“This road will all be underground soon,” my taxi driver tells me as we speed along Poseidonos Avenue, a six-lane highway that sidles alongside the Greek capital’s slice of the Aegean Sea – in an area known as the Athens Riviera.
Stretching 15 miles from Piraeus – where ferries depart to the Greek islands – all the way to Glyfada, a high-end Athens suburb, Poseidonos Avenue is not exactly pretty. Nor is it for faint-hearted drivers (I should know, I learnt to drive here): cars, mopeds, motorbikes, trucks, lorries and pedestrians jostle for space across the six lanes, often navigating them at speeds far higher than they should. What it – and the roads that follow for another 30 miles towards Cape Sounio, making up the riviera – does have is views; stunning sea views that mesmerise me every time I find myself here.
“Look,” my taxi driver continues, pointing at hoardings hung along the perimeter of the former Athens airport, on the opposite side of the road to the beach, “this is what will be here instead”.
The seaside road in the Vouliagmeni section of the Athens Riviera
New Beginnings
The airport shut down in 2001 and lay abandoned for most of the 20 years that followed, aside from a few cast-aside Olympic Air planes from the late 1990s. The hoardings my taxi driver is pointing at show computer-generated images of sleek glass buildings, lavender-lined pathways, sea-front apartments and yacht-filled marinas – they depict what’s known as The Ellinikon, an €8 billion development project set to takeover the old airport site and change the face of the Athens Riviera.
Billed as the ‘largest urban regeneration project in Europe’ and designed as a 15-minute smart city, The Ellinikon will be built atop the airport site (and a section of this road, which will instead move underground) and is set to add 600 acres of green space to the Athens Riviera, along with 50 kilometres of walkways and cycle tracks, one kilometre of landscaped beach and over 6,000 acres of living space. It also aims to bring in more than one million tourists a year and to create 85,000 new jobs. For now, it’s a building site that I find myself passing often – but it seems to be developing at speed.
The abandoned Olympic Air planes at the old Athens airport. The disused airport is now being revitalised into The Ellinikon
Part of it is open already in fact: The Ellinikon Experience Park, a 75,000-square-metre public space – with a zen garden, outdoor fitness facilities, a children’s playground and a water maze – is set around the former airport hangars and has been transformed under the creative eye of Greek landscape artist, Thomas Doxiadis. In bringing his vision to life, Doxiadis recycled materials from the old airport site and used plants native to the Mediterranean to create this lush, green space. The Experience Park marks the beginning of a wider park that’s still in the making, and of the wider-still Ellinikon project of which Phase One – comprising the park, hotels, residences, shops, a marina, a casino, offices and Little Athens – is slated to open by 2027/2028.
But we should probably take things back a step or two. Athens, a city so famous for its history – the birthplace of democracy and the home of Plato – is somewhere that tourists today typically tend to visit for one of two reasons: to see the Acropolis, or as a stopover on the way to the Greek islands. Most visitors skip the city’s coastline altogether (and it’s not unheard of for people to not realise there’s a coastline here at all). But that wasn’t always the case.
In the 1960s and 70s, the Athens Riviera was the place to see and be seen – with a who’s who of celebrities and politicians, Greek and otherwise, flocking to its shores each summer. Over the years, the riviera’s charm began to fade – until recently, when the coastline started seeing new investment, attractions, hotels and interest. The Ellinikon included, but far from standing solo.
Bringing back the heyday
There’s really no other way to begin looking at the revival of the Athens Riviera than with the Four Seasons Astir Palace hotel – the first ever international luxury hotel brand to arrive on the Athens Riviera, and arguably the first high-end global hotel brand to open in the Greek capital too: the only other contenders are Hilton which opened in 1963 and has subsequently shut down; Grande Bretagne which was taken over by Marriott in 2013; Intercontinental in 1982; Sofitel Athens Airport in 2001; and Grand Hyatt Athens and Athens Marriott Hotel in 2018.
Although my connection with Four Seasons Astir Palace starts early on – I was one of the first guests to stay back when it opened in 2019 – I was also very late to the (literal) party. Before Four Seasons took over the property, it was known just as Astir Palace, and notable names to stay before me include Frank Sinatra, Nelson Mandela, Brigitte Bardot and Liza Minnelli.
But, as places like the French Riviera and the Amalfi Coast saw a sharp rise to global fame, and the Greek islands were popularised by the likes of Jackie Kennedy and Grace Kelly, the Athens Riviera saw a downturn.
Four Seasons Astir Palace brought it back with a bang.
As someone local to the area, I’ve visited many times – staying overnight twice and visiting countless times for summer-day lunches or summer-evening drinks. If I have friends in town looking for a beachy stay, I recommend the hotel. And if visitors opt for a hotel closer to the Acropolis, I still always recommend they visit for a drink. From the minute it (re)opened its doors in 2019, this hotel has been one of the city’s best – reflected in multiple accolades: most recently it was the only hotel in Greece to be awarded three keys by Michelin.
Nafsika Pool at Four Seasons Astir Palace
Why? Location, partly. With views stretching across the Aegean Sea, this is the place to go for a refined, get-away-from-it-all retreat, whether for a few hours, days or weeks. The rooms and suites (many of which have private pools) play into this too, with sea views to rival that of any island and split across two main buildings (Arion – best for privacy, and Nafsika – in the heart of all the action), plus a scattering of bungalows hidden amongst the pines.
But also because of its dining: by bringing in top-name restaurants and chefs, Four Seasons Astir Palace has redefined Athens’ see-and-be-seen coastline for the modern day. Global names – Beefbar and chef Nobu’s Matsuhisa – have made waves, Italian Mercato serves to-die-for pasta, and Mediterranean-inspired Pelagos has earnt the hotel its first Michelin star. All come with outdoor terraces and sea views, but it’s perhaps waterside Taverna 37 that truly has my heart thanks to its Greek staples served with an elevated twist. Don’t miss the prawn saganaki crafted with ouzo, tomato sauce, feta and red pepper.
Dining at Taverna 37 at Four Seasons Astir Palace
Four Seasons brought back the glamour of the region and remains the it-girl hotel of the riviera, but since its dramatic 2019 arrival, countless others have moved in too.
New for 2025 and beyond
In 2024, the Athens Riviera saw the opening of a new marina (May 2024), bringing global restaurants with it (Bagatelle opened here in November 2024) as well as high-end stores – Dior, Gucci, Rolex, Loro Piana and Saint Laurent included.
There’s new hotels too. One&Only Aesthesis opened on the Athens Riviera in late 2023 and is set within the space of a former beach club – a space that was a popular hangout for the well-heeled in the 50s and 60s. It’s the first Greek outpost from the global brand – and it celebrated by throwing a star-studded party attended by Kylie Minogue, Kim Catrall and Liam Hemsworth. Mandarin Oriental plans to move in by 2027 as part of The Ellinikon, as does Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Athens – and two Greek brands have chosen the coastline as their next special spot too: 91 Athens Riviera by Domes (next door to One&Only) and Grecotel’s The Roc Club (on the opposite side of the Four Seasons’ cove) both opened in mid-2024.
One&Only Aesthesis in the Glyfada area of the Athens Riviera
Then there’s Ace Hotel & Swim Club, which made its Greek debut in September 2024. Located in Glyfada, Ace took over what was once the Fenix Hotel, a 1970s-built property that formed part of a mid-19th-century Greece-wide initiative to create public beaches and hotels (known as the Xenia Hotels) as part of a post-war tourism strategy.
Greek architect Aris Konstantinidis was one of the key figures to spearhead the Xenia project hotels, and Ace highlight him as inspiration for their refurbishment of the property.
“We are committed to adaptive reuse. It’s a philosophy rooted in sustainability and a profound respect for history. We’re often captivated by the stories a site holds and find inspiration in the architectural ‘bones’ of existing buildings,” Meriem Soliman, chief brand officer at Ace Hotels tells us. “We were particularly drawn to the Brutalist façade of the Fenix Hotel – its radical angles, stark lines, and bold balconies were an incredible starting point for thinking about how to bring the building back to life”.
Renovated by French studio Ciguë, the Brutalist façade remains much as it always was, enhanced by a lick of paint and a David Hockney-inspired mural by Athens-based artist Claire Manent, who spent one night at this hotel in its former guise as Fenix. Balconies overlook the original striking pool, now dotted with double sunloungers adorned in a green-and-white striped fabric and topped with yellow-and-white parasols. There’s a retro-cool to the place that takes you back to the Athens Riviera’s golden era.
Inside, the retro-charm continues, but with an altogether more modern design. Reclaimed vintage furniture stands proud and vinyl turntables are placed by beds: mine came with four LPs, including one of the all-time best-selling albums in Greece, The Road by Mimis Plessas and Lefteris Papadopoulos (1969) and Yiorgos Romanos’ 1970s rock album, Two Little Blue Horses. The work of 18 contemporary Greek artists can be found throughout the hotel – including by Panos Profitis and Aristeidis Lappas; embroidered bedspreads by Salma Barakat, who calls both Athens and Cairo home; and prints by the late Alekos Fassianos, produced in collaboration with his estate.
Room interiors at Ace Hotel & Swim club. Photo credit: Bill Georgoussis. Art credit: ‘Study on Bull’ (2021) by Aristeidis Lappas; Oil on paper. Bedcover by Salma Barakat
As for why the Athens Riviera and why now? Soliman muses that “the area has always been beautiful and historic, but there’s a really special energy being generated there at this particular moment in time. We were deeply motivated by the opportunity to work with many of the young creatives bringing that new energy to the city, to build a destination that locals are proud to call their own.”
Sebastian at Ace Hotel & Swim Club Athens
Four Seasons may have kick-started the revival of the Athens Riviera, but many others are joining the efforts and continue to bring it back to life too. The resurgence of this European coastline – hotels, beaches, restaurants and beyond – shows no sign of stopping anytime soon.
What to do on the Athens Riviera
Soak up the elements at Lake Vouliagmeni
My favourite place in Athens on a hot summer’s day, the cooling waters of Lake Vouliagmeni are beaten only by its setting – this natural lake was discovered 2,000 years ago when the ceiling of a cave collapsed, revealing a stunning open-water lake set at the foot of surrounding cliffs. Its brackish water – replenished by both the sea and underwater thermal springs – is said to have healing powers thanks to its composition which includes potassium, calcium and natrium. Being a natural lake it also has fish; hundreds of tiny garra rufa – also known as the Doctor Fish, the shoal that nibbles away at dry and dead skin. Not only do the lake surrounds feel cooler than the rest of Athens (a true blessing during the hot July and August months) but you’ll come away with a (naturally induced) pedicure too – if you can stand still long enough for the fish to feed.
Delve into history at Cape Sounio and the Temple of Poseidon
Dedicated to the Ancient Greek god of the sea, the Temple of Poseidon has – appropriately – stood hillside on the Athens Riviera, looking out across the Aegean Sea, for around 2,500 years. Though smaller in size, it’s as old as the Parthenon – and it looks similar too, with Doric columns stretching skywards, once holding up a gabled roof. Spend the day under its shadows on the small Sounio Beach hopping from lounger to taverna to bar and back again, before hiking the 60-metre hill to the temple. Best visited in the evening, pray to Helios (God of the sun) for a show stopping sunset, and ask Zeus (God of the sky, thunder and lightning) to hold off on summer storms.
Take a one-day cruise to the nearby islands
The Athens Riviera is all about sea views, but take it up a notch and set sail on a one-day cruise from the city’s coastline to the Greek islands. Sailing daily to Aegina and Agistri, and with a swim stop somewhere in between the islands of Moni and Metopi, All Day Cruise sets sail on a (thoroughly updated) traditional wooden boat at 9am each day, dropping you back in the city in time for dinner and drinks. On board? Breakfast pastries and a Greek lunch, served with coffee, wine, beer or sangria – best taken from your lounger as you scan the horizon. During the island stops? Ice-cream to eat, churches to peek inside, tavernas to try, and bike rides to small beach coves. Everything is organised seamlessly for you – all you need to do is show up. Don’t forget your camera.
Visit Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center
Home to the Greek National Opera and the National Library of Greece, what more could you want from a cultural centre? At Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC) they give you lots. Design by Renzo Piano, SNFCC is perhaps the most impressive modern structure in a city so well known for its ancient architecture and, spread across over 200,000 square metres, is an iconic city spot. There’s a man-made lake with dancing fountains, a large park (it takes up 85 per cent of the total space) filled with fragrant herbs, olive trees and flowers dotted with benches, plus restaurants, cafés and food trucks. Then there’s the events, which include art exhibitions, performances, music and sports. But perhaps the best thing to do is to take the lift up to the top floor for a 360-view of the city and its coastline. From here you can spot the Acropolis in one direction and, on good weather days, the Saronic islands in the other.
Watch an open-air movie under the stars
As spring turns into summer, it’s almost a rite of passage for Greeks to head to an open-air cinema. You’ll find them across the country; in Athens, on the islands, and in the countryside. But some of the best experiences are found next to the sea. Known affectionately as ‘summer cinemas’, screenings usually start at around 9pm and 11pm, avoiding the heat of the day. Some are shown in Greek, others in English, and prices start from around €7. Good options on the Athens Riviera include Cine Flisvos, Cine Alimos and Cine Votsalakia, all with a days-gone-by feel, and the 1963-opened but recently updated Cine Ria. Expect popcorn, hot dogs, nachos and ice cream to graze on as you take in the big screen and seaside air.
Go shopping at Astir Marina
There’s a new marina in town, and it’s worth spending a few hours at – even if you’re not arriving by yacht. After opening in May 2024, Astir Marina has brought Bagatelle to the riviera, alongside other dining and coffee spots such as Pasticceria Cova – a great place to spend a few hours watching the comings and goings of the yachts. But it’s the shopping that will probably keep you here, with many global names choosing it as their next home in Athens. You’ll find LV, Gucci, Rolex and Loro Piana, to name just a few, alongside Greek brands such as Zeus+Dione and the Athens Riviera-based Karkalis jewellery. If you’re staying (or visiting) Four Seasons Astir Palace it’s easy to get here, the two share a parent company and offer a five-minute golf-buggy shuttle from one to the other.
Lead image: Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens
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