In Udaipur, Rajasthan’s romantic and quietly opulent lake city, white marble palaces and heritage havelis stand on the shores of Lakes Pichola, Fateh Sagar, and Udai Sagar.
Between the temples and embankments are crowded labyrinthine streets – each a pleasure to get lost in and perfect for pottering. Udaipur, founded by Udai Singh, the sixteenth century Maharana of the Kingdom of Mewar, is an art, architecture and history lover’s paradise: shockingly fabulous monuments stand proud; artisan vendors line the streets; and hand-painted murals of flowers, tigers and elephants twist along each winding turn.
STAY
Chunda Haveli
View this post on Instagram
For a comfortable and luxurious period property in the heart of the city, it doesn’t get much better than the 27-room Chunda Haveli. A six-minute walk from the central City Palace complex, it’s the perfect place for anyone looking to explore Udaipur by foot. The plush rooftop terrace and pool are highlights and, with sweeping views of the City Palace, head here for drinks at sunset, when small, battered kites soar up from the streets, and the marigold sky begins to turn the colour of grenadine.
Taj Lake Palace
View this post on Instagram
For the real royal treatment, book a stay at this floating, eighteenth-century pleasure palace. Built by Maharana Jagat Singh II, this island palace hotel’s regal guests include Queen Elizabeth II, Jacqueline Kennedy and most recently, Dua Lipa. Famously, it was the setting of the 1983 Bond film, Octopussy, too. From the moment you step off your private teak boat onto its jetty, you’ll be assailed by splendour the likes of which most people have never seen. A rose petal shower is strewn over guests from jewelled hands hanging from a high window, there are three-hundred-year-old mango trees, a walled pool, a real throne and symmetrical lily ponds. Even the gold crockery is Versace.
Bujera Fort
View this post on Instagram
Pale pink and quietly palatial, the 14-room Bujera Fort offers guests calm and respite beyond the hubbub of the city. Designed and built from scratch by two Brits, interior designer Richard Hanlan and Trish McFarlane, the Fort has all the airs of an English country house, punctuated by whimsical flourishes in the form of Rajasthani furnishings and antiques. Between the embroidered patchwork parasols, the salvaged doors and hand-carved columns, there is a tranquil Mughal garden with a monochromatic pool at its centre, whose tiled floor is based on a design by Edwin Lutyens.
EAT
Jagat Niwas
View this post on Instagram
With unparalleled views of Lake Pichola and the old city, the terrace at Jagat Niwas is a memorable place to eat. Behind the Māru-Gurjara Jagdish temple, this sixteenth century haveli is so picturesque that it served as a filming location for the 2012-released movie, The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. There’s an extensive menu of delicious Indian, Chinese and European dishes. Book in advance though, tables fill up early.
Jheel’s Ginger Coffee Bar & Bakery
View this post on Instagram
A breezy, no-frills café, this is a great place to stop and catch your breath after exploring the old city’s meandering pathways. Though Jheel’s is located just off the main drag and Gangour Ghat, it feels like a small oasis away from the bustle. Air conditioning offers welcome relief, while the menu serves simple dishes – a mix of light, western-style fare including pizzas, sandwiches and homemade cakes.
Ambrai
View this post on Instagram
Set within the gardens of heritage hotel Amet Haveli, this open-air restaurant sits right on the edge of Lake Pichola, with uninterrupted views of Udaipur’s most iconic landmarks. You can see the glimmering City Palace and Lake Palace floating in the near distance, and the island palace of Jag Mandir is within your eyeline too. The patio, strung with lanterns and softly lit after dusk, has a dreamy and romantic feel, but it would be equally suited to a family meal, or larger group. Try to time your meal with sunset for spectacular views over the lake.
What To Do
City Palace and Crystal Gallery
View this post on Instagram
Rising eight storeys high along the shore is the vast City Palace. Built over four centuries by 23 generations of Mewar rulers, it is Rajasthan’s largest palace, with a façade that’s 244 metres long, and 30.4 metres high. Outside, its balconies, cupolas and turrets loom romantically over the water, while inside it is all delicate mirror and marble work, murals, intricate silver and inlaid coloured glass and precious stones. The arched colonnades and flowering courtyard of the Baadi Mahal are a must-see, as is the mind-blowing Crystal Gallery, which houses one of the Maharana’s cut crystal collections. Spotless crystal chairs, sofas and tables glitter alongside four-poster beds. Arrive early to explore this warren of a palace in relative peace.
Shopping
View this post on Instagram
Shopping in Udaipur feels like discovering treasure. In keeping with the city’s history as a home for artisans and craftsmen, it offers seemingly endless hoards of quality clothes, paintings and antiques. For beautiful Rajasthani wood-block prints visit Amber or Anokhi, two boutiques whose gorgeous dresses, quilted jackets and nightwear come in so many prints they’ll fill your suitcase up fast. For miniature paintings (which the city is renowned for), you’ll be hard-pressed to find better than those by Mahesh at Paradise Arts. Divya Arts is the place for custom resin and mother-of-pearl inlay, and Ganesh Emporium provides room after room of unbelievable vintage textiles, richly patterned furniture and local antiques.
Jagmandir Island
View this post on Instagram
With flower-filled gardens of frangipani, bougainvillea, palm trees and bushes of moss rose, Jagmandir Island provides two idyllic excursions in one. Boats bringing you here from the City Palace jetty will take the long and scenic route around the lake, which is at its loveliest in the morning, with enveloping swathes of blue. The island itself, which is small, was built in 1620 as a summer palace. Flanked by enormous white stone elephants, its fountains and criss-crossed walkways now provide the ideal spot for an incredibly dreamlike promenade.
Lead image: Udaipur City Palace from Lake Pichola. Udaipur, Rajasthan
We may earn a commission if you buy something from any affiliate links on our site.
Any Questions or Tips to add?