Nothing says La Dolce Vita like a weekend in Lake Como. Live it up at five-star hotels or spend the day on a beach towel by the lake, licking ice cream straight from the cone: there’s a reason this gorgeous place is a favourite with locals and tourists, alike.
Arguably the most glamorous of Italy’s lakes, Lake Como is known as a playground for the rich and famous, studded with ornate villas and fine dining restaurants. Across its waters, Venetian-style limousines can be seen zipping here and there, as guests take a break to lie back on cream upholstery and sunbathe. In short, it’s a postcard for La Dolce Vita. But, is it really worth the hype? We’re here to tell you that, with a resounding sì, it really is.
But, it’s not all about where George and Amal went last night, this is a region rich with art, culture and history, where simplicity is appreciated, too. Think neighbourhood haunts where locals talk late into the night with an Aperol Spritz in hand and small patches of rocky beach, covered with towels, where elderly men play cards and kids leap into the deep blue beyond. Lake Como is fabulous, yes, but it’s also about family, with generational restaurants, cafes and bars, plus interesting new concepts started by life-long friends. Whether you stay for a night or a week, we encourage you to enjoy both the flashy and mundane that make this place an idyllic haven in Northern Italy.
STAY
Grand Hotel Tremezzo
It makes sense to introduce a place associated with glamour, history and the most opulent echelons of Italian culture, with the Grand Hotel Tremezzo – one of the lake’s first grand hotels. To look at, it’s a marvel; standing tall like a luxury dollhouse against the backdrop of swooping hills and climbing gardens, contrasting against the lush greenery with its signature tangerine awning and parasols. Opened in 1910, it was conceptualised by wife-and-husband team Enea and Maria Gandola, who, after travelling Europe and experiencing the grand hotels of the continent, wanted to put Lake Como on the map with something similar. Oh, how they succeeded! Over the last 124 years, Grand Hotel Tremezzo has become synonymous with Lake Como and is today owned and run by the third generation of the De Santis family, who have continued to hone, shape and enhance the hotel, as well as the surrounding region.
Across the site, guests can enjoy the infinity pool and spa looking out to the lake, while amongst the grounds behind is a private pool and al-fresco restaurant, stretching into Villa Carlotta’s famed gardens. There are three main restaurants, plus a gorgeous terrace bar, and so if you’re not staying the night, book in for lunch or dinner. Personally, we’re huge fans of the fine dining La Terrazza, which is the only restaurant in the world approved to serve the famous dishes of the iconic Gualtiero Marchesi, nicknamed the ‘Maestro’ of contemporary Italian cuisine. With awe-inspiring views, elegant tablescapes and colourful seating, it punches with charisma and style while maintaining a timeless feel. From the old-school wooden bar to the flamboyant furnishings, Grand Hotel Tremezzo is iconic and a symbol of the lake’s culture itself.
Alberto Diffuso Ca ‘Spiga
There’s a beauty to guest houses that allow visitors to live and breathe the local lifestyle, and there’s nowhere better to do this right now than Italy, which arguably has one of the strongest ‘local’ cultures in Europe – from the simplicity of its cuisine to country-wide trademarks, like drinking an espresso stood up. In Lake Como, independent bed and breakfast Alberto Diffuso Ca ‘Spiga is a gorgeous place to live out this fantasy. Located in the tiny village of Laglio, which sits along the lake’s craggy shores, this ancient, four-storey building descends into the undulating rock hidden down a cobbled path. Open the original, arched wooden door and you’re straight into the kitchen-dining space, the heart of what was owner Alessandro’s much-loved grandmother’s home (and her father’s before her!) where he lived, played and learnt about food growing up. A large dining table grounds the space, book-ended by vintage dressers storing the china and wine glasses you’ll use for the homemade breakfast the next morning. Overhead, wicker baskets dangle and the views of the lake wink at you from the outside terrace. Across the four floors are bedrooms, a split-level garden, a lavender store, a second kitchen, and a Jacuzzi, built into the rock. The eight bedrooms, each perfectly chic, are considered but not over done. They look a little like a grandmother’s spare room, with soft, pastel walls paired besides vintage, wooden beds and original flooring, but with few fuss or frills when it comes to decor. And, really, that’s the point – it’s an authentic experience, beautiful because of its normality (which is simultaneously not normal at all – because how many of us can say we were raised in such a magical corner of the world?).
Palace Hotel
Exploring the curves of Lake Como is a joy but you may find that the beginning or end of your trip is most conveniently placed in the centre of Como itself. For this, the Palace Hotel is an ideal base. Expect comfortable luxury from this 19th-century hotel which paints a handsome picture, boasting period features like ornate ballrooms and dining spaces decked out with chandeliers and stucco plasterwork. It’s here that you can enjoy breakfast in the morning, starting the day off like a principessa with an indulgent buffet offering everything from hot dishes and cold plates of cheese and meat, to homemade cakes and even a bottle of bubbly.
There’s plenty of dining options across the site, most notably the Ceccato Garden Bar which looks out to the lake, and has been designed in an Art Nouveau style with curling garden furniture, huge palms and spherical lighting. Watch the sunset over the water while you enjoy a menu of Italian classics. There’s also every service you might need, from laundry and bag storage, to local recommendations. For example, the Como-Brunate funicular is a five minute walk away, as are the main piazzas, churches and shopping streets. If you want to explore a little further, the quieter streets of Como are laden with small cafés and bars; ask reception for ideas and they’ll be only too happy to oblige. While the view depends on your room, even standard rooms often come with a balcony, while larger suites showcase beautiful terraces.
Mandarin Oriental Lake Como
For those who are lucky enough to visit Lake Como on the regular, the historic, grand hotels are no doubt part of their lexicon already. But, for newcomers, the Mandarin Oriental Lake Como hotel is an instantly recognisable name, even if you’ve never dipped a toe into the lake’s waters. Known globally for its all-out opulence, staying here is a dream-come-true – but if you can’t commit to an overnight booking, the complex has lots of options for lunch, aperitivo and dinner. For all-day dining, the CO.MO Bar & Bistrot has a gorgeous spot on the terrace with killer views and serves up crowd pleasers like fresh pastas, salads and small plates.
Those staying also have access to the NAMI Cafe which, while informal, sits alongside the floating pool. When planning your trip around a big name like the Mandarin Oriental, you can also take advantage of all the experiences on offer: try their Venetian-style boat tour service, as well as water sports like jet-skiing, wake-boarding and kayaking. Or, enjoy a soak from the safety of the hotel at the impressive spa which has a thermal area with pool and relaxation lounge, wellness activities and signature treatments, from facials to massages. As for bedrooms, just picture your own little oasis of serenity, with huge windows welcoming the lake’s unique natural light, beds dressed in crisp, white sheets and simple interiors. It’s the ultimate way to unwind.
EAT + DRINK
Villa d’Este
When we say that Villa d’Este, part of The Leading Hotels of the World group, is the place to invest your holiday budget to feel like a movie star for the day, we mean it. This sprawling, Renaissance hotel spans 152 rooms and opens out into a spacious, lake-fronted terrace. This is the jewel of the Villa d’Este site, but clustered around it you’ll find plenty more precious stones, like manicured gardens and 25 acres of grounds studded with centuries-old sculptures, as well as historical villas, boat houses and gate houses. The villa’s life started in 1568 and over time has been home to princesses, prima ballerinas, army generals and politicians, before becoming the grand hotel it is today. Standing in front of its wisteria-covered façade, you really feel that you’re witnessing Italian history.
There are four restaurants at Villa d’Este and we recommend Veranda, where dishes are elevated in taste and composition, with imaginative presentations that make the experience only more special. For example, a starter of foie gras, Armagnac sour cherry and cherry gelée is conceptualised as a perfectly-formed, glistening red cherry – which once sliced into, reveals its rich, gooey centre for a wow effect. For mains, think freshly caught whole dover sole cooked in butter and served tableside, and an Amalfi lemon built from the finest flecks of fruit, filled with cream and finished with pistachio powder.
Materia
Leave the grand hotels behind and try something totally different with a table at Michelin-Starred Materia. A small restaurant, just off the main road in Cernobbio, there are no lake views or scallop-edged parasols here. In fact, there are no views at all with concealed windows and little emphasis on decor, save for white table cloths, form-led seating and architectural lighting, which lays flat across the ceiling and embellishes windows. But, the space doesn’t feel empty or plain, instead you can already sense that this is a hotbed of creation where details are considered and the direction is always forwards. Materia has been run by a group of friends since the beginning; in the kitchen is head chef Davide Caranchini, while Ambra directs front of house and Luca is the restaurant’s all-knowing sommelier. Here, every mouthful tells a story, often relating to the surrounding regions. Opt for the chef’s selection where dishes impress with both flavour and presentation. Take the Cucumber “scapece” for example, which steams the humble cucumber past recognition, dries it out, fires it over the BBQ and serves with cucumber glaze, mint oil and mint leaves. Or the pollen and marigold soup; sheep and seaweed millefeuille; and the perfect-as-it-is fresh tagliatelle in fermented parmesan sauce and lemon.
Villa Làrio
If there’s anywhere that encapsulates low-key opulence, it’s Villa Làrio. With 18 breath-taking suites, this boutique hotel eschews obvious glamour for chic interiors, some of the best views on the lake and a feeling of contented privacy. Glowing, happy guests wander the garden, relax by the pool and dine al fresco. In fact, a well-heeled local told us, upon hearing we were off to sample new executive chef Davide Maci’s work: “It’s absolutely divine, sophisticated simplicity and for that reason, one of the most authentic and yet exclusive experiences on the lake.” Guests can take the glass elevator from the quaint dock, up the rock-side and directly into the restaurant, before choosing whether to dine inside or on the terrace.
Maci – who grew up in Como – has worked in kitchens all over the world and has now returned home – to champion the sublime local produce of Como with elegant dishes that accentuate nature. To start, slices of melon, oozing with ripe juices, are infused with spices and topped with grated parmesan. Your tastebuds will do a somersault, hit with the freshness of the flesh, a powerful kick of pepper and then placated by creaminess. This sense of balance extends to the whole menu with slices of sea bass crudo layered with bright pea and lime, contrasted with sticky shallot chutney, and simple, buttery tagliolini squeezed with lemon and topped with delicately-flavoured, barely-cooked langoustine, as fresh as if it were plucked from the waves just minutes ago. Each mouthful is a gift and we can see why locals reserve this spot for birthday treats.
Da Luciano
Da Luciano is a family butcher-turned-restaurant which came about when the patriarch hung up his apron strings and his sons asked permission to turn the shop into something new. The setting is low key, with tables on the street overlooking the lake; a place where neighbours drink an espresso in the morning or talk late into the evening. But, if hearty food, cooked to perfection is what you’re looking for, this is the spot for you. Thanks to its butcher-shop background, the team have access to prime cuts of meat and grill them, seasoned with just olive oil from local farms and a sprinkling of rosemary and salt. Salads are fresh; big bowls of lamb’s lettuce tossed in a light dressing and served with sweet tomatoes. And, an ice cream is a must – the fior di latte is to die for – whether that be in an affogato or straight from the cone. While you might assume that this quiet village won’t draw a crowd, Da Luciano’s is never, ever empty. In fact, on a Saturday evening you’ll be fighting nonnas for a seat, as nearby residents descent in a pair of heels and a swipe of lippy to enjoy an Aperol Spritz in the warm evening air. Da Luciano’s is somewhat famous thanks to its Instagrammable counter tables that attach themselves to the very railing looking over the water, considered the best seats in the house. But, make no mistake, this is a local spot and by your second visit you’ll be rewarded with smiles and shoulder slaps from the owners who are happy to welcome you again.
What To Do
Get Out On The Water
We probably don’t have to tell you that if you’re visiting one of the most beautiful lakes in Europe, getting out on the water is a non negotiable. Personally, we’re a sucker for the vintage, wooden boat tours run by Lake Como Experiences, which have capacity for up to eight people and can be organised for just a few hours or the whole day. Imagine sipping Italian sparkling as you glide through the lake at dusk on a classic Venetian Limousine: it’s the kind of once-in-a-lifetime experience that you’ll remember forever. If you’re in the mood for something a little sportier, check out the sexy E26 Classic which has a more modern feel but is decidedly James Bond-esque with its gleaming finish and cream, leather seating. How you spend your time is totally up to you – for some, a tour of the lake with your guide is the perfect way to brush up on history, taking a look at the 16th-century villa that Leonardo da Vinci loved to visit. For others, the day might be spent bobbing around calmly in the water, diving into the deep blue and relaxing in the sun, perhaps with a trip to a small town or village for lunch.
Take A Cookery Class
Lake Como is a cornucopia of Italian culture, one which we’re sure you’ll want to experience as much as you can. One of the best ways to do so is via a cooking class, and we loved cooking with a local mother and daughter – making fresh pasta and tiramisu at their family’s cookery studio in the heart of Como. Hosted at a stylish, split-level studio with a huge open kitchen, sunken lounge and beautiful central table, first you’ll be wined and dined with bruschetta, cheese platters decorated with figs, and sliced meats while you get to know the other guests. Our chefs were brilliant; witty, warm and just a little bit cheeky, they’ll give everyone a job to do, tease your pasta rolling technique, insist you try the tiramisu and encourage you to keep sipping on bubbles throughout. Over the course of two hours there’ll be small breaks for snacks and chats, while you learn how to make two types of pasta from scratch, along with a fresh sauce and an easy tiramisu recipe, before sitting down to enjoy the spoils. Sitting by the lake and enjoying luxurious lunches is all well and good, but an experience like this offers the chance to engage, ask questions and meet some locals, which ups the tempo of your holiday and creates memories you’ll be laughing about for weeks after.
Jump The Bridge At Nesso
Lake Como is punctuated by picturesque villages and certain spots are a rite of passage, such as the likes of Bellagio town, where the rich and famous do their shopping. Not quite as well known is close-by Nesso – a smattering of houses which sit either side of its famous bridge connecting the village over a deep, natural gorge. Splitting the hamlets into two, over centuries the gorge has created a mesmerising waterfall bubbling away at its centre. Known locally as Orrido di Nesso, young and old love to jump from the bridge where the water is deep and take a swim in the lake. Once you’ve dried off, there’s plenty more to see such as the Piazza Castello, which sits further up the hill, where you’ll find the old remnants of an ancient castle with crumbling walls and turrets. You can also take a walk along the Via Coatesa – but fair warning – this route isn’t for the faint hearted thanks to the hundreds and hundreds of small, stone steps to get around the banks of the lake. If you can brave it, though, there’s paths, buildings, monuments and views that date back almost a thousand years.
Spend The Day At Grand Tremezzo Hotel’s Spa
Grand Hotel Tremezzo’s T Spa is set in Villa Carlotta’s famed gardens. Built in the 1700s and originally known as Villa Emilia, this special spa space was once Villa Carlotta’s library a place for study and contemplation. Unlike the sleek, modern spas we’re used to today, this incredible work of architecture features original floor mosaics and stunning frescoes echoing its fascinating past. The relaxation lounge brings a touch of contemporary style to period features with large, cloud-like sofas, orb floor lights and curated bookshelves of fashion, travel and design titles. Nibble on fresh fruits and healthy snacks, sip iced lemon, mint or grapefruit water, and gaze out at the view, before enjoying a massage or facial using Santa Maria Novella products, a heritage Italian perfumery brand established 800 years ago. From the Sleep Ritual treatment which uses plants found around the lake to soothe your mind and body, to the stunning Italian hammam which is built entirely from white Lasa marble, you could spend days pampering here. But if you only have an afternoon, don’t miss the infinity pool which looks out across the lake. Swim a length, sit in the elevated Jacuzzi or relax in the whirlpool – we guarantee you’ll have forgotten about those work emails in no time.
Lead image credit: Hotel Grand Tremezzo
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