The first Monday of May is the biggest night in the global fashion calendar. The annual Met Gala sees the great and good of the industry come together for one star-studded evening to celebrate the New York museum’s blockbuster summer exhibition, which this year spotlights the Black dandy.
Superfine: Tailoring Black Style at The Met looks at how this enduring aesthetic has shaped Black identity in the Atlantic diaspora. Dandyism, historically defined as men who are extremely devoted to style and approach it as a discipline, first emerged in the 18th century and has changed the way men dress today. It’s the Costume Institute’s first exhibition since 2003’s Men in Skirts to focus exclusively on menswear, and is garnering deserved hype.
“Dandyism can seem frivolous, but it often poses a challenge to or a transcendence of social and cultural hierarchies,” said guest curator Monica L Miller, whose book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, inspired the exhibition. “It asks questions about identity, representation and mobility in relation to race, class, gender, sexuality and power. This exhibition explores dandyism as both a pronouncement and a provocation.”
We tend to think of flamboyantly fabulous men in relation to Dandyism, from historical style icons Oscar Wilde and Lord Byron to modern fashion heroes A$AP Rocky and Andre 3000. But women have also adopted this masculine way of dressing, branding themselves quaintrelles and dandizettes. The word ‘quaintrelle’, as one online dictionary describes, is defined as “a woman who emphasises a life of passion expressed through personal style, leisurely pastimes, charm, and cultivation of life’s pleasures.” Think Marlene Dietrich in her suit and tails, Coco Chanel in her all-black, androgynous looks and Tilda Swinton’s striking, eclectic style.
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“It’s the details of masculine tailoring that make it so timeless and impactful on women,” says celebrity stylist Sarah-Rose Harrison, who has worked with actors including Victor Alli, Jessica Gunning and Richard Gadd. “It communicates strength and instils an inner and outer confidence that often reads best through the posture of the woman wearing it as they take up space (thanks to those extra shoulder pads) and enables them to sit taller.”
Key to quaintrelle dressing is not to copy what a man wears; this is less about adopting male costume and more about reinterpreting it through the female lens. “A female dandy doesn’t imitate masculinity, she reimagines it through her own eyes, with a personal flair and a touch of elegance,” says Kay Barron, Fashion Director at Net-A-Porter. “Her wardrobe features oversized tailoring, low-rise trousers, blazers with large lapels, crisp shirts, and thoughtfully curated accessories which often include a tie as a subtle nod to classic menswear. Her style is a statement of power, intellect, and individuality.”
Here, four style experts explain how to embrace our inner quaintrelle and weave masculine tailoring into our own wardrobes.
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START WITH AN OVERSIZED BLAZER
“A great blazer is worth its weight in gold,” says Harrison. “All you need is a classic black oversized style (The Frankie Shop’s Bea blazer is elite), that will see you through every season and event, from pub drinks to weddings and Christmas parties. I wear my beloved Raey blazer bi-monthly as I love it so dearly and can’t bear the idea of wearing it out. It’s an investment that consistently meets you where you are; I’m 12 weeks postpartum and the oversized blazers that were the backbone of my pre-pregnancy life were very kind to me through my pregnancy and have continued to cocoon me as I adjust to my new body. Also, the underpinning of every great blazer is a great T-shirt, and there is no better version on earth than Uniqlo’s Airism.”
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NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE POWER OF A WHITE SHIRT
“Tailoring can be seen as an extension of a capsule wardrobe – versatile pieces that look just as stylish when paired together as they do on their own,” says Barron. “For me, a classic white shirt is always a winner and I love this one from The Frankie Shop. The longer hem at the back adds a touch of sophistication. I also have a vintage suit from Saint Laurent which I have had for years and it will stay in my wardrobe forever.”
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THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAIL
“When it comes to tailoring of any variety, but particularly masculine, it all comes down to the cut and finish of the silhouette on the shape of the wearer,” explains Harrison. “For instance, when fitting an oversized blazer on a client I always look to temper or lean into the volume that it creates, whether that’s by exaggerating the proportions and adding in a shoulder pad or cinching in a blazer at the waist with a belt. It’s the same for trousers; a languid pair of trousers calls out for either a point-toe heel to lengthen and sharpen, or a belt to refine the waist.”
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TAILORING WORKS ON HOLIDAY TOO
“Warmer climates are a great opportunity to play with lighter fabrics and linen suits are a perfect example. You can also swap out a blazer for a waistcoat and this linen blend style from Blazé Milano is perfect for holidays. A polished short suit is also a great alternative and Victoria Beckham offers some strong options.”
CHOOSE DECONSTRUCTED SUITING FOR A MODERN TAKE
“Oversized tailoring is the most contemporary way of doing suiting now,” says Citizen Femme’s Style Director Rachel Story. “Think of Michelle Pfeiffer in the Saint Laurent spring/summer 2025 campaign. I like sharp shoulders and puddling hemlines, which lengthen the leg and feel more nonchalant than a super streamlined silhouette. It’s undone corporate chic. Head to Atelier Ninety Five for reworked vintage versions that are made to last.”
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INVEST IN A THREE-PIECE SUIT FOR MAXIMUM MILEAGE
“My go-to is a three piece suit because you can wear each piece individually,” says content creator Karen Blanchard, who has been wearing menswear as womenswear for as long as she can remember. “The waistcoat can be worn as a top during the summer, and the trousers can be styled with a T-shirt or a vest for a pared-back look. The blazer has the most mileage – I wear mine all the time. Saint Laurent is my absolute favourite; I have a weakness for their strong silhouettes and cuts.”
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ACCESSORISE WITH AN UNEXPECTED SHOE
“It’s tempting to wear a heel or a loafer with mannish tailoring, but choose something less obvious like a fisherman sandal,” says Story. “It feels more modern somehow. A minimalist thong shoe works really well for summer. The Row does the best versions, but there’s plenty on the high street with more affordable price tags.”
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Lead image: Shutterstock
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