You don’t need a ticket to be clued in to what’s happening at LFW. Meet the trailblazing women of London Fashion Week, from CEOs to designers to makeup artists.
London Fashion Week kicks off today, a five-day event promising to deliver creativity, originality and innovation. The schedule will be a smaller affair this season, with many labels choosing to show their new autumn/winter 2025 collections via film and lookbook, Ahluwalia and Johanna Parv among them, while others, including 16Arlington and Patrick McDowell, are choosing to scrap traditional shows in favour of intimate dinners instead. Buzzy names Chopova Lowena and Nensi Dojaka are waiting until September to present their latest collections.
That said, there’s still a lot to look forward to, not least London Fashion Week’s first ever designer shop at 245 Regent Street. Open from Saturday (22 February) to Monday (24 February), the space will sell pieces from 20 of LFW’s rising labels, such as Di Petsa, Connor Ives and 16Arlington, and will host a series of talks open to the public.
At a time where the industry has come under scrutiny for dominance of men in the top design jobs, we want to celebrate the women at the heart of LFW. From designers to CEOs and makeup artists, below we spotlight the women leading the charge to create the most dynamic and creative version of Fashion Week.
The CEO: Caroline Rush
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British Fashion Council CEO Caroline Rush will oversee LFW for the last time this season, as she prepares to handover the baton to Laura Weir. Having been in the role for 16 years, she has grown British fashion helping it to become a serious player in the international economy. Under her tenure, several industry big hitters have returned to LFW, most notably Burberry, considered the schedule’s headline act. “I couldn’t be prouder of what we at the British Fashion Council have achieved and how we have adapted to constant innovation and change,” she said when the news of departure was announced in September last year. “The resilience and creativity of our designers and industry is exceptional as we witnessed throughout London Fashion Week and I have huge respect for this dynamic community. I know first-hand that when the community comes together it can achieve what is sometimes thought to be the impossible.”
The Established Designer: Simone Rocha
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The Irish-based Simone Rocha has become one of the biggest LFW draws, and with good reason. Her subversive take on hyper femininity has strongly influenced the way women dress and her voluminous silhouettes and romantic signatures widely replicated. Few brands have such a strong identity and – while the designer’s aesthetic evolves each season based on her respective inspiration – its central pillars remain the same. Rocha takes the overtly feminine – bows, pearls and tulle – and juxtaposes them against exaggerated silhouettes to create appealing easy-to-wear designs that look good on everyone regardless of body shape. In December last year, Rocha was crowned British Womenswear Designer of the Year at the Fashion Awards.
The Rising Stars: Sinéad O’Dwyer, Tolu Coker and Talia Byre
London Fashion Week’s USP has always been its influx of new design talent. This season is no different; Irish-born Sinéad O’Dwyer has been making waves with her inclusive form-fitting collections made for women of all sizes, while Tolu Coker has been praised for her multi-disciplinary, socially and politically charged exploration of Black identity (both have been nominated as semi-finalists for the prestigious 2025 LVMH Prize). Last but definitely not least, Talia Byre’s tactile, exquisitely crafted designs have become a must-see, each style intended as heirlooms to be passed down onto the next generation.
Nail Technician: Ama Quashie
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Ama Quashie is the woman who – whether you realise it or not – will be influencing your mani-pedi for months to come, not only due to her work during Fashion Month, but on multiple high-end editorials year-round. The trailblazing nail artist gives every mani a story and is known for her minimalist yet striking designs that complement the most fashion-forward of looks. As a Black female entrepreneur, she has also helped redefine the role of nail artistry in high fashion (in fact, you can’t help but glance down at every model’s fingers when she is backstage). Her London-based nail salon even has a ‘free from’ menu that features nailcare-focused manis that are up to 90 per cent natural. Becki Murray
Makeup Artist: Sofia Schwarzkopf-Tilbury
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Sofia Schwarzkopf-Tilbury had some rather big beauty boots to fill when she – as Charlotte Tilbury’s creative executive – took on a lot of the backstage makeup looks from her aunt. The model’s faces, and the makeup trends that stem from the shows, are in very good hands though. Sofia’s modern approach to makeup blends classic glamour with contemporary techniques, meaning that her radiant, trend-setting looks are as wearable for day-to-day as they are impactful on the catwalk. No wonder she’s been behind some of the most popular flawless ‘Hollywood siren’ makeup trends from the shows in recent years. She’s also a friendly, light-up-the-room presence backstage, which should never be overlooked. Becki Murray
The PR: Davina Wedderburn-Thompson
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Head of Brand & Communications for the British Fashion Council, Davina Wedderburn-Thompson has built a purpose-led career focused around driving positive change in fashion. She helped launch the Pandora Leader of Change Award, recognising trailblazers who empower others and propel progress, with recipients including Michael Coel and Issa Rae. Through promoting diversity and equity, supporting designers and businesses, and advocating for investment in the creative arts, her mission is to make the industry more inclusive and sustainable. Outside of her work for the BFC, Wedderburn-Thompson helps to ensure the next generation of creatives find their career footing through Kenya Hunt’s R.O.O.M. Mentoring group and East London community organisation, Safe House Ldn.
The Strategist: Ida Petersson
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Ida Petersson’s fashion pedigree is strong – she worked at Net-a-Porter and Harvey Nichols before being made Browns buying director. She left last year and teamed up with Ramya Giangola to create Good Eggs, a global full-service brand strategy and creative agency. A passionate champion of emerging talent, she offered strategic support to multiple independent labels dealing with the aftermath of the Matches collapse in 2024, and has called for fashion councils and governments to extend free legal and financial advisory services, for pro bono mentorship and advice to be offered “across all business functions”, as she told Vogue earlier this year. Petersson was also integral to the launch of LFW’s pop-up designer shop.
Lead image: Tolu Coker photographed by Rankin, and Simone Rocha photographed by Tori Ferenc.
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