Over 100 years, La Mamounia has firmly established itself as the place to be in Marrakech.
Its prime location just inside the city’s medina walls and within strolling distance to Koutoubia Mosque has made it a tourist attraction in its own right, famed for its roster of previous guests from Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin to the Kardashians.
Though the medina is on the doorstep, it would be easy to check in and never venture beyond this grand dame of a hotel. There are four high-end restaurants, a tea salon, a 2,500 sqm spa including a beauty and hair salon and a hammam, a kids’ club, two tennis courts, a private cinema, a boules pitch and a mini-mall filled with designer stores and the hotel’s own oh-so-chic gift shop.
It’s La Mamounia’s expansive gardens that are the real star attraction though, created by Prince Al-Mamoun in the 18th century when he inherited a 13-hectare estate from his father. Filled with perfectly tended flower beds and towering palm, olive and citrus trees, they’re now a dreamy spot to soak up the year-round Moroccan sun.
The Vibe
Beyond the huge souk doors and caped doormen, La Mamounia feels like another world: glamorous, discreet and impossibly elegant. Many areas have been recently refurbished by architect/designer duo Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku to celebrate the hotel’s centenary in 2023 and now feature glossy black marble, intricate hand-laid tiles and caramel Berber rugs. A spectacular low-hanging chandelier is the focal point of the lobby, commissioned to celebrate the hotel’s 100th birthday. Even the air smells expensive, scented with La Mamounia’s own signature date fragrance created by renowned French perfumery Maison Fragonard.
The Rooms
Photo by Alan Keohane www.still-images.net for La Mamounia
Surprisingly, the 209 rooms are just as ornate as the lobby and every one feels like you’re holed up in your very own traditional riad. All have ornate wooden doors with oversized knockers, sculpted plaster work, tactile zellige tiles in rich jewel tones and handcrafted Moroccan lanterns. Instead of bland neutrals, there are arched headboards, velvet ottomans and framed sepia photos of Marrakech on the walls.
Suites are worth splashing out on if you really want to feel like you’re staying in a palace. Extra details include exposed wooden beam ceilings, decorative archways between bedroom and living area, intricate latticework and double balconies overlooking the gardens or Koutoubia Mosque. Spa-like bathrooms have wall-to-wall marble like a private hammam, some with freestanding baths and carved cedar shutters. There are an additional three riads hidden in the grounds, each with a private heated swimming pool and terrace, three bedrooms and 24-hour butler service.
The Food + Drink
La Mamounia, Marrakech, Morocco. Photo by Alan Keohane www.still-images.net for La Mamounia.
There’s no better place to people watch than over breakfast at the Pool Pavilion, overlooking the huge 650 sqm palm-shaded pool. A lavish – and beautifully laid-out – buffet includes everything from homemade pastries to baghrir, Moroccan specialities known as thousand-hole pancakes and best served drenched in honey. Sunday brunch here is the stuff of local legend and includes unlimited lobster and extravagant desserts by Pierre Hermé, previously voted the world’s best pastry chef.
Moroccan Lounge & Restaurant, La Mamounia, Marrakech, Morocco. Photo by Alan Keohane www.still-images.net for La Mamounia.
Both The Italian By Jean-Georges and The Asian By John Georges are open for lunch and dinner. The Italian trattoria opens onto the gardens and serves refined classics including antipasti, wood-fired seafood pizza, clam fettucine and a tiramisu to die for. John Georges’ second restaurant at the hotel has a pan-Asian fine dining menu featuring freshly-made sushi, dim sum, fragrant curries and cocktails to match, made with ingredients such as Thai chilli syrup and matcha tea.
If you’d rather stick with local specialities, the hotel’s Moroccan restaurant, Le Marocain, is considered one of the best in the city, and is certainly the most beautiful. Tucked away in an exquisitely decorated riad in the garden, it serves tasting menus, tagines and fish dishes to traditional live music.
The Spa
La Mamounia’s spa takes some beating too. It has yoga and Pilates classes, a nail salon, two hammams, a barber and hair salon and Morocco’s most photogenic pool, framed by tiled columns. Treatments are by prestigious brands including Valmont, Augustinus Bader and marocMaroc and there are over 80 to choose from, including a four-handed massage and even kids’ manicures. Not that you’ll be able to drag them away from the retro games room decorated like an American diner with pinball machines, a jukebox and pool tables.
The Little Extras
Nothing is too much trouble at La Mamounia. Bags disappear the minute you arrive to be whisked to your room, check in takes place on sofas over dates and orange-blossom infused almond milk, and rooms come with useful additions including Havaianas flip-flops and geometric-printed beach bags.
The To-Do List
It couldn’t be easier to stroll to Marrakech’s main square, Djemaa el-Fna, to pick up a freshly-squeezed orange juice or sample chicken pastilla at the nightly market. Narrow alleyways lead in every direction lined with stalls selling rainbow-coloured pashminas, hand-carved wooden ornaments and embroidered slippers. If it feels a little daunting, ask the hotel to book you a walking tour, where a local guide will share stories of the city’s history, lead you to the must-visit sights and even suggest the best stalls for souvenirs.
By YassirZek – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=82743164
The 18th century Dar eh Bacha Palace was built for Pacha Thami El Glaoui, who once ruled the city, and is well worth a wander. Its astonishing tiles, orange tree-filled garden and exhibitions are all excellent, but it’s the smart café inside that attracts dedicated coffee lovers. Bacha Coffee was founded in 1910 and stocks over 200 hand-roasted coffees from 35 countries around the world, stashed in orange tins behind the counter. Be warned, there can be a long wait for a table so go straight there and put your name on the list before looking round the rest of the palace.
All image credit: La Mamounia, Marrakech
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