In our Suite Staycation column, Gina Jackson – hotel expert and author of British Boutique Hotels – tours some of the best hotel suites in the UK. Next up, HOLM, Somerset.
Best for: An under-the-radar foodie escape
This is the pilgrimage-worthy, unsuspecting countryside bolthole helmed by the chef behind many of London’s favourite foodie haunts.
Give us the lowdown
Image by Ed Reeve
When chef Nicholas Balfe set up shop in this quiet patch of Somerset, the move was an unexpected departure from Levan, Salon, and Larry’s: the popular south London restaurants that he successfully ran for years, all known for their honest, ingredient-led cooking. Unlike nearby Bruton (overrun with chi-chi Londoners), there’s not much to draw visitors to South Petherton, the sleepy village in south Somerset where he chose to decamp. And yet, come they have, thanks to HOLM. This pilgrimage-worthy restaurant with rooms has put this corner of the county on the map, proving itself to be a destination that gourmands will make a purposeful detour for. Although sampling the restaurant’s epic tasting menu is the main agenda of any visit here, it’s worth making the most of your trip and staying the night: after lining your stomach at dinner, you’ll feel rather smug about simply rolling upstairs to bed.
What’s in the suite?
Image by Dave Watts
Bent woods, delicate rice paper lanterns, and ochre linens feature in all seven of the hotel’s uniquely designed bedrooms, each named after a different British tree. The original lime plaster on some walls has been laid bare, allowing for a rugged, distressed look, while abstract artworks add a swoosh of colour to otherwise muted palettes. I stayed up in the eaves in Rowan: there aren’t suites here per se, but three of the rooms are notably more spacious than the rest. Rowan featured a super-king size bed with egg-shaped bath plonked directly opposite it, along with a squashy sofa for kicking back in. The ensuite bathroom was amply stocked with Haeckels body lotions, and fitted with a smartly tiled shower. Note that there are no TVs at Holm, allowing guests to switch off as much as possible.
How’s the crowd?
You’ll find a mix of Somerset locals and epicureans from all over following their noses (and stomachs) at HOLM. On the weekends, in-the-know Londoners flock down from the city.
Where can we eat and drink?
The food takes centre stage here, with the restaurant being somewhat of a destination in itself: gourmands from around the South-West clamour after chef-owner Nicholas Balfe’s seasonally led cooking. À la carte and tasting menus are available at dinner, and include plenty of fun surprises, from a trio of ‘snacks’ to kick off your meal (think layered potato topped with cod’s roe) to tiny caneles and handmade truffles to round off the experience. The five-course tasting menu proudly utilises local produce sourced from the surrounding landscape, and segues from delicate ravioli to meaty cuts. Afterwards, overnight guests can retreat to a residents-only lounge upstairs for an after-dinner tipple.
Image by Ed Reeve
Breakfast the next morning is certainly no afterthought, and puts some five-star hotels’ offering to shame. You’ll be greeted with homemade granola, apple compote and yoghurt, before the main affair: a full English but not as you know it. Instead, house-cured trout with lemony vinagrette, crispy layered potatos, and tomatoes are the order of the day. This is all topped off with warm, just-baked cinnamon scrolls – and endless coffees to wash it all down. Over the weekends, the restaurant’s countertop is laden with tempting cakes, cookies, and sausage rolls: you’ll struggle to check out without grabbing some homemade treats for the road.
What’s on the to-do list?
This is a restaurant with rooms rather than an all-frills hotel, so visit with that expectation in mind. Grab a pair of wellies and head out for a wander across the fields, or join foraging expeditions led by Nicholas himself: pluck wild garlic in the nearby woodland, before heading back to the kitchen for live cooking demos.
Are there any stand-out touches worth mentioning?
Image by Dave Watts
A stay here guarantees a much more intimate experience than any five-star hotel can offer. Warm, intuitive service flows through from the restaurant to the bedrooms; if you need anything, just pop downstairs to speak to staff, who will make you feel like you’re staying at a private home rather than a hotel. The just-baked, fudgy chocolate cookies waiting in your bedroom upon arrival are a sweet touch.
What should we know before we go?
South Petherton is a relatively sleepy corner of Somerset, but there’s plenty to explore within easy driving distance: these are the kind of pastures where having a car is not only useful, but pretty much essential. Head into quaint Frome for pastries at Rye Bakery before zipping over to Bruton for a wander around the Hauser & Wirth estate, followed by lunch at relaxed wine bar The Old Pharmacy. For cider lovers, a tour of nearby Burrow Hill Cider Farm is a must – and only a short drive away. Alternatively, HOLM is the ideal pit stop if you’re making your way further west into Devon or Cornwall.
What should we pack?
There are no frills required for dinner time: come as you are, and you’ll be welcomed warmly. Jeans and knitwear are just as appropriate as a pretty frock if you prefer to doll up. Bring suitable shoes for romping across the fields if you plan on exploring further afield.
Lead image credit: Image by Dave Watts
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Any Questions or Tips to add?