For some, a ‘girls’ getaway’ drums up visions of cosy cottage catch-ups in the Cotswolds, others, clicking heels and clinking glasses in chi-chi Barcelonian bars.
Perennially popular though are those fantastical ‘spa getaways’; dreams of pampering pedicures and on-demand Prosecco oh-so tempting. If you’ve actually tried to organise one however, chances are that the results have been a tad lacklustre; tarnished by limited treatment time slots, sub-par refreshments and middle-of-nowhere locations.
Well, worry no more. Ladies looking for a more sophisticated way to spend quality time with their favourite friends need look no further than the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, Lisbon. Sitting pretty in the heart of Portugal’s classy capital, this palatial pad dates back to the 1950s, and everything about it oozes style and class. Adjacent to the lush expanse of Edward VII Park and steps from Marquis of Pombal Square, this stately hotel seduces guests with Michelin-star gastronomy, decadent art deco suites and most importantly, a seriously indulgent wellness scene. Here’s everything you need to know.
The Vibe
The Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, Lisbon wears its 1959 origins proudly. Grand chandeliers and immense floral arrangements greet guests as they enter a polished marble lobby – a suitable introduction to the decadence about to unfold. The property’s legacy as the first high-end hotel in the capital is a point of pride; the hotel is the brainchild of 1950’s dictator António de Oliveira Salazar. Disappointed by the capital’s lack of luxury accommodations, he was keen to establish something worthy of hosting important visitors. That sense of old-school class – as well as size, scale and meticulous attention to design – remains etched in all aspects of the building today.
While rich gold curtains, thick patterned carpets and embossed pillars furnish walls and corridors, it’s the hanging art which really elevates the atmosphere. Featuring stand-out artworks was particularly important to the hotel’s identity, and the property is now the permanent home of an impressive 40-piece collection. Today, guests can download the Art Collection Ritz App to enjoy a guided tour of some of the Four Seasons’ more prominent pieces, including Almada Negreiros’ Centaur trilogy of Portalegre tapestries in the lobby.
The Rooms
Of the 282 rooms on site, 42 are suites. Renovated in 2021, the rooms reveal echoes of their mid-century, art deco origins: furnishings are clad with clean, geometric lines and are somewhat minimalist in style. We stayed in the Premier Park View Room, the larger of the two room options, which, at 49 square-metres, felt incredibly spacious and is great for sharing with a friend. The room itself was artfully decorated in teal, stone and wood hues with curvilinear forms everywhere; the carpet’s graphic pattern was inspired by one of Negreiros’ tapestries; and the chairs are recreations of those previously housed in the hotel’s games room. Playful design details abound, from abstract paint-splashed cushions and coffee table interior design books to 1950s Marshall-style radios and organically styled fruit bowls. The bathroom was a boon; boasting a generously-sized bath, a separate shower and a twin sink (again, ideal as a dual-person pre-going out make up station), all carved in fine marble.
To achieve that perfect girls’ getaway however, you’ll want to book a specialty suite. Four distinct mini-apartments provide ideal housing for this kind of escape, featuring opulent extras such as fireplaces, decorous dining tables and beautifully lacquered antique furnishings.
The Food + Drink
The feather in the hotel’s gastronomic cap is the Michelin-starred CURA (the name comes from ‘curadoria’ meaning ‘to curate’ in Portuguese). Overseen by chef Pedro Pena Bastos, the menu focuses around Portugal’s rich regional palette. Bastos is dedicated to bringing “more joy and soul” to traditional fine dining, evidenced in his signature dishes which include squid with hazelnut and bergamot, figs with beetroot, lime and reindeer moss and amberjack with lettuce heart and cured pork. Decor is dramatic yet pristine: wine bottles slung in leather pouches tower up the back wall and abstract art dangles from the ceiling. Acoustics are well managed; the furnishings designed to keep the chatter, clinking cutlery and open kitchen’s endeavours to an unobtrusive buzz.
Elsewhere, the Pool Bar offers al fresco dining alongside palm trees and overhanging jacarandas until 7pm. Its fish-focused menu serves up salmon poke bowls, tuna club sandwiches and octopus rolls as well as burgers and roasted charolais beef tenderloin. The hotel’s location means the noise of the city is prevalent here, so it’s not the property’s most relaxing spot. That said, the pool itself provides fun, pre-dinner entertainment (and even plays music underwater). Three other eating spaces offer everything from a Japanese sushi bar (O Japonês) to afternoon tea in the hotel’s glorious lounge.
The Spa
This is where the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, Lisbon comes into its own – and it’s especially great for a truly pampering girls’ spa day. Extensive by any standards, the ground floor spa is designed for forgetting the outside world. Sunlight filters in from the floor-to-ceiling windows, dappling this cream and stone-hued area in pulse-reducing strobes. An 18-metre pool is flanked by mattress-like loungers and stylish side tables and lamps. Together they generate a refined, homely feel – one which makes you want to grab a book and settle in for the day. The treatment rooms are where the magic happens. Low golden light fills the four spaces, where expert therapists conduct a range of intoxicating rituals. The Mind & Body Total Digital Detox is a great option for those looking to wash away the stress of modern-day life, while reflexology, lymphatic drainage and a range of facials and other feel-good experiences await.
Feeling good doesn’t stop at the spa. Here, the hotel gym is no windowless shoebox in the basement (we’re looking at you London), but a ‘Fitness Centre’ deserved of its title. Occupying prime position on the roof of the hotel, a complex of glass-walled training studios offer a variety of exercise arenas. The headliner is at the end of the corridor, a spacious room filled with mats, weights, aerobic equipment and panoramic views over Old Lisbon and the Tagus River. A Pilates room holds reformer machines (classes can be booked with an instructor) while an additional weights room and sophisticated seating area refuels sweaty guests with citrus-infused water and finger food. Outside, a 400-metre running track gives guests a revitalising way to see the sunrise, while surf and yoga classes can also be arranged.
The Little Extras
As you’d expect from a five-star property sporting this kind of legacy, the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, Lisbon doesn’t scrimp on details. Small considerations stand out, such as covering sections of the brutalist building’s rooftops with astroturf to soften views. Room service is thorough and thoughtful; the attendants left a glasses-cleaning cloth by my sunnies after one visit. I also appreciated how the spa therapists actually read my forms before seeing me, rather than repeating questions in person I’d already answered on the page (an all too frequent occurrence).
Extras which aren’t so little but destined to elevate any girls’ getaway are the hotel’s external activities. New on the agenda is their luxury yacht tour. For around £1600, guests can charter a private boat and enjoy a scenic three hour sail along the Tagus River. Views include the 25th of April Bridge; the Christ the King statue; Belém Tower and the abandoned warehouses of Almada, home to the famous Restaurante Ponto Final. You’ll not be hungry though, as the Four Seasons’ chefs pack a range of lunch options for enjoying mid-sail, including shrimp salad, salmon wraps, cheese and tomato skewers and fresh fruit.
The To-Do List
Exploring is easy: guests are a short walk from downtown, with its fantastic shopping opportunities, plethora of sardine shops and even the best peri peri chicken in Portugal. The recently opened iconic Funicular da Graça is within easy reach, as are Castelo de São Jorge and the botanical gardens. Take a look at what’s on at the Cinema San Jorge, which hosts a number of alternative film festivals (a Motorcycle Film Fest was on when we visited). Walking back to the hotel in the evening is fantastically atmospheric. Avenue de Liberdade comes alive with live music performances and locals dancing in the street.
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The Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, Lisbon has plenty of culinary offerings, but for a girls’ dinner outside of the hotel, opt for JNCQUOI, a trendy eatery whose interior blends classical frescos with dinosaur skeletons. The menu is fantastically Portuguese, serving up Algarve prawn carpaccio, Iberian pork plumas and grilled tuna steak, alongside various soups and salads.
If dipping your toe into a cultural tradition appeals, allow the Four Seasons staff to arrange a tile painting session. Nothing bonds friends like badly painted pottery, so get stuck in at the Viúva Lamego tile-making factory for an afternoon of creative expression. Learn how the locals have been making ceramics for centuries, and test your own creativity while you’re at it.
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