As the country celebrates its New Year, Citizen Femme’s managing editor shares her guide to Ethiopia.
Known as Enkutatash, Ethiopia celebrates new year today, the 11 September. This time of year also signals the end of the rainy season in the country, and is a time for communities to come together.
Here, Katie Silcox takes us to the peaks of the Simien Mountains, the buzzy capital city Addis Ababa, the historic town of Harar in the east, the camel market of Babile, and the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela.
Including things to do plus where to stay, eat and shop, this is the CF guide to exploring Ethiopia.
Location: Lalibela
I knew very little about Ethiopia before visiting, but one thing I had heard of was the ancient rock-hewn churches of Lalibela. I’d read about Lalibela in my favourite travel magazines, I’d gazed at photos of the churches dug into the earth, I’d even been to Ethiopian restaurants in London and Dubai named after this famous site – but nothing could have prepared me for actually visiting it.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1978 – yes, the churches are impressive to look at (and photograph), but what really drew me in was the feeling: the 11 rock-hewn churches were chiselled into the ground by hand almost 1,000 years ago, and I felt the significance of them during my misty early-morning visit. A millennia of worship can have that effect. The churches of Lalibela are still a living, breathing place of devotion, with the soulful sounds of traditional bands echoing around them as devotees sing at their base, while priests sit inside guarding them, and pilgrims, who have travelled for miles, come to pray.
I stayed at Maribela Hotel, a seven-minute drive away from the churches. I arranged an early morning pick up to visit the ancient site, and ended my day with a dinner of injera, shiro and daro wat at Ben Abeba (which is also a lodge and another wonderful place to stay in Lalibela, and can be booked via the locally run Explore Lalibela Tours).
Katie Silcox on the balcony of a room at Maribla Hotel
Location: Simien National Park
My day in the Simien Mountains National Park (another UNESCO World Heritage Site) started with the best breakfast view I’ve ever had – and very likely the best I ever will. It was Christmas Day for me (but not for Ethiopians who celebrate on the 7 January) and my friend and I woke up at Limalimo Lodge, located 10,000 feet high in the mountain range. We’d booked a private Champagne breakfast overlooking the sky-high peaks.
A Christmas Day breakfast at Limalimo Lodge, above the mountains of Simien National Park
The mountain range is located in the Amhara region of Ethiopia, and home to the country’s highest peak: Ras Dashen at almost 15,000 foot. After breakfast, we joined a hike through the mountains led by our guide – one of the only female guides in the region. We wandered for hours, passing farmers singing to their crops for healthy growth, but mainly just taking in the stretching and stunning views.
Katie Silcox overlooking the mountain range in Simien National Park, Ethiopia
Later that day we hop into a 4×4, saxophone songs by Feleke Hailu and string-bowed masinko music by Setegn Atanaw on full blast. We’re in search of the Gelada, a baboon that is native to the Simiens, in fact, this is the only place in the world that it lives. I’m told the Gelada is “usually quite friendly”. Hours pass, no Gelada. Until we turn a corner and stumble upon a 40-strong troop of them – dominant males surrounded by their harem. Cautiously exiting the car, I approach them – praying that the friendly description I’ve been given is true. “Friendly” might not be quite the right term, but they are more or less disinterested in my presence, allowing me up close to admire (and take photos) of them.
Two of a 40-strong Gelada monkey troop in Ethiopia’s Simien Montains
Location: Addis Ababa
Ethiopia is widely considered the birthplace of coffee. As the story goes, it was discovered when a 9th-century goat herder named Kaldi noticed his livestock gained energy and slept less after eating the berries from a certain shrub. True or urban legend, who knows, but one thing I did know when landing in Addis Ababa was that my first stop would be for coffee. I found myself at Tomoca, who have lots of stores throughout the capital and have been roasting coffee beans since 1953. Next stop on my coffee trail was Merkato Market, said to be the largest open-air market in Africa. Alongside the trade of, well, anything and everything, I sat down for bunna, the Ethiopian coffee ceremony, and picked up a bag of beans to take home, as well as a traditional clay coffee pot – the jebena – which still sits on my shelf to this day.
The ZAAF Collection store in Addis Ababa. Image credit: Zaaf Collection
Other top shopping spots in Addis Ababa include leather from Zaaf Collection, scarfs and jackets from homegrown brand Mafi Mafi, and sustainable, casual, breathable clothes from Fozia Endrias. And no trip to Addis would be complete without a visit to the National Museum of Ethiopia to explore the country’s past, including the 1974-discovered skeleton of a 3.2-million-year-old humanoid, named Lucy on discovery. The display is actually a detailed replica but Lucy’s real bones are (usually) preserved in the museum – although they are on loan and on display at the National Museum of Prague until the end of October, marking their first visit to Europe.
Fenika Cultural Centre in Addis Ababa. Image credit: Fendika
End a day in Addis with Fendika, who celebrate Ethiopia’s cultural heritage through music, dance, and food. Ethiopian dancer and choreographer Melaku Belay founded this space in the city’s Kazanchis neighborhood as a place to promote the 2,000-year-old Azmari music, but has been on quite the journey over recent years as much of the neighbourhood – Fendika included – was sadly demolished as it was cleared for development. But Belay fought back, finding a new residence at the Hyatt hotel, and is currently fundraising to build back in the original location. Wherever Fendika is when you visit, add it to the top of your Addis to-do list and expect an evening of traditional music and dance that’s bound to make your shoulder’s shake – best enjoyed with a glass of tej, a local honey wine.
Location: Harar
As day turns to night in Harar on Ethiopia’s eastern border, I find myself tumbling down pitch-black countryside lanes in a tuktuk. My eyes are wide open, scanning the horizon for hyena. Hundreds live on the outskirts of historic Harar in Ethiopia, and I’m on my way to meet the (human) family that feeds them.
Harar, Ethiopia
While this nighttime event has become somewhat of a touristy activity in Harar now (with viewers even invited to hand-feed them too), the practice stems back centuries, and the man in front of me when we arrive – the one with a stick of raw meat to feed the nocturnal creatures by hand – learnt how to do it from his father. It began as a ‘mutually beneficial’ relationship that is intended to stop the hyena from feeding on local livestock. As I stand in the dark, I’m very aware that while there are ten or so hyena feeding in front of me, there are hundreds more out in the fields that I can’t see.
Hyena feeding time on the outskirts of Harar, Ethiopia
Back in the colourful city of Harar, walls painted in all shades have built in ‘hyena gates’ – the wild mammals enter in the dead and dark of night scavenging any discarded leftovers, in turn, cleaning up the city’s waste. I stayed within the city walls at Rewda Harari guest house and, while not a high-end stay (think shared bathrooms), as a converted traditional Harari home, it is a true way to experience the city.
Location: Babile Camel Market
A day trip from Harar, Babile is located towards Ethiopia’s eastern border; the road to take you there continues into Somalia, a two-and-a-half hour drive away. While it’s possible to get here without the help of a tour guide (buses leave from Harar bus station) I probably wouldn’t recommend it, or, at the very least would suggest you jump on the bus accompanied by a tour guide. The road from Harar to Babile is beautiful, passing through mountains and driving through valleys. It’s also adventurous if you opt for the public bus which, as I quickly found out, gets busier at every stop. Before I knew it I was squeezing up as close as possible to the person beside me to allow more and more people in, but also piles of fruit and veg…and a few chickens. You’ll know you’ve arrived in Babile when everyone exits the bus.
Babile Camel Market, Babile, Ethiopia
One of the most action-packed moments in Babile is the weekly Babile Camel Market, which takes place on a Monday morning, when hundreds of camels arrive. They’re brought here by their owners, many of them coming from afar – from elsewhere in Ethiopia but also Djibouti and Somalia – to trade with potential buyers, and are split into sections by age and type, for example, breeding, racing and pack. If you watch carefully you’ll see sellers and buyers slink off into corners to negotiate deals.
Katie Silcox at Babile Camel Market, Ethiopia
– Book a Harar and/or Babile tour with Hailu Gashaw: hailu_harar@yahoo.com
FAQS about travelling to Ethiopia
Do I need a visa to visit Ethiopia?
When is the best time to travel to Ethiopia?
Is Ethiopia a safe country to visit?
What is the currency in Ethiopia?
Do I need vaccines to travel to Ethiopia?
Should I take any other health precautions while in Ethiopia?
Lead image: Simien Mountains National Park
We may earn a commission if you buy something from any affiliate links on our site.
Any Questions or Tips to add?