Maria Lemos’ deep relationship with the Greek island of Patmos began in childhood.
The founder of Rainbowwave Showroom and fashion concept store Mouki Mou, she was born in London to Greek parents, and grew up in between Athens and the British capital. Lemos had visited Patmos, a serene, spiritual oasis in the Aegean, when she was young, but it was only as an adult that her love for it developed in earnest. She and her husband Gregoris Kambouroglou were used to spending summers in Mykonos, but after deciding it was no longer the bohemian haven that it once was, they began visiting Patmos in 2008.
“What we loved as a family was the ease of living, the beauty of the island and its people,” she tells us. “I loved the landscape, the size of the island, which is neither too big nor too small. I fell for the capital, Chora, and the sense of tradition and religion intertwined with daily life, but also the smaller villages of Skala and Kambos. In fact, we loved creating a memory bank of days with family and friends year after year.”
Maria Lemos in Patmos by Yolanda Edwards
The couple decided to return every summer, and in 2021, they bought a three-bedroom guesthouse built in 1597, named after its original owner and architect, Parthenios Pagostas. Since its opening in 2022, Chora-based Pagostas has become popular with artists, designers and creatives who want to escape the crowds of some of the better-known Greek islands. Patmos’ remote location, seven hours ferry ride from Athens, is of course part of its appeal; there is joy in travelling down the path less trodden. It has been nicknamed Greece’s ‘holy island’ on account of its spiritual history: Patmos centres around its famous monastery, where Saint John is thought to have penned the Book of Revelation. When Lemos and her husband began renovating Pagostas, they knew it had to be done sensitively in order to preserve its original Byzantine charm.
A bedroom at Pagostas
Inside Pagostas
“What makes it unique is the building itself, one of the oldest and most important in Chora,” she says. “It had been the guesthouse of the monastery for centuries. Our work was to restore its beauty, uncover the simplicity and unique structure of the space and bring it back to life as a guesthouse open to all. We worked with Leda Athanasopoulou of Studio Pale, and Helli Pangalou on the landscaping of the small garden, and the incredible builders and carpenters of the island.”
Here, she shares her insider guide to Patmos, from the beaches only locals know about to her favourite family-run restaurant and the ultimate place to watch the sunset.
What makes Patmos so special?
Everyone has a favourite Greek island. For me, Patmos is unique because living in Chora makes you go back in time and live a simpler life, inside a Byzantine citadel where the monastery reigns. It might sound cliché, but there is a serenity in Patmos that is unlike any other island, and the minute I step off the ferry, I feel a sense of inner calm.
The best time of year to visit is…
Pagostas is open all year round, but my favourite time of year to be on the island is autumn, and in particular October because the light is incredible. Spring is unparalleled too, and winter has its charm if one wants silence, time to reflect, and to be more connected to Chora than beaches.
The Monastery of Saint John in Patmos by Robert Koorenny
How long should we stay to see it properly?
As the journey to Patmos is long, a week is what one needs to get a real feel of the island. Some people stay for a month, and most return.
Essential items to pack…
A swimsuit, hat and sunglasses in the summer. You’ll need good shoes for walking, and also a scarf and jumper for chilly evenings – even in August.
Our first pitstop should be…
The Monastery of Saint John the Theologian, the Holy Cave of the Apocalypse (where Saint John is said to have received his visions that he recorded in the Book of Revelation), and a walk around Chora.
Are there any must-see culture spots?
Apart from the above, the two nunneries, Zoodochos Pigi and Evangelismos.
How would you describe the two towns Chora and Skala? How are they different?
Chora is a step back in time with only about 50 permanent residents, while Skala is a modern harbour town where most of the island’s people live, the others in the village of Kambos.
What should we do in each?
In Chora, it’s essential to wander around, early morning or early evening in summer, and all day in the off-season, and get lost in the ancient alleys of the citadel, trying to understand its architecture and history. We have a great guide who will take guests around Chora and explain the many layers of history.
Which villages should we visit?
There aren’t many villages to visit. Other than Skala, the only village is Kambos, which is great for an ouzo in the square opposite the church or a coffee in the afternoon.
Which are your favourite beaches and why?
There are many beaches, which you choose based on how the wind blows. A personal favourite is Myrsini, in the north, which is empty even in August. We only go when there’s no wind, and even then, the sea has a swell. It’s at the end of a beautiful valley where 200 goats graze. I also love Psili Ammos, for the finest sandy beach of the island and a beautiful taverna that is open from May to October.
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What would be your dream itinerary?
Any dream itinerary depends on the season, and the weather. In summer, days on the boat are well worth it, but I also recommend exploring the island from north to south. Start with Chora and then move north, to the beautiful beaches in this sequence; Agriolivadi, Kambos, Vagia, Didymes, Livadi Geranou. On the west, head to Livadi, Kalogiron and Lefkes, all breathtaking bays and beaches. Meloi is a beautiful cove near Skala, with a donkey sanctuary of the Aga Khan. In the south east, Petra is one of my favourite places for a swim; it’s a unique setting where you can see Chora while swimming. There are also many churches that are worth visiting and particularly the tiny one in the valley of Sykamia between Chora and Petra.
Photographed by Christine Ellsay
Should we hire a car? Or can we use public transport?
A car is very useful in Patmos, or a scooter. There are also 12 taxis on the island, who are always on hand! Buses are limited.
Which is your favourite restaurant in Patmos and why?
My favourite restaurant in Patmos is Pantheon. Family-run, small, open all year round, it’s simple and honest, as Greek food should be.
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Are there any experiences we should definitely do?
Walking the paths of Patmos is a unique experience that I strongly recommend, any time of the year except the very hot months of summer. These ancient paths really connect you with the land itself.
The one place only locals know about…
Myrsini beach, or Kambi in the north.
For the best views head to…
Profitis Ilias, a small chapel which is located in the south-western part of Patmos, on top of a hill, about 270 meters above sea level.
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Where do the locals go to watch the sunset?
A beautiful sandy beach called Lefkes, or the bay of Hohlakas near Skala.
Where should we go for drinks?
Our terrace at Pagostas.
The Pagostas terrace
The drink to order at the bar…
I’m keen on ouzo.
Patmos is known for its serenity, but is there anywhere we should go later into the evening?
Nightlife in Chora centres around the square, and continues in Skala at a bar and club called Kasbah.
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If we bring one keepsake home with us, what should it be, and where do we buy it?
Something gold from Midas, an intimate jewellery store in Skala.
In one word Patmos is…
A dream.
FAQs about Patmos:
How do you get to Patmos?
There is no airport on Patmos, so the most practical way to reach the island is via boat from Athens’ Piraeus Port, which takes seven hours with Blue Star Ferries. Boats leave from Gate E1 in Piraeus port daily. Samos Island International Airport, Kos Island International Airport or Leros island domestic airport are slightly closer than Athens, but with less regular ferry offerings.
How do you travel around Patmos?
Either hire a car or a scooter, as buses are infrequent. There are plenty of options on patmos-island.com.
What is the accommodation like?
Part of Patmos’ charm is that it isn’t built up; you won’t find sprawling resorts here. Chora, is a protected UNESCO site, and other areas have become Natura preservation zones, with strict conservation rules. The biggest, most traditional hotel is Patmos Aktis, with 56 rooms and all the basic amenities of a luxury resort and spa. Consider more intimate options, such as Lemos’ soulful Pagostas in Chora, or Patmos Heritage, a collection of historic villas.
Lead image: Pagostas
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Any Questions or Tips to add?