Copenhagen is a quietly confident place: the design and restaurant scene feels unmatched in its own way, yet there is nothing contrived about this city.
The Danish capital is packed with spots that will scratch the itches of even the most discerning aesthetes: neighbourhood coffee shops and beautifully curated bookshops compete with galleries to be crowned the most aesthetic. No wonder it is all over Instagram: this city is very photogenic. Though not one to brag, one thing’s for sure, after a weekend in Copenhagen you’ll (reluctantly) leave feeling very well-fed and well-inspired.
Including where to stay, eat, shop, and visit – here’s how to spend a weekend (or week!) in Copenhagen.
STAY
Hotel Bella Grande
A Wes Anderson film meets a girls’ trip at Hotel Bella Grande; a pink paradise that caricatures all the Instagrammable moments you’ll want to snap as soon as you step into the lobby (but with a typically Scandinavian refinement). This hotel doesn’t take itself too seriously but has and does everything you need it to for a refined stay in a very stylish city. Once a Venetian palazzo, an ornate but friendly exterior greets you, complete with yellow and orange awnings, basket-clad bikes for guests to borrow, and a leafy al fresco terrace, setting the tone for your stay. Swing open the glass doors to the lobby, where a technicolour of brown-toned tiles meet the mirrored check-in desk. It’s here you’ll be handed your red tasseled iron room key and shown to your room.
Bella Grande is centred around a pink-walled internal courtyard (covered by an ornate glass roof that floods the ground floor with natural light during the day) which is the hub of the hotel. This is where the tables of the hotel’s excellent Italian restaurant, Donna, spill into. Regardless of the day of the week, Donna always feels busy, and this buzzy vibe carries through to the rest of the hotel. Upstairs, if your room overlooks the internal courtyard, throw open your window and join the party at Donna while getting ready to head out for the evening. The rooms themselves are simply furnished – very on par for classically Scandinavian minimalism – featuring light teak wood floors and double beds topped with duvets Scandi-style (two singles rather than a double), and velvet seating. The fuchsia red and white tiled en-suite bathroom steals the show, with large mirrors and twin sinks perfect for getting ready in with friends.
EAT
Breakfast and Brunch
Copenhagen is home to the cinnamon bun, and there are a smattering of excellent bakeries around the city. Whether you’re a breakfast person or not, this city ensures that you’ll be well fed every morning. Alongside the famous Hart bakery (which you can find in almost every neighbourhood) these are a few of our favourites.
Atelier September
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Did you catch the whipped butter phenomenon that had every trendy London restaurant in its “entree” grip? Atelier September can be blamed (in a good way) for the welcomed spin on the classic bread and butter appetiser (now immortalised on the cover of their cookbook) but it’s not just that on the menu. Instead, opt for Danish classics like boiled eggs, thinly sliced cheese, and rye bread, or an incredible pancake – more like a ‘cake’ – topped with berries and cream cheese. Atelier September now has three spots across the city, but our favourite is their flagship spot on the corner of Kronprinsessegade 62.
Prolog
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Prolog is widely considered to serve the best coffee in Copenhagen. The cafe and coffee shop now has three outposts across the city: in the trendy Meatpacking district, where old warehouses now house bars and clubs, seeing the younger crowds through to the early hours; in Randersgade in the north; and in the residential neighbourhood of Frederiksberg. Each spot is simply furnished with light wood panelling, and white walls lined with cool books. The pastries, especially the cardamom buns, are pretty good too.
Lunch and Dinner
Copenhagen is famous for its à la carte style dining. Lots of the popular – and frankly, best – restaurants feature a set menu comprising of two to three courses for a set price.
Superbon
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It’s safe to say that Superbon lives up to its name. This Thai-inspired restaurant doesn’t do anything by halves: from the interiors to every course, you are promised a vibrant experience. Let your meal commence with a glass of chilled Champagne and a selection of fresh oysters. Superbon takes this classic appetiser to the next level (a common theme at this restaurant) by serving the oysters doused in a nam jin sauce or ponzu with chives and sesame – delicious, we can attest. For the courses, we recommend doing it the Copenhagen way with the set menu to share “family style” for a great selection of everything. Highlights include the tuna carpaccio served on a bed of wagyu beef topped with miso herbs, and the raw salmon in an aromatic chilli sauce. As part of the Cofoco hospitality group, who look after some of the most stylish spots in the city, Superbon’s interiors are playful and contemporary, boasting an open-kitchen, velvet seating, old-fashioned curtain details, and shelves stacked with colourful lamps, ornate plates, coffee table books, and more. On the way to the bathrooms, you’ll pass by a mini vintage arcade in the corridor to add to the fun.
Poulette
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For a quick yet delicious bite to eat – without needing to commit to a tasting menu or several courses – head to Poulette. This small, deli-style spot only has two things on the menu (a fried chicken sandwich and a fried tofu sandwhich) and does both excellently. Dripping in their homemade spicy sauce (order a portion of fries for dipping on the side) these will fuel you ready for an afternoon of exploring on foot. The next door wine bar, Pompette, is perfect for a quick glass of white to wash the sandwich down.
Italo Disco
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The sartorial crowds flock to Italo Disco on a Friday and Saturday night for weekend energy and great Italian plates. The restaurant offers a set menu every day that comprises of eight courses of excellent vongole, fresh pastas, creative starters, and a dessert. Order a bottle of wine for the table and soak in the playful, retro vibes.
Bottega Barlie
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Cosplaying as a Parisian brasserie from the outside (with a beautiful terrace that is popular for a summer al fresco aperitif, and heated with complimentary blankets for winter) Bottega Barlie is another favourite among neighbourhood locals. Inside, find a beautiful bar that blends rustic walls and classic French dining with a modern metal bar. On the menu, cleverly sourced natural wines by small producers marry up with Italian and French inspired dishes, to the tune of brown butter monkfish and beef tartare.
Noma
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Noma is a special spot in Copenhagen, but there’s no need to wait for a special occasion to enjoy it (if you’re lucky enough to get a booking). Unsuspecting from the outside, taking on the form of a maritime shed, inside a three-Michelin star restaurant awaits. Over the past 20 years, Chef Rene Redzepi has learnt to craft art in the form of food with a fine-tuned attention to the world around, from carefully fishing marine ingredients to foraging and gardening on land. Take time to enjoy the 20 courses.
Bar Amore
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Just like every other trendy European city, Copenhagen offers a whole host of cool wine bars serving up clever menus of small plates and bar snacks to share. Bar Amore is a great option for seeing the early evening through into a late night out in the city. For plates of freshly rolled pasta and generously poured negronis, Danes flock to Bar Amore in Frederiksberg. By the team behind Mangia and Circolo (two other spots to bookmark), who know exactly what they’re doing when it comes to excellent Italian-inspired fare and great restaurant vibes, you’ll be well looked after.
Where To Shop
Tableau
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“Fresh flowers have a profound impact on your mood and wellbeing,” say Tableau. We agree. Conceptual studio, exhibition space, and store, Tableau Copenhagen is a favourite among Copenhagen’s (and Europe’s) creatives. Founded in 2018 by Julius Værnes Iversen, Tableau’s floral design and botanical installations span projects with Hermès and Studio Stockholm. Swing by the pink-toned store (the buckets of fresh flowers outside are your first clue that you’re in the correct place) for a burst of inspiration.
New Mags
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New Mags has their finger on the culture pulse when it comes to all of the hottest (and most aesthetic) new coffee table books and magazines, spanning design, food, fashion, photography, interiors, and more. Designed by Jonas Bjerre Poulsen from Norm Architects, the Copenhagen concept store and showroom displays newly published reads in a sophisticated way that very much suits the quality of each carefully selected book. New Mags say it best with “books remind us of what we love and what’s important. What we have been, what we are and what we become”. Swing by the store for an invigorating browse and to top up your ‘to read’ wishlist (most likely) by tenfold.
Frama
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A minimalist’s dream, Frama is a multi-disciplinary brand with a beautifully curated range of products spanning self care and beauty to furniture and decorative objects (are you spotting a theme here?). All focussed around “mindful living” you’ll find wood crafted cabinetry, oak tables, and earth-toned ceramics, alongside a range of wonderfully smelling diffusers and hand creams. Adjoining the store is the cafe Apotek 57 – mull over your wish list at lunch, with a plate of the daily salad whipped up by chef Chiara Barla.
ANOTHERNué
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One thing about visiting Copenhagen: prepare to be out-dressed: it feels like the Scandi sartorial crowds are a step ahead at all times, adorning the coolest brands by independent designers and latest trends. But all is not lost, thanks to the stylish women’s clothing store ANOTHERNué, stocked with your new favourite brands, from Aeron and Róhe Frames to Coral shoes and Cala Jade bags, and everyday-style jewellery pieces too.
Lié Studio
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Founded by the eternally stylish twins, Amalie and Cecilie Moosgaard, Lié Studio’s timeless and versatile jewellery pieces and leather belts and bags have quickly become the It-accessory staples for fashionistas globally. Find the Lié Studio store in good company, on the same street as Louise Roe’s stylish store. Inside, the interiors, designed in collaboration with Julius Nielsen homage the original 1914 facade with large glass windows, with a chic central cabinet where drawers display the lovely jewellery pieces.
What To Do
Kunsthal Charlottenborg
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Kunsthal Charlottenborg is Copenhagen’s fabulous modern and contemporary art gallery, and also the official gallery for the Royal Danish Academy of Art. As part of the Charlottenborg Palace, the ivy-clad building dates back to the 17th century and is centred around a historic courtyard. Inside, there is always a dynamic variety of temporary exhibitions showing. The gallery also houses a cinema with an agenda-setting programme of experimental films, a well-stocked book shop and the Apollo Bar by Frederik Bille Brahe.
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek
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The gallery’s name is a giveaway, as it houses the private art collection of Carl Jacobsen, the son of the founder of the Carlsberg Breweries. However, we promise that it’s much chicer than it sounds. The gallery is centred around the neo-classical old building, with a large glass-domed ceiling, now full with plants and a lovely gallery cafe and shop. Unusually, the Glyptoteket was originally designed to be a “daylight museum” and rely on natural light only meaning (although additional wings and rooms with artificial lighting have since been built) you’ll find lots of these glass-roofed rooms and plenty of skylights around the building. Around the stuccoed gallery wings, find lots of Ancient Greek and Roman statues – including an entire room that looks a bit like a mini Acropolis – as well as more recent works by French sculptor Auguste Rodin. The gallery houses over 10,000 artworks to see, from fauvist paintings to impressionist masterpieces.
Dip In The River
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It’s a lesser known fact that half of Copenhagen is actually – technically speaking – situated on an island. Split in half by the Nyhavn River that runs through the length of the city, this water flows directly from the Baltic Sea meaning it’s an inviting bright blue shade, even during the winter. As soon as Copenhagen warms up for the spring and summer, the city flocks riverside for cooling dips in one of the harbour baths and swimming zones. Head to the Rosforth & Rosforth wine bar under a bridge on the Christianshavn side of the river for a sun-trapped swim spot and post-swim glass of wine.
Visit the Botanical Garden
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Copenhagen’s ten hectares of botanical garden are located in the heart of the city. The walled space is ticketed, but worth it: home to 13,000 species of plants as well as a large glass-built butterfly house and tropical palm house on the north side – both of which have been around since 1874.
Lead image credit: Hotel Bella Grande
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