Each year, usually beginning in late October and continuing through mid-December, elephants quietly plod through the open-air reception at Mfuwe Lodge in Zambia.
Their destination? A mature wild mango tree, branches heavy with ripened fruit. Summer Rylander flew south in hopes of joining the herd at check-in.
Mfuwe Lodge isn’t just another safari lodge. It serves as headquarters of The Bushcamp Company – a community-oriented, conservation-focused safari company operating exclusively in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park. As its name suggests, The Bushcamp Company puts bushcamps – remote, immersive camps with just a few tents or chalets – front and centre.
The camps are perfect starting points for walking safaris, a concept born in Zambia in the 1960s and still the best way to connect with the bush today. Here, the journey begins with a one-hour flight from Lusaka to Mfuwe, then a 45-minute ground transfer to Mfuwe Lodge, located just inside the park gates.
The Vibe
The lagoonside Mfuwe Lodge is a fitting bushcamp basecamp. With 18 thatched chalets, a swimming pool, a shop, a library, a photographic studio, a spa and a bar that only shuts down when the evening’s last guest calls it a night, Mfuwe Lodge feels like a proper hotel. Most guests (myself included) travelling with The Bushcamp Company begin their adventure here, with a two- or perhaps three-night stay to settle in and get a feel for South Luangwa National Park through twice-daily game drives.
You’ll get a sense of the region’s biodiversity right on property, though. Hippos honk and grunt from two algae-green lagoons as birds like the hamerkop and African sacred ibis alight on their backs. Bushbucks and impala graze a safe distance from the water’s edge, vervet monkeys scamper throughout the property and, even if they’re not trekking through reception, elephants are often somewhere nearby.
The Rooms
Chalets at Mfuwe Lodge line the banks of the lagoons, with trees and other foliage maintaining both privacy for guests and habitat for wildlife. There are 13 standard chalets, three family rooms, and two suites, all of which have a private terrace and are equipped with air conditioning, mosquito nets, basic toiletries (including hair conditioner and body lotion), hair dryers, a kettle with tea and coffee, and big, comfortable beds.
There is not, however, any WiFi signal in the rooms. You’ll need to hang out within the main lodge areas for connectivity – and that may include your mobile signal, too. My eSIM occasionally found a faint connection from within my room, but it was too weak to even check emails, let alone scroll Instagram. But I’m only mentioning this connectivity caveat in the interest of full disclosure, because if ever there’s a time to put the phone down and live in the moment, it’s when there are hippos just outside your terrace door.
The Food + Drink
The Bushcamp Company really shines in the food department, both in terms of quality and abundance. Breakfast is served before the morning game drives depart at 6am, brunch at 11am, afternoon tea happens at 4pm, then dinner kicks off at 7pm. Oh, and there are snacks served with sundowners during the afternoon drive. To avoid guests repeating meals as they move from one lodge or camp to the next, The Bushcamp Company syncs its menu across all nine properties. If it’s pizza lunch Tuesday at Mfuwe Lodge, it’ll be pizza lunch Tuesday at nearby KuKaya Lodge and distant Bilimungwe bushcamp, too. (And pizza lunch is very exciting indeed – dough is provided for you to shape and top as you please.)
The Bushcamp Company’s farm. Image credit: Summer Rylander
To better understand what it takes to supply busy lodges and remote camps with fresh fruits and vegetables, I visited the company’s own farm — which is suitably named The Farm. It’s a 21-hectare wonderland of various mangoes, pumpkins, aubergines, peppers, tomatoes, pineapples and much more. A green-thumbed crew of 17 employees cultivate more than 30 species at The Farm, which lies near the Mfuwe airport and is open to curious Bushcamp Company guests. Having this resource contributes significantly to food freshness – and to reducing the company’s carbon footprint by not having to truck or fly produce in from the capital city of Lusaka.
During my week spent with The Bushcamp Company, lunches were my personal highlight. From chargrilled chicken and aubergine gratin to crunchy salads and still-warm quiche loaded with vegetables, meals were well-balanced and flavourful. A cold beer, glass of wine or a gin and tonic were never far away, either.
The Spa
Like the chalets, the Bush-Spa at Mfuwe Lodge overlooks a hippo-occupied lagoon. Spa products are derived from local ingredients, and service options include massages, Zambian reflexology, facials, herbal soaks and more – the highly skilled therapists are also happy to discuss customised treatments.
One quick tip: Should you wish to make use of the Bush-Spa, you’ll be wise to book your appointment in advance. Between game drives and meals, your downtime at Mfuwe Lodge may be limited and a luxe spa treatment is the last thing you’ll want to rush through.
The Little Extras
Surprises abound in South Luangwa National Park. You never know when you’ll spot a leopard (twice, in my case) or wild dogs (not at all, sadly). You could be caught in a rainstorm mid-game drive (also twice), watch thousands of carmine bee eaters fly to and from their riverbank nests, or wander to reception just as a family of elephants are lumbering down the walkway. I didn’t get to see the mango-munching ellies during my time at Mfuwe Lodge, but I did have several incredible elephant sightings whilst in the bush – including the tiniest, freshest calf I’ve ever seen.
The most noteworthy Bushcamp Company extras, however, are its commitments to doing right by the people of the South Luangwa River Valley. Every stay helps contribute to The Bushcamp Company’s community projects, which include drilling boreholes to ensure that rural villages have access to fresh water, and providing daily meals for children attending local schools. The Bushcamp Company also supports wildlife conservation organisations that help safeguard against poaching, conserve carnivores and their habitats, as well as conduct research to better understand species’ needs.
The To-Do List
Mfuwe Lodge is just the beginning of The Bushcamp Company experience. Do plan time to stay at a bushcamp or two (or three), and absolutely take advantage of the opportunity to go on a walking safari.
Carmine bee eaters. Image credit: Summer Rylander
Walking safaris let you put boots on the ground – literally – to get closer to the bush and notice the little details that are easily overlooked from the back of a safari vehicle. An armed national park ranger will lead the way, followed by your safari guide, then you and any fellow safari-goers, with a tea porter wrapping up the single-file line. You’ll stop along the way as your guide points out interesting things – I got close-ups of a lion hairball, working termites and aardvark tracks. I also had the pleasure of watching a trio of giraffes cross a stream, curious but unconcerned by our presence on foot.
All image credit: The Bushcamp Company, Mfuwe Lodge
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