Spanning over 700 kilometres of the East China Sea, Okinawa’s islands are dubbed the ‘Hawaii of Japan’ for a reason. Known as the Ryūkyū Shotō, these 160 islands come in all shapes and sizes: small and large, inhabited and uninhabited.
At the heart of this archipelago is subtropical Okinawa Island. With temperatures ranging from 32°C (summer) to 18°C (winter), Okinawa has a laid-back atmosphere, setting it apart from mainland Japan. Here, crystal-clear seas teem with vibrant coral reefs and marine life, and are met by pristine beaches, lush greenery, and excellent diving and snorkelling.
A quick flight from Japan’s major cities (two hours from Osaka, two-and-a-half from Tokyo), Okinawa has long been the escape of choice for domestic tourists, yet tends to remain under-the-radar with many international travellers. This is why you should add it to your Japan travel list.
STAY
Halekulani
Opened in 2019, Halekulani Okinawa mirrors its Hawaiian namesake, offering a sprawling yet intimate resort experience. Guests can enjoy multiple dining options, five swimming pools, and brightly appointed rooms with sea-facing balconies, blending luxury with views. There’s also a private beach and an excellent spa offering massages and a traditional onsen hot bath. New this year includes the Blue Zones Retreat from 19-25 October. The only retreat of its kind in Japan, it offers curated cultural and wellness experiences, from a traditional tea ceremony and Ryukyu cooking classes using local ingredients, to a tour of the historic Nakijin Castle Ruins and an exclusive visit to a UNESCO-recognized awamori distillery. The pick of the dining options has to be the intimate Japanese restaurant, Aomi, which serves fresh sushi and traditional dishes using local Okinawa produce. The seasonal afternoon tea offering is also worth trying, enjoyed with gorgeous views over the sea.
HOSHINOYA Okinawa
HOSHINOYA Okinawa has an incredible setting on a quiet stretch of rocky coast near Yomitan village. Spread out along the coastline, 100 modern guest villas – jutting right up to the sea in many instances – come with views that look out over the bright coral-rich waters. Inside, the villas offer a large living area, a sunken-floor traditional dining table, kitchen facilities, large futon-style beds and uninterrupted views of the sea. At the back, the villas are connected by landscaped gardens surrounded by a long concrete wall modelled on traditional Japanese fortresses – Gusuku castles – that used to be dotted all over the island. Facilities include a heated infinity pool, an activity studio with regular events such as karate demonstrations, and a restaurant serving unique tasting menus that take inspiration from both Okinawa and Sicily.
Ritz Carlton Okinawa
A mixture of warm Okinawan hospitality, Ritz-Carlton-level attention to detail and sweeping vistas that create a luxury beach escape, this oasis of calm features its own spa, three restaurants, a bar and The Lobby Lounge with spectacular views of an 18-hole championship golf course next door. Everywhere you go, there is a sense of calm; it’s rare to hear anything other than the sounds of nature and smooth music playing in the hallways. The main floors also have glass walls that open up to let nature in – one of which is a popular Instagram spot, thanks to its view through the building towards the bay.
EAT + DRINK
Okinawa is crowned as one of the world’s ‘Blue Zones’ owing to the high proportion of residents living healthily until very old age (often over 100). This is in part attributed to the local diet, which is largely based on vegetables, fruit, and fish.
Banta Café
For beach-side dining, there’s perhaps no better place than Banta Café. Perched on a rocky cliff, the cafe provides stunning panoramic views of the East China Sea alongside a menu featuring Okinawan-inspired dishes with an international twist – mango shrimp and citrus tankan chicken wings meet pizza toast and hot dogs – every dish crafted from the freshest local ingredients.
Shiroux
Shiroux, which means “white” in the Okinawan language, is led by the creative-culinary eye of chef Hiroyasu Kawate, who previously earned two Michelin stars at Florilège in Tokyo. Here, a seasonal menu showcases the food culture of the Okinawan islands throughout its 10-course chef’s Signature Dinner dishes (there is no à la carte option, so you’re in it for the long-haul) like the Yanbaru pork, Motobo beef tacos and Okinawan tofu served with truffle, best ordered alongside the wine, cocktail or mocktail pairing.
Eibun
The meal to order at Okinawa Soba Eibun is an original Okinawa soba noodle dish. A new take on an old classic, the team here use the traditional Okinawan soba method – slow-simmered pork bones set over low heat for eight hours – before combining it with an ichiban dashi to create a gentle broth. But perhaps the best thing is the variety of toppings you can choose to adapt the dish; maybe you’ll opt for sanmainiku (pork belly) with spicy miso, or soki (pork ribs) with red pickled ginger. Maybe you’ll add yuzu pepper or Okinawa seaweed. Our advice? Try a mixture of them all, and make changes throughout your meal.
The To Do List
Scenic Drives
Most Okinawa trips will begin at Naha, the capital of the main island. It’s a good idea to hire a car here as it’s the best way to explore and escape the more built-up areas in the south. Driving is very easy as the roads are calm and cars are right-hand drive, the same as in the UK. As well as being best on a practical level, driving around Okinawa is a pleasure, particularly in the far north where the road hugs the scenic coastline, passing through small villages, reaching remote, deserted beaches.
Hiking in Yanbaru National Park
Much of the northern half of Okinawa Island is dominated by Yanbaru National Park, which has great hiking trails to explore. Some involve steep and strenuous mountain climbs, but there are gentler trails too, such as the Hiji Falls route, which takes you along a river up to a waterfall, and the Kunigami Forest Park loop that takes you through the lush greenery teeming with birds.
Head to the Beach
Okinawa has many beautiful-looking beaches but be warned that swimming can be tricky at many of them during low tide; the water is shallow and the likelihood of scraping your skin on sharp coral is high. One of the better spots for swimming is Mission Beach, located about halfway up the west coast. Further up the coastline, there’s Sesoko Beach on Sesoko Island (linked to the main island by a road bridge) which is much bigger and features a long stretch of white sand. To really get away from it all, head to Oku Beach in the far north of the island, which has stunning scenery and hardly any visitors.
Snorkelling, Diving and Whale Watching
The coral reefs and clear waters that surround many of Okinawa’s islands make it a top spot for snorkelling and diving. Ishigaki is a particularly good island to visit for diving but there are organised day tours all over the region that will take you to remote spots where you might be able to spot manta rays, turtles, hammerhead sharks, and lots of colourful tropical fish. Whale-watching trips are also available between January and March when humpback whales are migrating.
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