From the neon-lit alleyways of Shinjuku to ancient temples, towering skyscrapers and meticulously curated gardens – Tokyo embraces modernity while paying homage to its history.
Tokyo is not always an easy city to visit: language barriers, a 14 million-strong population and, well, the sheer scale of it all can be overwhelming.
But, if you know where to go, what to do and – importantly – how to find some of the best places to eat at, diving into this seemingly endless modern metropolis is worth it.
Despite all the skyscrapers and neon lights, the Japanese capital is as proud of its long and rich history as it is of its future-facing façade. This is how to explore the best of both.
STAY
Janu Tokyo
The Aman Group’s sibling brand, Janu, opened its first property in Tokyo in March 2024. Set in the heart of the Azabudai Hills, and with interiors by Jean-Michel Gathy, Janu Tokyo has 122 guest rooms and suites which fuse Japanese minimalism with modern European accents. At the hotel, the spa isn’t just a feature; it’s an experience mirroring the hotels commitment to holistic wellness. The wellness centre and spa are home to Tokyo’s largest gym plus five studios including spinning, a boxing ring, yoga sessions and a 25-metre indoor pool. Eight restaurants and bars include Italian, Cantonese and omakase dining.
Bellustar Tokyo, A Pan Pacific Hotel
Upon entering Bellustar Tokyo, the sleek, contemporary design immediately sets the tone for a stay that’s both stylish and inviting. This Tokyo skyscraper, soaring above the buzz of Shinjuku and moments away from Kabukicho – the city’s famous entertainment district – features 97-rooms, all complete with floor-to-ceiling windows with see-them-to-believe-them views over the city. The hotel has three restaurants and a bar – book Teppan Ten-yu, which serves a teppanyaki menu including Ishigaki beef which comes from Ishigaki Island; with only six cows produced a month, this is an exclusive dining experience.
EAT + DRINK
Hei Fung Terrace, The Peninsula
This Michelin-recognised restaurant isn’t just about the food (though that’s phenomenal); it’s an immersive journey into Cantonese cuisine with a touch of old-world Shanghai charm. With intricate latticework and rich wood panels reminiscent of a Suzhou garden, the semi-circular terrace seating offers a vibrant atmosphere, perfect for people-watching. With a mixture of set menus and à la carte options, each is an ode to Cantonese culinary finesse; dishes include Cantonese barbecued appetizers, wok-fried beef sirloin and an egg custard soup featuring Jinhua ham. For a truly special occasion, request a private room with views of Hibiya Park and the Imperial Palace Gardens.
Takamaru Sengyoten 2
Attracting a local clientele, Takamaru Sengyoten 2 is one of those if-you-know-you-know type of restaurants; little hype but excellent food. With a daily changing menu led by what’s freshly caught each morning, the restaurant’s authentic atmosphere and all-Japanese menu serves a range of sashimi as well as flavoured grilled fish. Be sure to try the crab and cheese croquets.
Sushiro Ueno
For delicious sushi on a whim and without breaking the bank, Sushiro Ueno is a popular kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi) restaurant. This vibrant, fast-paced sushi experience is perfect for a casual lunch or a fun dinner with friends. Each plate holds a different type of fresh, beautifully presented sushi and nigiri, alongside tempting side dishes such as mozzarella sticks and chips. Take your pick as they pass you buy on the conveyer, or use the touchscreen tablets to order specific items directly from the kitchen to your seat.
What To Do
A Ninja Food Tour
Ninja your way through Shinjuku on a culinary adventure, escaping all the usual tourist traps and exploring local eateries. Ninja Food Tours takes you through hidden izakaya’s (Japanese gastropubs) and local food and drink spots, uncovering the authentic flavours of Tokyo. You’ll sample a variety of dishes and drinks including matcha beer and yuzu soda (which is delicious) at several carefully chosen restaurants and bars, known and loved by locals.
Explore Golden Gai
Golden Gai, within the neon embrace of Shinjuku, is a labyrinth of narrow alleys and tightly packed bars, each with its own unique character. Originally the bars here, including some of our favourites –Miso, Hospital and The Devil (where all drinks are 666 Yen) – functioned as clubhouses for various creative industries, but today, it is a collection of over 200 tiny bars – each with often no more than five or six seats. Time seems to stand still as each spot tells its own story and history through its décor, music, and the personalities of the proprietors.
Go Shopping
Shopping in Tokyo is an experience and there’s really no end of stores – big and small – to max out the credit card in. Start in Ginza, Tokyo’s luxury shopping mecca, where towering department stores including a flagship 12-storey Uniqlo and boutique shops offer an array of high-end brands and exclusive Japanese design. For a more edgy vibe, head to Harajuku. Takeshita Street buzzes with trendy boutiques, vintage clothing stores, and quirky souvenir shops. Finally, head for Kappabashi, Tokyo’s kitchenware district, which spans several blocks in eastern Tokyo and is a bonanza of traditional Japanese ceramics, wooden cutting boards and last-a-lifetime knives. You may find yourself redecorating your kitchen using the ceramics you pick up as inspiration.
Need To Know
Consider buying a PASMO or Suica card (best purchased at the airport on arrival) for convenient tap-and-go access to trains and buses which make getting around the city easy. Whilst English signage is abundant, ensure you have Google Maps and Google Translate to help navigate the (sometimes overwhelming) public transport system.
Lead image credit: Janu Tokyo
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