Proving that not all holidays with children need a kids’ club, Citizen Enfants checked into Caravan Agafay by Our Habitas in Morocco for an unforgettable family adventure in the desert.
Just a 45-minute drive from the hustle and bustle of the Marrakech medina is the back-to-nature Caravan Agafay. Set in an ancient desert landscape, this is a place that aims to create space for quiet creativity and connection as well as exciting adventures for families – and all in one of the most spectacular Moroccan settings.
There’s no kids’ club, and no TV, but who needs it when nature is your playground and offers plenty of unique experiences that children of all ages will love?
The Vibe
The mesmerising arid landscape is the star of the show here and, as if not wanting to detract from that, the barely-visible Caravan Agafay blends seamlessly with its surroundings. With a distinctly bohemian vibe, the hotel (which is perhaps better described as a nomadic-style glamping spot) is luxurious, but designed to showcase the natural landscape, not stand out from it.
Sleeping under canvas – in itself, enough to excite children – you’re invited to embrace the nomadic lifestyle, culture and traditions of Morocco’s Amazigh (Berber) people. In the middle of the desert, away from the mod-cons of modern city life, this place – the wild setting, tented accommodation and a deep sense of local culture – is the very definition of escapism.
The Rooms
Caravan Agafay features a selection of Moroccan-style tents and lodges, including Explorer Tents, Dune Lodges, Desert Lodges and Atlas Lodges, each opening up to views of the expansive desert and the rugged Atlas Mountains – quite the thrill to step out into every morning. But don’t be fooled by the somewhat simple appearance – all rooms (tents) are equipped with a king-sized bed (plus mosquito net), and an en-suite bathroom. Decor is muted, soothing, and showcases handcrafted furniture, rugs, pottery, and textiles sourced from the artisans of the Atlas Mountains and the Marrakech souks.
Food + Drink
Olivar, the property’s restaurant, is led by Moroccan-born chef Youssef Erraji Chahid and the menu celebrates the rich and diverse flavours of Moroccan, Amazigh and Arab-Berber cuisine. While there’s no children’s menu, little ones are welcomed with open arms and invited to sample and explore the dishes (without a mention of chips or chicken nuggets – it’s just not that kind of place).
Instead, the well-considered menu comprises of locally inspired dishes such as vegetable couscous, kebab kofta and fish tagine, with a hint of Mexican inspiration too – cheese and fish tacos, shrimp quesadillas (chef Youssef spent some time living in Mexico). And don’t miss the delicious bread rustled up in the huge oven just a few feet from your seat, or the homemade peanut butter and açai bowl as breakfast highlights.
Pre-dinner, stop for a drink at the bar overlooking the desert, a wonderful sunset spot, and head to the fire pit once you’ve eaten – a sociable space to sit and talk with other guests, swapping stories from your day.
The Child’s Play
Who needs a kids’ club when you have the desert on your doorstep? There is no such thing here, but you won’t miss it – there’s plenty to keep young minds engaged with a beautifully curated programme of experiences focused around exploration, discovery of the natural landscape and locally inspired rituals. Not a television to be seen, this is a retreat that helps families switch off and connect with their surroundings – and with each other.
Days here are filled with camel rides, walks in the desert, planting in the garden and visiting animals at the farm. Younger children will love feeding the hotel’s rabbits with home-grown carrots or the chance to hold a baby goat – getting close to nature and having hands-on experiences. Say hello to the peacock who was often found sunbathing nearby. In the warmth of the desert the two infinity pools are a delightful, refreshing way to relax; they’re not heated so expect a cold-water swim.
There’s a spiritual and creative side to this place that is reflected in the programme of activities. Pottery lessons are therapeutic in the serene Garden of Intentions, surrounded by home-grown herbs and vegetables under the dappled sunlight and soft breeze. This is a favourite haven for guests, somewhere you can inhale the lavender, rosemary and sage and pick peas out of the pod to eat on the spot.
The To-Do List
Take part in horseriding, camel trekking, desert survival skills, music experiences or a unique tea ceremony that immerses guests in the rich traditions of Moroccan hospitality. There’s also a wellness centre that offers the likes of yoga classes and treatments using locally sourced products.
Stargazing is one of the most memorable things you can do here. Hosted by an expert guide, look through a high-tech telescope to admire various constellations and planets, followed by stories of the sky. Seeing the moon in such detail, spotting Jupiter and Mars with your naked eye, will, for a moment, remind you of how small you are. It’s a humbling experience that kids will find fascinating.
But don’t feel you have to stay at the camp the entire time, the concierge can help you see the very best of what’s on offer in the area with guided tours. There’s a programme that includes visits to local communities supported by Our Habitas RISE, the brand’s impact initiative to support indigenous communities plus local artisans and farmers by creating jobs and giving back to local environmental and social causes.
This is a place to remind you that travel with children should be about expanding their horizons – and also possibly your own.
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