Cap Ferret is often described as “the Hamptons of France”, though anyone who’s actually been will tell you that feels a little off.
Where the Hamptons is all about being seen, Cap Ferret is about staying hidden (perhaps that’s why so many celebrities retreat here to enjoy summer in peace). While there are a handful of restaurants and bars, this isn’t the sort of place where you need to bag the hottest reservation or queue for a brand pop-up. Quite the opposite, in fact. Life here is slow.
People get around by bike (or Moke), and families retreat, barefoot, to their villas after a lazy day at the beach. It’s a place to disappear, reset, and soak up the quiet magic of coastal France. If you’re after a low-key escape, packed full of the freshest seafood and long beach walks, here’s our guide to enjoying the understated charm of Cap Ferret.
To Stay
Hôtel de la Plage
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Cap Ferret is fairly light on hotels, with many people choosing a private beach house in favour of a full-service hotel experience. That being said, the hotels that are here are tend to be very good. Take Hôtel de la Plage, which reopened in 2024 after a two-year renovation by Bordeaux restaurateurs Stessy Faber and Nicolas Lascombes. The hotel has been lovingly restored with a strong sense of place and purpose. There are just 12 rooms, each one breezy and light, with balconies that wrap around and catch the ocean breeze. Interiors by Atelier Delphine Carrère reflect the local landscape: pale woods, soft linens, and touches of traditional Basque red.
Hôtel des Dunes
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Hôtel des Dunes is the oldest hotel on the cape and something of a local institution, welcoming guests since 1969. In 2022, it was lovingly revived by Karine and Jean-Philippe Hecquet, a couple with deep ties to Cap Ferret and a background shaped by time spent surfing in California, Hawaii and the Hamptons. Their renovation (another Delphine Carrère project) has transformed the 13-room stay into a light-filled, surf-lodge-meets-beach-house hideaway. Located in the southwest of the cape, close to the lighthouse and just a short walk to the dunes, the hotel has a sunny, relaxed energy with white hammocks, raffia details, and a subtle 70s touch. It’s giving grown-up surf shack, in the best possible way.
To Eat
Chez Hortense
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Chez Hortense, perched at the very tip of the peninsula where the bassin meets the open sea, has been serving locals and loyal summer visitors since 1938 and is a staple of most returning visitors’ itineraries each year. The menu hasn’t changed much and each evening they serve fresh mussels gathered that morning cooked with jambon, a whole grilled turbot brought to your table and seasoned with lemon, and frites cooked to perfection. It’s rustic, always packed and wildly charming — the owners still do a circuit greeting every table (and catching up with summer regulars) each night. If there is a Cap Ferret “spot”, this is it. It’s probably the only place worth booking ahead, but out of season you might be in luck if you show up early.
La Cabane du Mimbeau
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Tucked behind the dunes near Mimbeau beach, this waterside cabane is the epitome of Ferret simplicity: whitewashed benches, oysters shucked to order, and crisp white wine on tap. The views across the basin to the Dune du Pilat are arresting, especially at dusk when the sky starts to turn pink.
Chez Boulan
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You’ve probably realised, Cap Ferret is all about seafood. Chez Boulan is another iconic family-run oyster cabane that dates back to 1920. The Boulan name is practically Cap Ferret royalty: the family have been cultivating oysters in the bassin for over a century. The restaurant is unfussy and beautiful. Sit under string lights, crammed together on wooden tables and enjoy a glut of oysters so fresh they need little more than a squeeze of lemon.
Mayzou
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If you want a break from seafood, this newcomer has quickly become popular amongst the Paris crowd. Mayzou serves up seasonal small plates, often with an Asian twist. Steaks are cooked in front of you in the open kitchen and ceviche is prepped from whatever is available that morning. They also pour a well-curated list of natural wines which is still a rarity this far down the coast.
Frédélian
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Over on the main drag you’ll find Frédélian, the always-busy café-cum-pastry shop that has been a staple of the area since the 60s. Sit in under the pastel umbrellas and enjoy your morning café crème or line up at the counter and grab spoils for your beach picnic. The pastries are pricey, but worth every penny. We particularly enjoy their take on the local speciality: canelés.
Shops
Jane de Boy
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Jane de Boy is one of Cap Ferret’s most fashionable exports. Filled (literally) to the brim with classic French girl brands including Isabel Marant and Vanessa Bruno, alongside their own branded line. The displays are artfully cluttered with rock’n’roll ephemera: jam-packed with Polaroids, postcards and other found items. It’s like walking into a stylish French woman’s home, whee you can take home everything you see.
Cap Ferret Market
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Held every morning in high season (and twice a week in the off), the Cap Ferret market is the heart of village life. Wander through for local cheese, charcuterie, and produce, as well as vintage French crockery, basque-striped cushions and tableclothes, and piles of French market bags. It’s the perfect place to pick up supplies for lunch or the evening’s BBQ.
Hoalen Ocean Store
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A cool, Breton-born surf brand that blends performance with timeless design. The Cap Ferret outpost of Hoalen stocks heavy cotton tees, thick wool jumpers, cosy sweatshirts (perfect for chilly evenings) and surfboards.
To Do
La Dune du Pilat
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La Dune du Pilat is Europe’s tallest sand dune and offers an otherworldly and rather unexpectedd shift in scenery. Rising dramatically between the Atlantic Ocean and the Landes forest, the dune stretches nearly three kilometres in length and reaches over 100 metres high. It’s easily reached from Cap Ferret by ferry across the bay or a short drive inland, and well worth carving out time for. Climb barefoot up the soft sand (it’s a workout), then take in the sweeping views. A visit at sunset, with a cold beer, might just be the highlight of your holiday.
Rent a Bike
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In Cap Ferret, everybody rents a bike — there are bike lanes running up and down the headlands — and many choose to avoid their car at all costs while here. We recommend renting an electric bike from Western Flyer, as it can be a little hilly, and exploring wherever the wind takes you.
Catch Waves
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Cap Ferret’s Atlantic side is all wild dunes, salty wind, and long beaches that seem to go on forever. The waves here are consistent and clean, making it a favourite with local surfers. Plage de L’Horizon is the main spot, with a scattering of surf schools offering lessons and board rentals right by the beach. Off-season, you might find you’ve got the whole stretch to yourself. This is a dream for seasoned surfers, but be cautious: the swell can be rough and unpredictable, and there are no lifeguards outside peak months. Best to paddle out with a buddy, or check in with the crew at Walrus Surf Shop before heading out solo.
Le Phare du Cap Ferret
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The red-and-white lighthouse is intrinsically linked to the iconography of the area. It rises high above the pines and dunes and offers a panoramic view of the cape, making it well worth the 258-step climb to the top.
Visit the Beaches
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There’s no shortage of beaches on Cap Ferret’s Atlantic side, and each one has its own distinct vibe. Plage de L’Horizon is the best known, with surf schools, lifeguards in summer, and a small beach shack for cold drinks. But wander a little further and you’ll find quieter stretches like Plage du Truc Vert, beloved for its untamed beauty and rolling dunes, or Plage de la Garonne, where pine forests fringe the sand and the crowds thin out. Find a sheltered spot, lay down your picnic blanket, and camp out for the day — pretending you’re in a chic French film all the while.
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