Italy is home to countless beauty spots. But Panicale, a medieval borgo west of Perugia, is officially recognised as one of the country’s most beautiful towns.
The reason becomes abundantly clear as you make the ascent through Umbrian hills carpeted in olive groves and arrive in the walled old town, full of historic cobbled streets all of which somehow lead to a central square.
This is the kind of Italy visitors dream about.
There’s a 16th-century church with a bell tower that marks the hours that slip languidly by. There’s a handful of authentic restaurants and a couple of bars where espressos give way imperceptibly to spritzes. There’s a fountain frequented by welcoming locals and a few shops selling handmade ceramics, cigarettes and merchandise inspired by the cinghiale (wild boar) that roam this scenic land.
And right in the centre of this Luca Guadagnino fantasy of a town centre is Rastrello, a boutique hotel named after the Italian for ‘rake’ (the tool central to the olive harvest that happens here every autumn). Its whispered charms and on-point design make it the perfect match for this improbably beautiful destination.
The Vibe
Rastrello was opened by Christiane Wassmann, who first visited Umbria when her parents moved to the region in 1995. In 2020, Wassmann unveiled the refurbished nine original rooms within this 14th-century house. This year, a further seven have opened in a neighbouring house, the two spaces joined by a terrace with panoramic views of nearby Lake Tresimeno and a small but perfectly chilled plunge pool. Inside, arched stone staircases, exposed brick walls and restored beams are enhanced with light-touch interiors – neutral linen sofas, designer coffee table books, structural light fixtures and sculptures by local artists.
Throughout, there’s a focus on community; as many features as possible have been sourced from nearby suppliers and artisans, and the friendly staff are all locals. It’s clear that simple, high-quality pleasures are key here, from crisp Umbrian sparkling wine and Perugian beer from the honesty bar to olive oil and seasonal produce from Rastrello’s nearby farm. In short, it’s almost everything you could want from a boutique hotel – and there’s more on the horizon, with a nearby development featuring a pool and ‘clubhouse’ (which will also offer membership to locals) in the works. Watch this space.
The Rooms
Bedrooms continue the modern farmhouse mood set in the shared areas – each thoughtfully appointed without intruding on the historic building that houses it, serving as an apt metaphor for Rastrello as a whole. Four-poster beds, marble side tables and vast linen-upholstered sofas provide ample comfort without detracting from exposed heritage masonry, hardwood floors and expertly conserved rafters. Some rooms have balconies or larger terraces but all have commanding views of the tumbling hills, valleys and lake beyond.
The Food + Drink
The breakfast offering is modest but more than adequate – it’s worth foregoing the eggs and opting for something decidedly more continental in the form of fresh buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes and Umbrian charcuterie. If that doesn’t float your boat, there’s also good granola, yoghurt and local honey. The only thing that leaves room for improvement is the machine coffee – there’s undeniably better to be had in any of the cafes surrounding Panicale’s historic square.
If the hotel’s restaurant, Cucina & Giardino, feels more modern than you were expecting, there’s very good reason for that. The aim is to deliver something distinct from the traditional Umbrian restaurants in town and it does so with aplomb, thanks to a focus on farm-to-table cooking. Sunday brunch has proved a hit with locals, with an Umbrian take on huevos rancheros served with piadina and a club sandwich featuring porchetta and homemade mayonnaise.
As evening arrives, inventive versions of classic dishes – like a parmigiana made with Cannara red onions grown on Rastrello’s farm, cannelloni filled with tomato fondue, and perch caught on Lake Tresimeno – are served alongside devilishly good cocktails including a spritz infused with wild foraged fennel leaf.
The Little Extras
In place of mini bars, Rastrello has an honesty bar in each of its two buildings. They’re intended to foster a sense of community and, as the hotel’s GM Chiara Verdacchi adds, “a chance to get inspired for your next day trip by overhearing where fellow guests have been that day”. At aperitivo hour, a selection of snacks is also offered. Back in the rooms, a winning extra – for those with a suitcase full of crumpled linen at least – is a handheld steamer. It’s also worth noting that high housekeeping standards elevate the accommodation in this small boutique hotel to that of much larger, five-star properties.
A recent addition is the subterranean spa in the hotel’s second building. In this soothing spot, lovely local therapists work magic with natural ingredients, like an oil infused with homegrown lavender, sea salt, honey and Rastrello’s own olive oil. There’s also a sauna that guests can book and, hidden away upstairs, another wellness space devoted to sound healing and meditation.
The To-Do List
One of the best things about Rastrello is that all of Panicale’s charming spots and sights are steps away. You can explore various churches, the tiny but grand theatre, or simply drink in the views. The best restaurant in town and a must for any visitor is Lillo Tatini, a family-run spot with service so warm you feel like a regular and dishes that make heavenly use of seasonal local ingredients like freshwater fish, truffles, wild boar and slow-cooked pork.
Many guests choose to take day trips to nearby towns including Perugia and Assisi, so it’s worth considering renting a car (although Rastrello will happily arrange transfers). The hotel also offers activities and trips; a highlight is a trip to their nearby farm and olive grove followed by an olive oil tasting that will make you recognise this humble ingredient for the liquid gold it really is.
All image credit: Rastrello
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