Imagine everything you think you know about Santorini. The caldera probably features, but we’re willing to bet the image you conjure up also includes crowded streets, and probably quite a lot of commercialisation too.
Now, forget them all. Welcome to Vedema, a Luxury Collection Resort in Santorini.
At this resort, rather than chaotic crowds, you’ll find a cooler, calmer and more collected group of visitors eager to experience the authentic side of the island.
Rather than commercialisation, you’ll stay in a hotel designed to encourage downtime, whether that’s a morning spent reading by the pool or an afternoon wandering the local village – the kind of place where shops might be open for business, or might have shut for the day, depending entirely on the mood of the owner.
And, although we love Santorini’s caldera views, at Vedema you’ll experience what it’s like to stay in an altogether more authentic version of Santorini – the hotel design reflects that of a traditional village and it’s located within one too: the village of Megalachori, a place where small, decades-old tavernas still rule the roost.
This is Santorini as it once was, a place where time and tradition remain central to everyday life.
The Vibe
There’s one room on this property that you won’t be able to book. Located near the hotel’s spa, traditional (and very Greek) white-lace curtains are draped across the windows. The humble space belongs to the hotel owner’s grandmother. Opposite it, stone steps lead right into the heart of village streets that are home to other born-and-bred Santorinians (known locally as Therans).
And this sums up Vedema Resort, a family-owned and run property for 32 years, that has been built both within a local village, and designed to feel like one. The inspiration is evident seconds after checking in, as you begin the walk from reception-to-room following small cobbled alleyways, passing a 400-year-old wine cellar, ducking past olive trees and underneath trailing bougainvillaea.
The Suites
Rather than rooms, accommodation here is described as suites or villas. And rightly so; each has a room plus living area, individual access and outdoor space.
As the hotel has been developed over the last three decades, rooms and suites differ – not only in facilities but also in decor and vibe. Some feel modern and contemporary, others feel more lived in and, at the same time, more traditional. Rather than haphazard, this mingling of moments only adds to the authenticity of the place – after all, which village doesn’t offer a range of buildings in differing sizes, decoration and feel? It’s worth checking out a few of the options before deciding which best suits your needs.
We stayed in an Aegean Suite, which was steps from the hotel’s main swimming pool (there are two pools here), came with a bedroom and living space, and, with wooden shuttered windows and a quiet terrace overlooking centuries-old vineyards, felt every bit like stepping into a local’s life for a few days – with added room service on call, plus a hot tub, freshly laundered towels and snacks delivered daily as a bonus.
Opt for a villa or the Nafsika Estate and you’ll have a kitchen and a private pool too.
The Food + Drink
I don’t say this lightly: dinner at the hotel’s main restaurant, Alati, is one of the best meals I’ve had in Santorini. Set atop (best for summer evenings) or within (better for cooler times of the year) a stone-walled dining room, it’s designed as an extension to – and serves glasses from – the hotel’s 400-year-old wine cellar. Dish after dish reflects the ethos of the hotel, each a fusion of time-old, authentic Greek cuisine but served with modern flair, like the hortopita: in Greek ‘horta’ means wild greens and ‘pita’ reflects a flatbread – this one featured seasonal greens with feta, fennel, spinach cream, sesame and spices. Or the astakomakaronada (‘astako’ means lobster, ‘makaronada’ means pasta): lobster with home-made pasta, bottarga, marjoram and a citrus confit. On some evenings the restaurant serves dinner with a side of live music, and it’s worth checking when. Dining under the stars, to the soulful voice of Flora Cherouveim, whose music ranges from Greek classics to Mamma-Mia favourites, really cemented the evening as one to remember.
Elsewhere in the hotel, poolside dining takes precedence. An à la carte breakfast is served beside one of the hotel’s two swimming pools and, at the other, pizza, risotto and pasta take centre stage at the casual-chic Italian restaurant, Trataro. The poolside snack menu is also worth digging into – not least for the creative cocktails. A personal favourite was the Pangalactic Gargle Blaster (yes, really) served icy cold and mixed with Tito’s vodka, strawberries, basil and pepper.
The Little Extras
Nothing here is really a little extra, everything is part of a well thought out, curated and executed stay. Staff go the extra mile, like the poolside attendant who walked me every step of the way to the spa when I was lost in the sometimes village-like maze. Or the concierge team who somehow managed to find us a car transfer during the busiest time of a Santorini evening (when all Uber drivers kept cancelling).
The To-Do List
First and foremost, explore the village you’re staying in – Vedema Resort is at the heart of Megalachori and the two merge almost inconspicuously. From the hotel’s entrance we watched local families gather for a Christening at the blue-domed church opposite. Turn left, then right, and within seconds you’re strolling streets dotted with family-run tavernas.
If you’ve dined at the hotel’s restaurant, Alati, book a wine-tasting experience at its 400-year-old wine cellar, Canava. Santorini is known to produce some of the best wines in Greece, but to sit in this decades-old cellar lit only by candlelight is to really experience the island’s age-old connection with vines. Experiences last one hour and showcase both Greek and Santorinian wines. Paired with cheese, fruit, nuts and cacao nibs, your sommelier will take you through the aromas, flavours and acidity of each glass.
Santorini isn’t known for its beaches, yet on the east of the island you’ll find plenty. The good news? They’re not crowded. You could turn up with a towel and SPF to find a spot on the sand, but the smarter way to do it is to ask the concierge team at Vedema if their sister hotel, Istoria, has any space on their daybeds lining black-sand Perivolos Beach. If they do, they’ll arrange transfers to and from it for the day (bring beach shoes, the black volcanic sand is scorching). Other island experiences the hotel can organise include horse-riding through Byzantine monuments and deserted villages, hiking the clifftops of Imerovigli and nearby Pyrgos, or (more family-friendly) cooking classes and Greek language lessons.
There’s even helicopter rides to neighbouring islands with hoper, a new inter-Greek island service which sounds expensive but allows you to buy a (more affordable) ticket on a chopper, rather than needing to hire the entire thing. Flights leave Santorini daily throughout summer, heading to Greek islands including Folegandros, Sifnos, Milos and beyond and are worth it for the impressive caldera views alone. If I could recommend one day trip though, make it Folegandros. With a flight time of around 15 minutes each way you’ll arrive in time for lunch and can explore the main town before visiting the beach for a few hours. This is Greek summer, not just done right but done with perfection.
FAQs about Santorini
How do you get to Santorini?
You can get to Santorini by air or sea. Flights take approximately 45 minutes from Athens International Airport, and ferries take between 5 and 9 hours, with most departing from Piraeus Port.
When is the best time to visit Santorini?
The best time to visit Santorini is during shoulder season – May, June, September and October. During these months there are less crowds but the weather is still warm (between 20°C to 28°C). July and August are the most popular months to visit.
How do you get around Santorini?
There is a bus network in Santorini, and Uber also operates here. But the best option to get around Santorini is to hire a car or an ATV. Small cars are the best option to navigate narrow village roads.
Where is Megalochori in Santorini?
Megalachori is towards the south of the island, about 4 miles (15 minutes by car) south of Fira, the island’s capital.
What should I pack for Santorini?
These are the 16 items you need to pack for Santorini, according to Citizen Femme’s fashion features director. They include linen shorts, printed trousers, day-to-night dresses and a hat.
We may earn a commission if you buy something from any affiliate links on our site.
Any Questions or Tips to add?