Hugging Australia’s north-east coast lies Cairns, a languid paradise and traditional stepping off point for thrills on the Great Barrier Reef and the rainforest of Tropical North Queensland.
On a trip to Cairns, you could be diving in the warm waters of the Coral Sea amid tropical fish and foraging for native ingredients in the Daintree Rainforest one day, and lunching on palm-shaded beachfront decks and sipping cocktails the next. A long-time hangout for backpackers and families, in recent years its seen an influx of wealthy travellers and, in turn, a flurry of high-end developments and openings.
STAY
Crystalbrook Riley
This light, bright, white and airy family-friendly hotel at the northern end of Cairns esplanade makes for a stylish and peaceful base for your time in the city. It’s one of three five-star Crystalbrook Collection hotels in the area and they’re all known for their authentic atmosphere and sustainable practices (among their initiatives are no single-use plastics, paper-free check-in, and paper key cards). With a swimming lagoon-style pool, relaxed common spaces and two restaurants, it’s designed for unwinding and enjoying life in the slow lane.
Photo credit: Tourism Tropical North Queensland
Spacious rooms set within a distinctive curved glass tower are simply decorated in white and blue tones, have huge bathrooms, the comfiest of king beds, and sliding doors. Nab one overlooking the Esplanade if you can – if only to see the morning mist hanging magically over the distant Atherton Tablelands. In-room touches include pretty knee-length tie-dye robes and little sisal bags of local chocolates at turndown. As evening falls, start with drinks at rooftop bar Rocco, before dinner at one of two options: Paper Crane for Asian plates or the funky Calypso Club, for seafood and rum cocktails.
EAT + DRINK
Little Sister
Credit to Little Sister, Cairns
Huge portions of Asian street food are mainstays of this fun and funky restaurant with a youthful vibe on the Esplanade. A contemporary décor of pastel pinks and brass accents along with a clubby playlist make it a good choice for an upbeat night with friends over creative cocktails. Most dishes are crowd pleasers and come in a variety of sizes from snacks to sharing plates. Any choice is a winner, but stand outs include Korean fried chicken with sweet soy, sesame, chilli, fried shallots, greens and the chilli salt fries.
Nunu
A visit to this chilled-out, plant-filled food paradise takes you to Palm Cove, a resort 25 kilometres north of Cairns with glamorous, laid-back vibe. Like its location, it’s casual but one for a special-occasion splurge. Its set within an airy pavilion cooled by ceiling fans, that feels like you’re in Bali. Every table is a winner, but those at the back face the terrace and sandy Palm Cove beach, dotted with towering palm trees. Artful dishes made with local ingredients are beautifully presented on handmade ceramic plates. Everything is as delicious as it sounds: sticky bush creek beef and crispies; warmed coriole olives; passionfruit and chilli margarita. If choosing is tricky go for one of the seven-course tasting menus.
Fresh Australian ingredients like kingfish, including many from the bush like Davidson’s plums, take centre stage at this welcoming hotspot on the harbour complete with a casual terrace and chic inside dining room. Menus are adventurous and most dishes are a fusion of Australian and Japanese tastes. Think: duck breast with tempura sushi, shiitake, water chestnut, edamame and Davidson plus and ginger glaze. For a taste of Oz, start with some wattle seed damper bread, with native dukka and olive oil, followed by the Australian antipasto: lemon aspen and beetroot gravlax; emu wanton with Davidson plum jam, wild spice kangaroo with Rosella relish, smoked crocodile with finger lime. Leave room for the to-die-for lemon myrtle and macadamia meringue for dessert. Wine-wise, the list is extensive with plenty of Aussie bottles on offer.
What To Do
Spend time with the Mundraby sisters
This pioneering indigenous sisterhood share a slice of their culture and country on unique immersive half-day eco tours. Butterflies flutter past as you follow them around their ancestral homeland: the Trinity Inlet east of Cairns, where the Mandingalbay Yidinji people have been living among the Wet Tropics World Heritage rainforest for thousands of years. Tours include a traditional welcoming ceremony, an atmospheric boat ride through ancient mangrove swamps, a walk around the bush to learn about the native flora and fauna, and a feast of native food.
Immerse yourself in the rainforest
Two hours north of Cairns is the majestic Daintree Rainforest; the oldest tropical rainforest in the world, believed to date back around 180 million years. Here, saltwater crocodiles, multi-coloured butterflies and an array of tropical birds inhabit the ancient landscape, with waterfalls, creeks and swimming holes hidden among the trees. Full-day tours include stops at the dramatic Mossman Gorge with its treetop walk and the Daintree Ice Cream Company specialising in exotic fruit flavours made with ingredients grown in the surrounding orchard, some more unusual than others and including coconut and vanilla, black sapote, and durian.
Go boutique shopping
Shopping is low-key in Cairns. For a fun experience, you’ll find a treasure trove of hip, eclectic independent shops along Oceana Walk, an arcade hidden off Grafton Street. Everything from designer fashion at Gypsett and homewares at Eggplant + Poppy to holiday reads at Pearls Books n Music is for sale. Consider spending most of your time and money at Bush Medijina, an indigenous female-owned Australian brand of skincare handmade with native botanicals that ploughs profits back to communities to empower and educate women. The small, simple shop is well stocked with tempting products like weeping tea tree hair oil and broad leaf wattle cleansing clay masks, as well as T-shirts and totes, all of which make excellent souvenirs.
For more Cairns and Tropical North Queensland travel tips, visit Cairns Great Barrier Reef and Tropical North Queensland websites.
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