In our Suite Staycation column, Gina Jackson – hotel expert and author of British Boutique Hotels – tours some of the best hotel suites in the UK. In our last of 2024, Gina visits Gleneagles.
Best for: a legendary Scottish stay
Gleneagles, one of Scotland’s finest countryside getaways is, simply put, the stuff of legend.
Give us the lowdown
The 45-minute journey from Edinburgh is spectacular in itself: pass by endless swathes of golden-green wilderness before arriving at the foothills of the hotel, wrapped by Perthshire’s rolling Ochil Hills. From the outset, the hotel appears rather ominous: a gargantuan, grey fortress with multiple turrets that scrape the sky – but step inside and it’s all crackling fires, velvety fabrics, and cosy nooks to curl up in.
Gleneagles celebrates its centenarian anniversary this year, but feels anything but dated: thanks to Ennismore’s acquisition of the property in 2015 (and the subsequent facelift the entire hotel received). Interiors are swish, sumptuous, and sometimes even playful, with a ladies’ powder room on the ground floor decked out in bright pink pops of colour, and the seductive spa awash in a palette of macaron-like pastels. This glamorous playground boasts a star-studded guest book (everyone from Sean Connery and Steven Spielberg to the entire cast of Succession has stayed here) – and even 100 years later, remains Scotland’s most show-stopping retreat.
What’s in the suite?
I checked into an Estate Suite on the first floor of the manor house, with sweeping views over the gardens and plenty of space to sprawl out between the seating area, dining table, and marshmallow-soft, emperor-sized bed. Handsome bedrooms are each individually configured and have been outfitted by industry titans Goddard Littlefair and David Collins Studio alongside Ennismore’s in-house design team, but plush fabrics, gleaming oak surfaces, and strokes of tartan are guaranteed in each of them.
Rooms feel luxurious yet lived-in, with welcome treats (Scottish fudge and shortbread, naturally) waiting for you upon arrival. The hotel’s 232 rooms spill into the adjoining Braid House, but for the most spoiling sleepovers, you’ll want to request a bedroom in the historic manor, where you’ll have to navigate your way back to bed down a warren of corridors carpeted in thick velvet.
How’s the crowd?
This is a hotel of legendary (and global) status, and you’ll find guests of all ages flocking here from destinations near and far. Multi-generational families, couples old and young, and loved-up honeymooners gather across the hotel’s various restaurants, with Edinburgh locals driving up just for dinner or afternoon tea.
Where can we eat and drink?
It’s impossible to go hungry here, with 10 different restaurants for wining and dining across the estate. Breakfasts are a well-observed ritual and served in The Strathearn, a ballroom lavishly appointed in rich velvets that spills into a light-filled orangery. Buffet spreads are a smorgasbord of Scotland’s finest produce: think smoked salmon and freshly baked pastries. The obliging chefs will whip up omelettes and pancakes on demand if you’re not full up from grazing the endless charcuterie boards and blending your own smoothies at the fruit station. Come evening, this is also where suited-up staff carve generous cuts of beef Wellington, and flambée crêpes suzette tableside.
Take it up a notch and reserve a table at two Michelin-starred Restaurant Andrew Fairlie (one of only two restaurants in Scotland to hold such a distinction), before following this up with a tipple at the glamorous The American Bar, the hotel’s seductive speakeasy. For more laidback suppers, there’s Italian restaurant, The Birnam, The Century Bar for all-day drinking and dining (think fish and chips after long romps across the estate), and Glendevon for afternoon tea. You’ll also find a laidback all-day café for snacks and cakes, and the hotel’s relaxed chop house tucked away inside the golf club: perfect for warming curries and tandoor dishes.
What’s on the to-do list?
Countless country pursuits span out in every direction. There’s tennis, croquet, and bicycles for exploring the rambling wildland – or go further afield with off-road driving across the Highlands, followed by pimped-up picnics with the hills as your backdrop. Animal lovers should pootle through the woodland to visit the hotel’s resident hawks, dogs, and ferrets – all of which you’re encouraged to get acquainted with. Of course, there’s the award-winning, championship-level golf course – three in fact – where you can tee off, with amateurs able to try their hand at the pitch and putt course instead.
Make sure to carve out sufficient time at the wellness centre too, where you can work up a sweat at the state-of-the-art gym, yoga and pilates studio (there are multiple classes you can join every day, from aerobics to spin), and in the shimmering, 20-metre indoor pool. Unwind by sinking into deep tissue treatments and Dr. Barbara Sturm facials at the hushed spa – there’s also the hotel’s salon Bob & Cloche, where you can book in for pampering nail treatments and blowdries.
Are there any stand-out touches worth mentioning?
The hotel’s Retail Arcade is a glistening row of smart shopfronts that could easily rival Mayfair’s Burlington Arcade. Browse through the various boutiques, all of which have been expertly curated to offer everything from cashmere sweaters and woollen beanies hand-knitted in Scotland to tongue-in-cheek ceramics by Laetitia Rouget. There’s plenty of Gleneagles-branded souvenirs to take home with you too, including homemade fudge and shortbread.
What should we know before we go?
Book your activities before arriving. Although the hotel’s dedicated team of ‘Playground Planners’ will help to craft your itinerary once you’ve checked in, you’ll want to secure spots for certain activities well in advance to avoid disappointment.
What should we pack?
Cashmere knits and Barbour jackets are ideal for daytime pursuits. Come evening, your finest gladrags are required if you’re heading for dinner at The Strathearn or Restaurant Andrew Fairlie: think chic gowns and your favourite jewels. Remember to pack swimsuits and activewear if you’re planning on making the most of all that the estate has to offer.
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Any Questions or Tips to add?