When Natalie Sytner, a former fashion PR, set up Bettina Ceramica in 2018, she had one goal – to celebrate the craftmanship and tradition of Italian ceramics.
Since then, she has worked with family-run businesses across the country, from Sicily to Venice, to create small batches of rare, beautiful pieces, spanning plates, bowls, candleholders, wall hangings and vases.
Sytner’s obsession with Italy began with her Ligurian mother, Bettina, whom the business was named after. The family spent summers in her native home, where afternoons at the beach were mixed with trips to the local market where her mother would pick up vintage linens. Today, Sytner’s father lives in the seaside town of Bordighera, the dream-like setting of Andre Aciman’s evocative book Call Me By Your Name. Every August, she decamps there with her family for a restful, sun-drenched month. “It really feels like home to me,” she tells us.
Here, she shares her insider’s guide to Liguria, from the best souvenir spots to heavenly, unspoilt beaches and family-run trattorias truly worth their (butter and) salt.
What makes Liguria so special?
Liguria is amazing as it still feels relatively unknown in comparison to so many other very touristy areas – it’s also a large region, so you can see and do so much there. It’s very real. Certain coastal spots are areas with holiday homes owned by families in Milan and Turin – you only hear Italian voices.
The best time of year to visit is…
Anytime! I actually love the heat and crazy hustle and bustle of the late summer – everyone is on holiday and taking long siestas in the afternoon. But it can get very hot. Like most areas of Italy, May and September are the most comfortable climate.
How long should we stay for to see it properly?
It’s a large region, with an incredible coastline, and is equally stunning in-land, so you might have to take a few trips. A great way to travel in Liguria is to take the train all the way along the coast. You can start very close to the French border to the coastal city of La Spezia, ending up close to Tuscany.
Essential items to pack…
A film camera, some playing cards, and a copy of Andre Aciman’s Call Me By Your Name. The original book was set in Bordighera where my father lives.
Our first pitstop should be…
Bordighera at the very top tip of Liguria, and then travel down the coastline.
Your favourite hotel to check-in at is…
Cenobio Dei Dogi in Camogli – a hotel that my parents have been staying in since before I was born, and that I now stay at with my family. It’s old-school, and totally unique.
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Are there any must-see culture spots?
For me, Genoa, the capital of Liguria, is magical. The architecture, the history – it’s incredibly special. Must-sees there for food and culture are Cavo Pasticceria, Cambi Cafè, Via Garibaldi 12, and Palazzo Durazzo.
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What tourist favourite is truly worth doing?
Visiting the Cinque Terre. It’s so popular for a reason, truly the most beautiful architectural landscape in the world. The buildings all sit on top of each other, perched atop beautiful hills – and the colour palette is like nothing else.
Photographed by Daniel J. Schwarz
Which is your favourite town and why? What should we do there?
Camogli that I mentioned above has been a family favourite for generations. I might be biased, but I don’t think you’ll find a more beautiful spot anywhere in Italy. And I know that’s a big statement! Walk around the beachfront hillside village, hire a little boat for the day and go to San Fruttuoso Abbey. Come back in time to lie on the beach at one of the small beach clubs and have dinner on the terrace at Cenobio Dei Dogi.
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Which are your favourite beaches and why?
Baia Di Paraggi and Spiaggia dell’Olivetta – tiny heavenly little coves in the winding roads in between Santa Margherita and Portofino. Closer to home for me is La Spiaggetta dei Balzi Rossi, a beach club in Ventimiglia. It’s a little private beach, you’re driven to the spiaggetta in golf carts from the car park, and you stay there all day. It’s totally private, with wonderful swimming and a fabulous restaurant. I almost don’t want to share this one!
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What would be your dream itinerary?
A coastal train from west to east Liguria, looking out at the sea from beginning to end, stopping at small fishing ports along the way.
Should we hire a car? Or can we use public transport?
In an ideal world, a train ride down the coast would be amazing, and then to have a car to check out all the different little fishing towns. But, you can definitely get by with public transport here.
Bettina Ceramica ceramics and antique tablecloth
Which is your favourite restaurant in Liguria and why?
I have two. Try Ristorante A Scibretta in Bordighera Alta, a lovely small family run restaurant with a great outdoor terrace on the perimeter of the old town. Everything is homemade, the ravioli with burro e salvia is the best I’ve ever had. Secondly, Iter in Vallebona is not only located in one of the most beautiful hillside towns, but it’s also very distinctive. The owners are a very cool local couple who have brought something totally new to the area. It’s original and honestly the weekly changing set menu is breathtaking… especially when paired with their wines.
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Are there any experiences we should definitely do?
Monesteroli staircase in the Cinque Terre, a 2,000 step stairway through woods and vineyards.
The one place only locals know about…
The old town in Bordighera (Bordighera Alta), where my father lives. A lot of people who live in Turin and Milan have holiday homes there – it’s very old fashioned and a classic Italian summer beach destination. The old town is up the hill from the beach and a complete hidden gem. The magic is that it isn’t a tourist destination.
For the best views head to…
Hanbury Botanical Gardens, at the very tip of Liguria on the French border. The view from the entrance on the roadside looking down over the villa, pergola and garden is just incredible.
The drink to order at the bar…
A glass of Vermentino white wine made locally. It’s crisp and fresh.
How should we spend the final day of our trip?
Definitely on the beach, eating a freshly caught and fried fritto misto.
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If we buy one keepsake to take home what should it be?
A jar of proper Ligurian fresh pesto. Nothing else compares. Also, pay a visit to my good friend Pasquale’s atelier, Ultraviolhat, in Bordighera Alta – he makes handmade crochet hats, as taught by his mama. They’re each one of a kind and he often uses colours inspired by the Med and the local area.
In one word Liguria is..
Heaven.
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Any Questions or Tips to add?