has some more colour, look for a nourishing balm formula.”
6. For going from day to night
“If you are going to Christmas drinks or a Christmas party after a day at work, you can build on your daytime makeup, by adding a little more glitter or gloss to your eyes, lips and cheeks. My advice: for a quick makeup upgrade, take your finger and apply a metallic shadow right on the centre of your eyelid and blend a little. This will twinkle every time you blink, and adds a great festive feel.”
“The colour people feel most comfortable in for events is black, and that works really well with a classic smokey eye and a red lip. But Christmas is also a time to bring out colour – all the purples, greens, navies, golds, bronzes and coppers. I like to adapt a look to whatever shade that might be, so you don’t do the same face over and over again, especially as during the festive period you are also probably going to lots of different events.”
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