New Study Reveals The Skincare That Really Works: Is Your Favourite On The List?

Looking for the best skincare ingredients to help you achieve your skin goals without any fuss? This new study makes it easy…

If you find it difficult to know what skincare is actually going to work for you, especially when there seems to be a new product launching every minute, it’s time to trust the science. Luckily, a group of dermatologists has made that simpler than ever before.

The Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology has just published a study conducted by Northwestern Medicine, which saw 80 top dermatologists from 43 institutions whittle down 318 skincare ingredients to identify the most effective for all skin types.

Best of all, they covered all of the most common skin concerns, including wrinkles, acne, dark spots and more, so you can discover the best skincare to slot into your routine. That includes why mineral sunscreen is a go-to for wrinkles and redness, while retinoids are so highly recommended for improving acne and dark spots.

Plus, the study not only points you towards products that can work for you; it also helps you avoid things that probably won’t, streamlining your routine and potentially saving you money. “Using too many products can irritate your skin. It’s about knowing which ingredients are most effective for your specific concerns,” affirms the senior author of the study, Murad Alam, MD.

Find out everything you need to know about the very best skincare ingredients, by searching for your key skin concern below…

For wrinkles

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1. Mineral sunscreen (96.8% recommended)

2. Retinoids (96.8% recommended)

3. Vitamin C (88.7% recommended)

Proof that prevention really is the dermatologist’s cure, mineral sunscreen tops the list for fine lines and wrinkles, matched only by the most scientifically-backed anti-ager: retinoids. UV damage is the number one cause of wrinkles, due to the sun’s damaging effect on our collagen levels, so it makes sense to always protect against it. A nighttime retinoid then further boosts your collagen production by stimulating skin cell turnover, leading to smoother, plumper skin all round. For further protection, you can boost your skincare routine with a Vitamin C serum. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that has the additional benefit of brightening your complexion, and radiant skin always looks younger too.

The routine to try:

For dark spots

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1. Hydroquinone (98.4% recommended)

2. Retinoids (96.8% recommended)

3. Kojic acid (93.6% recommended)

For treating dark spots, hydroquinone is the dermatologists’ top choice, with 98.4% of those surveyed endorsing it for its ability to inhibit melanin production (which can cause uneven pigment patches on your skin). In fact, it is such an effective treatment for hyperpigmentation, you do – unfortunately – need to use it under the guidance of a dermatologist via prescription to avoid any risk of skin bleaching or irritation. For anyone looking for a high-street option, you can (once again) turn to retinoids, as they promote cell turnover to slough off dead, dull skin cells. Or, for the gentlest option, kojic acid offers an alternative that helps brighten even sensitive complexions.

The routine to try:

For acne

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1. Retinoids (96.8% recommended)

2. Benzoyl peroxide (95.2% recommended)

3. Salicylic acid (93.6% recommended)

Three times in a row, retinoids prove themselves as a top-tier skincare ingredient – this time being recommended by almost 97% of dermatologists for breakouts. Again that’s because the vitamin A derivative helps clear blocked pores and reduce inflammation by encouraging cell turnover. Benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid work in a similar way, helping unclog your skin for a fresher face. You do need to be aware that irritation can be a side effect for all of these ingredients though, so you might want to avoid using them all at the same time. For example, a salicylic acid cleanser can be really effective for keeping blemishes at bay, but if breakouts do occur, try switching to a gentler cleanser and then apply your breakout serum or benzoyl peroxide gel to targeted areas.

The routine to try:

For dry skin

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1. Petrolatum (85.5% recommended)

2. Ceramides (82.1% recommended)

3. Hylauronic acid / Urea 79.0% recommended)

Managing dry skin is not just about slapping on lots of hydration. In fact, more importantly, you want to focus on keeping moisture in your skin for longer. After all, drier skin tends to be naturally lower in oils, meaning your skin’s moisture barrier is more likely to be compromised. So, while it isn’t the most ‘sexy’ of ingredients (it is best known as the core ingredient of Vaseline, after all), petrolatum is quite rightly highly-recommended by dermatologists. That’s because it acts like a hydrating plaster on your skin, sealing in moisture. Ceramides work in a similar way and are actually naturally present in your skin barrier so are a great ingredient to ‘top-up’. Trendy hyaluronic acid (which can hold 1000 times its weight in water) and moisturising powerhouse urea almost make the list.

The routine to try:

For redness

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1. Mineral sunscreen (95.2% recommended)

2. Sulfacetamide-Sulfur (82.3% recommended)

3. Niacinamide (72.6% recommended)

When managing skin redness, you want to target both surface-level irritation and underlying inflammation. That means not just reaching for green tinted products that only hide the issue. The best offence is actually defence, so dermatologists suggest always having a mineral sunscreen in your beauty arsenal. This doesn’t just stop facial redness from sunburn, but avoids UV damage’s inflammatory action deeper in your skin too. Then, for when redness really strikes, sulfacetamide-sulfur is widely endorsed for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, making it particularly effective for redness related to acne or rosacea. Prescription-based products such as metronidazole actually ranked third for redness (and if you have chronic redness it can be a highly effective way to go), but for anyone looking for a high-street option, there’s a reason niacinamide is now trending too. It is a gentle yet powerful ingredient that helps calm inflammation, strengthen the skin barrier, and reduce redness over time, leading to long-term results for a calmer complexion.

The routine to try:

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