Think you know the Caribbean? Think again. Puerto Rico is more diverse than you might expect. While home to a cool capital and laid-back beaches – there’s so much more to discover. This is what to see and do in Puerto Rico, beyond San Juan.
As the fourth largest of the Caribbean islands, and split into six distinct regions, Puerto Rico’s charm goes well beyond both its capital city and its chilled-out beaches (though there are plenty of these too). The best way to explore this diverse island is to take a road trip circumnavigating the coastline.
In the North you’ll find culture and tradition; in the East, a tropical rainforest and beaches like no other; in the South, history, art and culture combine; and to the West there’s a surfing scene that’s widely considered the best in the Caribbean.
By all means, spend a few days in San Juan – there’s plenty to explore here too – but make the most of your trip by hitting the road and getting to know the rest of the island.
This is what to see and do in Puerto Rico, outside of its capital city, San Juan.
In partnership with Discover Puerto Rico.
In the South
Puerto Rico’s South truly has it all: a long and fascinating history (seen today through architecture, art and museums), and an equally impressive flora and fauna spanning beaches, cays and forests.
Ponce
Puerto Rico’s second city, Ponce, on the south coast of the island, is a (traffic dependant) hour or two drive from San Juan and rivals the capital on all levels – culture, history and architecture. During the 18th and 19th centuries, Ponce’s growth gave rise to the construction of elegant, ornate buildings, many with a neoclassical style, and many of which still stand today. Affectionately known as ‘museum city’ – thanks to its many exhibition centres, spanning art (Museo de Arte de Ponce), history (Museo de la Historia de Ponce), and rum (Don Q Rum Distillery) – its streets are also somewhat of a living, breathing museum, with stories at every turn. Stop at the 300-year-old Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe which tells a story of the city, including in the still-visible damage from a 2020 earthquake; look out for Parque de Bombas (you won’t miss this stand-out, red-and-black building) which was once the city’s main fire station and is now home to a museum honouring firefighters; and cross the main square to find Paseo Amor, a small street that the Ponce community would once frequent in the hopes of finding love – women using hand-held fans to signal their affection (or lack of it). Your best bet for getting under the city’s elegant façade and digging into its true-life stories is to take a tour with Isla Caribe, who pride themselves on unveiling the many layers and lives that make up the soul of the streets.
Guánica
From Ponce it’s a 30 minute drive west to Guánica, a beachy-vibes seaside town that’s also home to Bosque Seco de Guánica, a 9,000-acre biosphere reserve, bursting with nature. Keen birdwatchers (as well as those with a more casual interest) should watch out for the 130 species flying the skies, which include the Puerto Rican nightjar (also known as the guabairo), the Caribbean martin, the brown pelican, and the musical (and colourful) Adelaide’s Warbler. Hikers and bikers, you’ll find 12 trails to follow through the forest, ranging in length and difficulty, many of them passing by remote beaches which make for welcome spots to cool off at. Ballena Beach is one of the best.
La Parguera
They say nothing worthwhile comes easy, and in La Parguera you won’t find any beaches to casually stroll to, but instead a series of cays (or cayos in Spanish) which, a bit like the Florida Keys, are small islands out at sea, formed of shallow sandbanks and mangroves. Hire a boat to make the journey easy, or hop onto a chiliboat and pedal out to explore them. As the sun sets there’s a real vibe emanating from La Parguera’s cayos as groups of friends rock up – music blasting from their boats, beers in hand – to watch the sun sink into the sea. This might be a magical experience, but it’s not the star of the La Parguera show. That’s reserved for the nearby bioluminescent bay where – once the sun has entirely disappeared and night has truly fallen – you’ll jump into a black sea, under the shadow of the moon, to discover the bright lights of neon blue-green microorganisms. Lit by touch, they shine brightly, radiating their light from your head to toes, swirling around you as you swim. A surreal and almost mystical experience – this is one of those once-in-a-lifetime adventures that needs to be seen to be believed.
In the West
Surfers, listen up – Puerto Rico’s west coast is one of the top spots in the Caribbean to catch waves – whether you’re a beginner, know your way around a surfboard, or consider yourself a pro.
Rincón
Puerto Rico is known as the surfing capital of the Caribbean, and Punta Borinquen, in the northwest, was the first place in the Caribbean to be classified as a World Surfing Reserve – an accolade which recognises a destination’s preservation of the waves and environment. But nearby Rincón is where it’s at today, and its eight kilometres of coastline offer surfing, yes, but also opportunity for snorkelling, scuba diving, parasailing, jet skiing, kayaking… and a whole lot more! The aptly named Sandy Beach is probably the most popular spot here, perhaps as much for its post-surf hangouts such as Jack’s Shack and Café 413 as for the waves themselves. Surf season in Puerto Rico roughly spans December to April, but beginners may want to consider arriving a little earlier to catch the waves sans crowds.
In the North
Though we recommend seeing as much of the island as you can, sometimes it’s just not possible. If you’re landing in San Juan and are short on time, the northern coastal towns of Dorado and Loíza are both a 30-minute drive from the airport (Dorado to its west, Loíza to its east).
Dorado
In Spanish, ‘dorado’ means ‘golden’ and it’s an apt name – not only because of the region’s gold-coloured sands, but also for the lifestyle you’ll find here – this is the chic place-to-be if you’re looking for high-end hotels, elegant beachfront dining, and access to some of the best golf courses in Puerto Rico. Without a doubt, the best place to stay is Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, for its 1,400 acres of barefoot luxury with spacious bedrooms, ocean views from almost all corners, restaurants spanning Mediterranean, Latin and Asian flavours, plus a spa offering locally inspired treatments. Other places to stay include Embassy Suites by Hilton, and a wonderful offering of smaller, independent villas and rentals. But don’t be fooled: Dorado isn’t all about the resorts and beaches. Take time to learn about the island’s native Taínos and their Spanish colonisation, pay a visit to the Catholic church, and go forest bathing at the 35-acre Finca Gaia, which is home to more than 300 native and endemic trees. A dinner of fresh seafood at El Carreton De Lola or El Ladrillo is an ideal way to end the day.
Loíza
Puerto Rican roots can be traced back to many cultures and communities, including Taíno, Spanish and West African, and, in Loíza – a town that saw members of the Yoruba tribe settle during the 16th century – an Afro-Puerto Rican culture makes this region distinct from others. That’s not to say you won’t find this cultural influence across the island – you will, and you only have to look at a menu or two to find Afro-Caribbean cuisine such as the deep-fried plantain dish (mofongo – which has become Puerto Rico’s national dish) or the meat, fish or vegetable-stuffed patties (pasteles) cooked in plantain leaves. Make an afternoon of taste-testing all the dishes in Loíza, ideally hopping stall-to-stall (known as the act of chinchorreo in Puerto Rico), before heading to the beach (La Posita and Aviones are both good options), or visiting the coastal mangrove forest. Time your visit to coincide with the Festival of Saint James for a true Afro-Puerto Rican cultural immersion; here bomba and plena music resonate through the streets as masked Vejigantes dance the day away – the music and masks both with African roots and heritage. Or take a trip back in time at María de la Cruz Cave, an archaeological site dating back to 4000 BC and showcasing Taíno artefacts including pottery and marine fossils.
In the East
Nature rules in Puerto Rico’s East, which is home to tropical rainforests, secluded beaches, small cays and a bioluminescent bay.
El Yunque National Forest
A 30-minute drive inland, south-east from Loíza, El Yunque National Forest is the only tropical rainforest in the US National Forest System and is home to 240 endemic plants, alongside almost 70 species of birds, 10 species of bats, plus lizards and the coquí, a Puerto Rican tree frog. You might explore the forest from a zip line, on horseback or using an ATV, but the most popular way to get into its heart is via the many hiking trails that map through the trees, many of them passing by canyons and natural pools fed by cascading waterfalls – ideal for cooling dips mid-hike. Start your journey at the Visitor Centre to plan your route (guided hikes are also available), pack a picnic for the journey, and reward yourself as the day comes to an end at one of the nearby restaurants – Puerto-Rican Don Pepe is a popular choice found less than three miles from the forest.
Fajardo
On the east coast of Puerto Rico, beaches abound – with snorkelling, kayaking or simply sunbathing popular ways to spend the day. In Fajardo, Seven Seas is one of the most well-known, but it’s worth venturing off-the-beaten-beach-path to seek out Playa Escondida and Playa Colorá; you’ll need to hike to both – but will be rewarded with empty sands and untouched waters to sink and splash into. Or sail out to sea, to the Cordillera Natural Reserve, where mini cays that feel almost like private islands are yours for the day, to swim and snorkel amongst an abundant marine life.
But perhaps most impressive of all in Fajardo is the Laguna Grande Bioluminescent Bay, a night-time wonderland where microorganisms emit a glowing neon green-blue light when touched; one of three bio bays in Puerto Rico. It’s hard to describe the feelings this natural wonder will leave you with as you swish through their neon-lit show in a clear-bottomed kayak, but awe, fascination and surprise are three emotions you’ll no doubt experience – alongside a lasting impression of just how impressive nature can be when we take the time to admire it.
Yet immersion in (and connection with) nature is something that all of Puerto Rico offers, thanks to its verdant rainforests, beautiful beaches, towering waterfalls, magical bio bays and plentiful mangroves, coral, flora and fauna. Yes, this is an island with impressive cities, stories to tell, delicious food and a wide-ranging culture, but it’s in the abundance of nature – and the feeling of stillness and calm that only it can bring – that its true magic lies.
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