The Maldives – a place for honeymooners to relax over candlelit dinners for two, sunset yacht cruises and couples massages. But, what if you don’t have that significant other to travel with?
Can the Maldives cater for the solo traveller too? Laurel Waldron checked into Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu to find out.
I won’t deny I felt a mild apprehension before I arrived, and wondered whether my ‘solo trip to the Maldives’ idea was a mistake. Was I being terribly naive to think the Maldives suitable for a trip alone? Is it really possible to enjoy the Maldives on your own? Without feeling like you’re on someone else’s honeymoon?
As I can attest, it is.
You might assume that a solo Maldivian endeavour would result in untold levels of boredom, but a recent visit left me convinced that it is, in fact, the dream destination for an escape on your own.
The secret lies in choosing the right resort; while there are plenty catering to cocooning couples, with ultra-luxe levels of service and maximum points for romance, you’re better to embrace a solo trip on an island packed with personality and with the right blend of peaceful solitude and activity. Another secret? Opt for a flight cabin one level up from your usual to start the trip off right; I flew Premium Economy with British Airways and arriving refreshed helped alleviate my fear of being solo – never underestimate the difference that a footrest can make during a long-haul nap.
Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu is an island resort steeped in nature, located in the southern waters of a designated UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Baa Atoll. Its Solo Adventure package, with a less prohibitive price tag, has been created to encourage guests visiting alone, and to make sure they enjoy their stay and feel comfortable to make the most of the tropical utopia. A short seaplane flight from Malé’s Velana International airport, the first glimpse of the island is caught from above, with its dense, lush forest, pearl white beaches and jetty of overwater villas stretching towards the sunset.
The Vibe
The resort’s philosophy is dedicated to the nature of its surroundings and its vibe is somewhat more relaxed and casual than some neighbours; kick off your shoes on the speedboat collecting you from the seaplane jetty and you’ll likely not replace them until you depart. The jetty leads you past the sunset beach bar and into the forest, the sounds of the waves now accompanied by the rustling of leaves and shrill call of fruit bats that traverse the treetops day and night.
This is a resort that prides itself on its authentic Maldivian experience, with villas inspired by traditional architecture, menus rich in local seafood recipes, and excursions available to visit the community and craftspeople of the local islands. While its sister island, Coco Bodu Hithi, may be slightly sleeker, this feels more real; an organic, charming, rustic retreat.
You can walk around the island in half an hour, its sandy paths looping through the trees which shroud 98 villas to such an extent that you’d have trouble finding them all. At its centre lies the reception, spa, dive centre, dining options and its crown jewel, the Olive Ridley Project Turtle Rehabilitation Centre, and everything is mere footsteps apart.
Sitting so close to the equator, the sun rises and sets at almost exactly the same time daily, meaning come 6pm twilight is already settling in; evenings are therefore relaxed and slow-paced. While the restaurants are open until late, I often found the lure of a sunset drink and an evening spent in the company of a good book more enticing.
The Rooms
There are six different villa types: choose a Beach, Sunset, Deluxe or Deluxe Pool Villa for direct beach access, and Lagoon or Sunset Lagoon Villas for the – perhaps more coveted – overwater stay.
Each lagoon villa is angled for privacy and uninterrupted panoramic views; wooden floors, four poster beds, timber latticework and authentic Maldivian furniture and artwork contribute to a relaxed, authentic feel. With your own private sundeck and sunken freshwater plunge pool, it’s an idyllic set up to relax, breathe, and just be. Each overwater villa has direct access to the water below, where if you’re lucky you might spot hawksbill turtles feeding on the seagrass, the flash of a black-tipped reef shark or a ray gliding across the lagoon.
Beach villas come surrounded by palm trees and hibiscus and offer rustic island living with king-sized beds, sunken tubs in open-air bathrooms, high thatched roofs and hammocks strung between the trees (which call out for an afternoon snooze), plus direct beach access. Some also have private freshwater pools.
The Food + Drink
Coco’s main restaurant Cowrie is an airy space offering a buffet of both local and global tastes; from traditional Maldivian breakfast dishes, to freshly caught reef fish, sushi nights and beach barbecues, it’s a daily changing spread. While its size and open air nature can make it a little noisy, just around the corner, on its own little sliver of beach, is Conch Beach Bar, with an altogether more relaxed atmosphere.
A dreamy spot for a sundowner, its toes-in-the-sand seating, low lighting and crafted cocktail menu mean its a favourite for a quiet evening, and it became my favourite spot for lunch. An à la carte menu showcases the very best of the reef alongside fresh, crisp flavours – think fresh calamari, soft shell crab, Maldivian lobster rolls, and salads of watermelon and green papaya, with freshly shaved coconut and mint from the island’s kitchen garden. Cornus, open on select evenings, is the island’s elegant Thai restaurant, with tables spread out across the sand under a fairy-lit canopy of palm trees and stars. Who needs a plus one to distract you when you have such a dazzling display of nature?
The Little Extras
In the centre of the island, Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu’s spa is home to open air treatment rooms designed around the lush vegetation. With a menu of massages, from detox and Balinese, to deep tissue, hot stone and Thai, as well as face and body treatments, it’s an idyllic addition. Guests staying on the Solo Adventure package are also entitled to 20 per cent off the price of treatments; it would be rude not to.
The most unique element of the resort is that it’s home to a turtle rehabilitation centre run by marine charity The Olive Ridley Project. The first and only veterinarian-led centre in the Maldives, it opened in 2017 and is home to turtles rescued from ghost nets; discarded fishing nets that pose a devastating threat to marine life. With state of the art veterinary equipment, from ultrasounds and endoscopes to x-rays and machines for healing laser treatment, the dedicated team nurses and rehabilitates seriously injured turtles, many of whom have lost or damaged fins and have to learn to swim and feed themselves again. Rehab is a long process; several have already been in situ for years and some may never be able to be released back into the wild.
Touring the facility, it’s incredible to hear of the sometimes painstaking work being done by the Olive Ridley team, not only to help their current residents, but the wider turtle population, working with other local resorts to educate and assist with their efforts as well as to track turtle nesting patterns. As part of the solo package, guests are given the opportunity to volunteer at the centre, discovering what it takes to help nurse these beautiful reptiles back to health.
The To-Do List
While the private sundeck, plunge pool and palm-string hammock may lend themselves well to an itinerary of doing not very much at all, the joy of Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu lies in its activities, offered in case you do want to keep busy.
Pick up a snorkel and fins and dip into the house reef encircling the island to spot a veritable rainbow of tropical fish, or book a snorkelling excursion with one of the island’s marine biologists and you’ll take a dhoni – a traditional Maldivian fishing boat – to the atoll’s outer reefs where you may be lucky enough to swim with green sea turtles and manta rays. At the PADI-certified Coco Dive, both absolute beginners and seasoned divers can get straight out into the ocean in what is undoubtedly one of the world’s most breathtaking dive destinations, or book a sunrise dolphin cruise, twilight fishing trips or a visit to the local islands.
Though the Maldives may not be synonymous with solo travel, it’s also no longer just the domain of newlyweds. A new realm of resorts are challenging the norm and crafting thoughtful packages for the solo traveller. And I, for one, could not be more thankful.
After all, why should paradise be reserved only for couples?
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