Whether you’re in town for Carnival, to scope out the beach scene or to visit Christ the Redeemer, don’t skip on the smaller neighbourhoods nearby. This is the Citizen Femme guide to Santa Teresa, Rio de Janeiro.
Rainbow-coloured açaí bowls, waves of bikini-selling camelôs trudging across the bone-white sand, frosted-blonde tips, sunset soccer matches played to an endless rhythm of baile funk: Rio de Janeiro in Brazil is undeniably one of the most visually and culturally distinctive cities in the world.
Yet, just beyond the thong-clad models and wild Carnival hedonism (which runs from 28 February to 8 March this year) lies the historic inner-city neighbourhood of Santa Teresa, a place where the city’s magnetism exerts a more subtle allure.
Until the 1800s, Santa Teresa existed as a wild expanse of untamed farmland and dense forests. With the rise of Rio de Janeiro’s coffee boom in the late 19th century, wealthy industrialists sought refuge from the overcrowded city centre, building grand mansions atop the hills. Over time – as these affluent residents moved on – a new wave of creatives arrived, and Santa Teresa blossomed into a bohemian mecca for musicians, artists, and writers. Today, this upscale neighbourhood is home to flourishing artist studios and a thriving culinary scene.
Its cobblestone streets still bear the marks of a bygone era: 19th-century mansions (some in ruins, others sensitively restored) punctuate the tropical terrain and the century-old Bonde de Santa Teresa (Santa Teresa Tram) winds its way through jungle-draped avenues. On the weekends, locals spill onto the streets with trolleys stocked full of spirits and ever-so-fruity caipirinhas, and resident vendors display art, artisanal clothing and handmade jewellery. It’s worth visiting just to see the bold-coloured vintage Fuscas (Volkswagen Beetles) streaming through the alleys – a hallmark of Rio de Janeiro’s mid-20th-century car culture. The main square, Largo dos Guimarães, is encircled by colonial-style buildings and hosts a lively tram stop, with trendy bars and eateries lining the surrounding streets.
STAY
Chez Georges
Brutalism meets modernist design at one of Rio de Janeiro’s most remarkable small hotels, Chez Georges. Designed by Brazilian brutalist architect Wladimir Alves de Souza in the seventies, this seven-suite villa – complete with a glass-clad elevator entrance – exudes striking style. Inside, the design balances rich textured hardwoods with raw grey-concrete ceilings, earthy muted browns, and low-slung furniture – all softened by elegant arches that lend a timeless, sculptural quality to the space. Each of the seven suites is named after a renowned musician with the name George (George Benson, Giorgio Moroder, Jorge Ben, and so on) and in true Carioca style, the villa exhibits a state-of-the-art recording studio alongside a grand piano in the living room. The thoughtful design extends outdoors: toucan-filled trees envelope an elegant swimming pool and a sleek concrete pergola. Don’t miss the lofty rooftop; the 360-degree panoramic viewing point offers wide-open views of Sugarloaf Mountain and Guanabara Bay.
Vila Santa Teresa
This ultra-chic retreat hits the jackpot with its second-to-none location. A firm favourite of well-heeled clientele, Vila Santa Teresa sits within a tropical 8000-square-metre private estate. The plushvilla’s seven bedrooms – each styled in calming neutral tones and wooden accents – span the entire top floor. On the residence’s lower level you’ll find a spacious dining room, living room, library and an outdoor deck. The centrepiece of the villa is undoubtedly its linear, horizon-style pool which seamlessly flows into sweeping, sparkling views over Guanabara Bay, Botafogo Beach and Marina da Glória. By day, unwind to the sights and sounds of nature from one of the garden cabanas surrounded by mango and eucalyptus trees, or hike the estate’s grounds. Lazy days here are interspersed with bespoke excursions – and yes, a once-in-a-lifetime helicopter trip over the ‘marvellous city’ can be arranged. A curated list of the most exclusive Carioca addresses is also available to guests, detailing the very best of Rio de Janeiro’s clothing, art, and jewellery ateliers. The dining experience here is a form of culinary artistry, with standout specialties including a tropical high tea and a seafood barbecue inspired by the vibrant beaches of northern Brazil.
Santa Teresa Hotel RJ – MGallery
Set within a historic coffee plantation dating back to 1850, Santa Teresa Hotel RJ – MGallery is arguably the district’s most revered hotel, situated in the scenic heart. The 44-room hideaway effortlessly blends the past and present, with design inspired by the golden era of Brazil’s coffee and cocoa trade. Expect natural materials incorporating elements like burnt cement, tropical woods, and banana and buriti fibers, all curated by acclaimed Brazilian designers such as Sergio Rodrigues, Rock Lane, and Studio Vitty. Days here unfold amid lush fruit trees, lounging by the outdoor pool or relaxing at Le Spa, which features an exclusive line of Natura spa products. One of the standout features of the hotel is its restaurant, Térèze, where the menu offers a contemporary twist on local cuisine – ideal for a couples dining experience.
EAT + DRINK
Bonde Boca
Your go-to spot for dinner with a view, just a few minutes’ walk from the main square. Housed in a home-turned-restaurant, the entrance leads through a cerulean-blue-arched doorway where you’ll be greeted by attentive staff. Request a table on the leafy terrace and choose from a selection of traditional Brazilian dishes, all while revelling in orange-hued sunset vistas over the rooftops of downtown Rio de Janeiro. Stay for a round of refreshing caipirinhas while soaking in the high-spirited sounds of the streets below.
Bar do Mineiro
©Josh Gulliver
Black and white photos of famous musicians and indigenous artefacts decorate the walls of Bar do Mineiro, one of Santa Teresa’s most well-regarded restaurants. This lively spot draws a crowd at the weekend, so be sure to arrive early. Savour the local speciality, Feijoada (a black bean stew), paired with a selection of pastéis and cachaça, and wash it all down with an ice-cold beer.
Graca Restaurant
Located just a few doors down from Bonde Boca, Graca is a family-run restaurant with only a handful of tables. Open daily for lunch, it’s an authentic eatery offering a pared-back menu: Brazilian empadão (savory pie), and variations of the classic combination of meat, rice, and feijão preto (black beans). In keeping with the neighbourhood’s creative vibe, each table has a pot of crayons for diners to add their touch to the playful drawings and artwork that adorn the walls.
Explorer Bar
Take an afternoon stroll through the undulating streets of Santa Teresa and you’ll stumble upon Explorer Bar. Founded by three friends who fell in love with Rio de Janeiro, this sophisticated bar embodies the essence of Carioca hospitality: a warm atmosphere where mingling is encouraged. A former turquoise-mansion, studio and church, the buzzy tavern is renowned for its signature cocktails which includes the Jambu Treme, a refreshing blend of pineapple Jambuzada, passion fruit, mango, cinnamon syrup and hibiscus tea. Enclosed by leafy foliage, the bar serves international cuisine and features an open-air patio with seating, parasols, and weekly live music performances.
What To Do
Weekend Markets
Santa Teresa brims with energy on the weekends as groups of friends overflow onto the streets from bars and bistros. Pop-up vinyl shops serve kegs of beer and boutiques showcase their latest collections accompanied by ambient live music. Be sure to stop by Vinil do Mustafa, a characterful record store carved into the façade of the granite mountain. The shop specialises in rock, jazz, and soul vinyl records and if your visit coincides with the first Saturday of the month, you can join in on its vibey party hosted by Mustafa Baba-Aissa, a 53-year-old Brazilian DJ.
Nearby in Glória, the Sunday market is a hub of activity – grab a coconut and explore rows of stalls selling everything from fresh vegetables and fish, to chic swimwear brands, handmade accessories, and natural stone jewellery. And who knows, it might just be the perfect spot to pick up your very own ‘Brazil’ T-shirt.
Parque das Ruínas & Museu da Chácara do Céu
By Fulviusbsas – Own work, CC BY 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=145634632
A short walk from the central tram stop, Parque das Ruínas was once the grand mansion of Brazilian socialite Laurinda Santos Lobo. Today, the site preserves the remains of its exterior brick walls, complemented by a newly constructed staircase and rotating exhibits of modern art. After a refreshment in the park’s garden bar, take a two-minute stroll to the former home of art patron and industrialist Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maya. The Castro Maya Museums – Açude Museum and Chacara do Ceu Museum – showcase the rich collection of artwork and rare books Raymundo Ottoni de Castro Maya amassed during his lifetime. Among the pieces on display are works by Jean Lurçat, Pablo Picasso and Antonio Bandeira.
Escadaria Selarón
©Josh Gulliver
As you walk twenty minutes from Largo dos Guimarães, you’ll pass old-school car workshops, traditional cafes and Vinil do Mustafa before reaching Escadaria Selarón. Also known as the Lapa Steps, the world-famous stairs were designed by Chilean artist Jorge Selarón and are embellished with thousands of brightly textured tiles from around the world. As is often the case in Brazil, local musicians provide the soundtrack to your visit; come at dawn or dusk to escape the crowds.
Lead image credit: Vila Santa Teresa
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