Designer Oyuna Tserendorj share’s her insider guide to Mongolia, the country she was born and raised in.
In an era of Instagram-led, homogenised travel, Mongolia is a rare jewel. You’re unlikely to find influencers sharing pictures from this remote, wild country. Roughly half of the country’s 3.2 million population live in its chaotic capital Ulaanbaatar, but around a quarter of Mongolian inhabitants are nomadic, living in gers (yurts) and moving with their herds a few times a year. If the tourist crowds of more popular destinations aren’t for you, Mongolia offers a less curated, vast and invigorating frontier to explore.
Although Oyuna’s father is now a government official, many of their family are still nomads based in the east of the country. “The unique nomadic culture hasn’t changed for centuries,” she tells us. “Mongolia is a breathtakingly beautiful land; the endless views and vast open skies, coupled with the history and confident nomads who take care of it, make it such a special place.”
Tserendorj left her home in Ulaanbaatar to study fashion in Budapest, but her heritage is key to her work. Oyuna, her eponymous fashion brand, specialises in environmentally friendly Mongolian cashmere sourced from nomadic communities. She returns to her homeland regularly to visit her family and factory, but also to find inspiration and energy in the wide emptiness of the grassy steppes and sandy plains. Here, she shares her insider’s guide to this beguiling, magical destination.
The best time of year to visit is…
July and August. Between 11-15 July is our biggest and most important national festival called Naadam. There are definitely more tourists during this time, but experiencing the festival’s opening ceremony, watching activities such as horse racing, archery, wrestling, knuckle-bone shooting, and seeing people dressed in national costumes is so interesting and can’t be missed. Naadam festival happens throughout the country, so even the smallest villages celebrate. Check the dates in the region you are travelling to, as timings vary. National Costume Day also takes place in July every year, a day before Naadam, on the main square of Ulaanbaatar. That promises to be a truly unique experience too. August is less touristy, especially towards the end, but temperatures might start dropping by that point.
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At least 10 days, ideally two weeks or more. The country is huge and it takes time to get from one place to another, especially travelling by Jeep. You should choose a region or two. That said, I have friends who came just for one week and had a great time too, travelling, for example, by Jeep to the north, then flying back to Ulaanbaatar.
Central Mongolia in the summer
Essential items to pack…
Definitely light clothing for both hot and cold weather. The weather is sharp continental, which means it can be hot during the day in summer and cold at night. Thankfully, it’s never humid, so it’s quite bearable. You’ll need good rain gear and hiking boots, plus a quality sleeping bag if you’re camping.
Our first pitstop should be…
All international flights arrive at the capital Ulaanbaatar, so it’s a good stop for one or two days to get over jet lag and prepare for the trip to the countryside, which is an absolute must for any visit to Mongolia. Stock up on any food and snacks if you’re camping.
Your favourite hotel to check-in at is…
I’ve never stayed in a hotel in Ulaanbaatar because I have family there, but have recommended Shangri-La to friends.
Gandan monastery in Ulaanbaatar
What key things should we see and do in Ulaanbaatar?
Every time I’m in the city, I visit my favourite museum there, Zanabazar Museum. It showcases a small collection of Mongolian fine arts and beautiful buddhist statues by master Zanabazar, the Mongolian version of Leonardo da Vinci. State Department Store is a good one-stop place to buy any Mongolian postcards, souvenirs, or just a bottle of sun screen. I also love Tuyarah salon for pampering; it offers hair cuts, amazing massages and facials for women and men.
Oyuna hiking along the Bayan-Ulgii mountains
Num Sum Speakeasy Bar, an atmospheric basement drinking spot with delicious craft cocktails and schnitzels made with Mongol pork. You won’t find a full bar like this anywhere else in UB. I also like Bitsy & Co, which opened last year, it’s a tiny one-room space that offers a variety of artisanal cocktails made by the coolest-looking bartenders, serving midnight burritos and turkey sandwiches.
Veranda restaurant has been around for ages, but it’s very atmospheric and the food is consistently good. The location is great too, right next to Choijin Lama Temple Museum, an easy add-on if you’d like a little history before or after a meal.
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Mongolian vodka!
The unmissable culture spot…
Gandan Monastery, a Tibetan-style Buddhist monastery in Ulaanbaatar. Listen to monks chanting, and watch as they walk around spinning buddhist prayer wheels. Take a quiet moment and reflect on the beauty of life.
Gobi Desert in Southern Mongolia, photograph by Patrick Schneider
The western snow-capped mountains, the beautiful clear-water Lake Huvagul in the north, Gobi Desert in the south – and anything you see on the way.
Should we hire a car? Or can we use public transport?
Definitely hire a car and driver, plus a translator and cook – there aren’t a lot of road signs in the country so you need a guide. Once you have a car and a driver and have stocked up with food, you can go any direction and wild camp anywhere you like.
Oyuna in Mongolia
What’s the one thing our readers should know about Mongolia that will help them on their travels?
The traffic is really bad in Ulaanbaatar, so try to walk everywhere. In the countryside, most roads are not paved and, as I said, there are no road signs.
Are there any experiences we should definitely do?
Definitely wild camping: sleeping under the stars is what Mongolia is about. Travel out into the wilderness into the amazing, open land, visiting nomadic families on the way.
For the best views head to…
Drive just half an hour outside Ulaanbaatar to find stunning vistas.
How should we spend the final day of our trip?
I think arriving straight from the countryside and flying straight home is nice; it helps that Mongolian experience to linger for longer. If you decide to spend a night in UB, book a nice massage.
One key phrase we need to know in Mongolian?
“Sain naina uu, which translates as, ‘how are you?”
If we buy one keepsake to take home what should it be?
A Mongolian throat singing CD.
In one word Mongolia is…
Horizon-widening, both literally and metaphorically.
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LEAD IMAGE: Courtesy of Oyuna
Any Questions or Tips to add?